Save
Save chapter to my Bookmarks
Cite
Cite this chapter
Print this chapter
Share
Share a link to this chapter
Free
Index
Gloria Groom (Editor)
Description: Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity
Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity
Index
Author
Gloria Groom (Editor)
PublisherArt Institute of Chicago
Copyright© 2012 The Art Institute of Chicago
Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-23677
View chapters with similar subject tags
Chapter images ()
Loading image navigation...
No image index could be found for this publication.
Close this Panel
Show previous images Show next images
Index
All sections have been indexed, including the chronology, checklist, and appendixes.
Abbé de la Mésangère, 210
Abbéma, Louise, 80, 83
About, Edmond, 140, 206
Acrobats at the Cirque Fernando (Renoir, 1879), 182
Actualité, 69
advertising, 65, 68, 69, 75, 172, 199, 210, 213, 225–26
À la recherche du temps perdu (Proust), 54
À la Ville de Saint Denis, 213, 274
À la Ville de Sedan, 197
Albert, A., 68
Alexandra of Wales, 254
Almanach du commerce, 209
amazones, 40, 148, 175, 254, 256
Amicis, Edmondo de, 33, 172–73
Andrée, Ellen, 40, 40, 79, 81
Aquarelle-Mode, 68
architecture of Paris, 154–64, 186, 209
L’Argent (Zola), 169
Arnoux, Albert d’. See Bertall
Arrangement in Flesh Color and Black: Portrait of Theodore Duret (Whistler, 1883; cat. 69), 140, 142, 296
L’Art dans la parure et dans le vêtement (Blanc), 78, 186, 189, 190, 191, 195, 253, 267, 267
L’Art et la Mode, 43, 69, 82, 82, 83, 261–67, 276
L’Artiste, 42, 50, 239
The Artist’s Wife Reading (Bartholomé, 1883), 296
The Assault of the Shoe (Guérard, 1888; cats. 114, 115), 230, 231, 299
L’Assommoir (Zola), 244
Astruc, Jean, 139
Astruc, Zacharie, 50
Atget, Jean-Eugène-Auguste, 223, 299
At the Café (Caillebotte, 1880; cat. 74), 144–45, 155, 156, 294
At the Milliner’s (Degas, 1881; cat. 106), 222, 222, 223, 295
At the Milliner’s (Degas, 1882; cat. 101), 212, 212, 222, 296
At the Milliner’s (Degas, 1882; cat. 103), 215, 224, 296
At the Milliner’s (Degas, 1882–86), 218, 221
At the Milliner’s (Manet, 1881; cat. 104), 216, 295
At the Racetrack (Degas, 1868), 175, 176
“At the Salon, Evening” (Paty, 1879), 178
Au Bonheur des Dames (Zola), 49, 58, 60, 112–15, 127, 162–63, 173–74, 185, 209, 225, 226–27, 277
Au Corah des Indes, 197
Au Grand Marché Parisien, 213
“A une passante” (Baudelaire), 55, 57
Au Printemps, 213, 273, 297
“Au Printemps” (1884; cat. 102), 213, 297
Au Prophète, 140
Autumn (Stevens, 1876), 23
Autumn (Méry Laurent) (Manet, 1881), 80
Autumn Flowers (Stevens, 1867), 34, 34
balconies, 154, 155–61, 171–72
The Balcony (Manet, 1868–69; cat. 76), 38–39, 112, 120, 151, 155, 158, 161, 163, 285
A Ball (Béraud, 1878; cat. 90), 182, 182–83, 292
The Ball on Shipboard (Tissot, 1874; cat. 85), 175–76, 177, 288
The Balloon (Puvis de Chavannes, 1870), 237, 237
Ballu, Roger, 189
Balzac, Honoré de, 18–19, 30–31, 53–54, 58, 61
Banville, Théodore, 250
Barbey d’Aurevilly, 58
Baroche, Céleste, 206
Bartholomé, Albert: The Artist’s Wife Reading (1883), 296
In the Conservatory (1881; cat. 28), 69, 72, 73, 295
Folding fan (1876/95), 290
bas bleus, 234, 235, 255
Bashkirtseff, Marie, 77, 80
Baudelaire, Charles: “A une passante,” 55, 57
on color, 207
feminine ideal and, 57–58, 114
on Guys, 21, 54–55; on Ingres, 19–21; on Manet, 38
modernity and, 54–55, 57, 61, 87, 99, 135, 146, 189, 198, 207
“Le peintre de la vie moderne,” 54, 123, 233
on photography, 205–6; on portraiture, 107, 123, 207
social circle, 34
“Les yeux des pauvres,” 155
Bazille, Frédéric: Family Reunion (1867; cat. 2), 20, 21, 284
fashion and, 139–40; on Ingres, 19
as model, 75, 88, 88–89, 137, 139, 144
Monet and, 47–49, 50, 88, 88–89; Pierre-Auguste Renoir (1867; cat. 71), 143, 144, 284
Summer Scene (Bazille, 1869), 142, 142
Bazille and Camille (Monet, 1865; cat. 35), 88, 88–89, 92, 103, 282
Beaudrant, Madame, 210
Before the Mirror (Manet, 1876; cat. 58), 124, 127, 290
Before the Theater (Morisot, 1875; cat. 21), 62, 66, 289
Béraud, Jean: A Ball (1878; cat. 90), 182, 182–83, 292
The Church of Saint–Philippe–du–Roule, Paris (1877; cat. 79), 165, 166, 291
fashion and, 43, 82, 83
illustration work, 83, 175; Paris scenes, 165, 168
Paris Street Scene (1910), 154, 154
Place de l’Europe (1875), 165, 166
The Storefront of the Couturier Doucet (1899), 214, 217
“The Weighing of the Jockeys in front of the Grandstands” (1881), 175, 175
A Windy Day on the Pont des Arts (1880/81), 294
Workers Leaving the House of Paquin (1906), 214
Beresford from Demi-Monde I 56 (Disdéri, 1867), 303
Beresford from Demi-Monde I 56 (Disdéri, 1867; at. 96), 200, 284
Bergerat, Émile, 240
Bernhardt, Sarah, 80, 82
Bertall (Albert d’Arnoux), 78
“The Salon of 1866” (1866), 46, 47, 47
“Seasickness, by Manet” (1873), 238, 238
Berthe from Demi-Monde I 56 (Disdéri, 1862), 303
Berthe Morisot (Manet, 1873/74), 287
Berthe Morisot (Reutlinger, 1875; cat. 23), 66, 67, 289
Berthe Morisot in Black (Manet, 1872–74), 287
Berthe Morisot Seen from Behind (Reutlinger, 1875; cat. 24), 66, 67, 289
Bertin, Mademoiselle, 210
Bianchini, Charles, 82
Biard, François-Auguste, 82
Bigne, Valtesse de la, 78
Billot, Léon, 46
Blanc, Charles, 44, 135, 237
L’Art dans la parure et dans le vêtement, 78, 186, 189, 190, 191, 195, 253, 267, 267
Blanche, Jacques-Emile: Portrait of a Woman (1887; cat. 128), 258, 259, 298
bluestockings, 234, 235, 255
La Bodinière, 80
Boetzel, M., 51
Boggs, Jean, 254–55
Bois de Boulogne, 175
boleros, 42, 77, 77, 89, 148, 234, 235, 255
Bonaparte, Mathilde, 80, 198
Bonaparte, Napoléon, III, 169, 186, 204, 235, 248
Le Bon Marché, 68, 69, 77, 174, 189, 217, 217, 270, 272
Le Bon Marché (Vallotton, 1898), 217, 217
Bonnat, Léon, 80, 83
Bonnet, Claude-Joseph, 65
Bonnier, Louis, 162, 163
Bonvoisin, Maurice, 78
Boucher, François, 249
Boudin, Eugène, 43, 102
Boulevard de Strasbourg (Corsets) (Atget, 1912), 299
boulevards, 161–62, 178–82, 186
bourgeoisie. See middle-class
Bracquemond, Félix, 290
Brombert, Beth Archer, 124
Brooks, Peter, 126
Brown, John Lewis, 297
Burnaby, Frederick Gustavus, 141, 142
bustles, 203, 254, 258–60, 263, 265
Cabanel, Alexandre, 80, 83, 139
Café Guerbois, 36
Caillebotte, Gustave: At the Café (1880; cat. 74), 144–45, 155, 156, 294
fashion and, 185, 195
Floor Scrapers (1876), 166
House Painters (1876), 166
Interior, Woman at a Window (1880), 172, 173
Man on the Balcony (1880), 154, 161
modernity and, 186–88, 195
Paris Street; Rainy Day (1877; cat. 93), 154, 165, 166–68, 186–95, 187–88, 291
Paris Street; Rainy Day study (1877), 191, 195
The Pont de l’Europe (1876; cat. 80), 135, 154, 165–68, 167, 290
Portrait of a Man (1880; cat. 72), 134, 144, 145, 294
window dressing and, 223–24
Callias, Nina de, 41–42, 42, 57, 77, 78
Camille (Monet, 1866; cat. 16), 37, 44–51, 45, 46, 57, 94, 201, 235, 283
Camille, the Green Dress (Monet, 1866), 49, 50
Camille Monet on a Garden Bench (Monet, 1873; cat. 83), 171, 171, 172, 287
Carnegie, Mrs. Andrew, 258
Carolus-Duran, Charles, 34, 36–37, 43, 82, 83, 207
The Lady with the Glove (1869; cat. 19), 55–57, 56, 108, 235–36, 285
cartes de visite, 40, 197, 198–99, 200–01, 202, 302–03
Cassagne de Beaufort, René de, 18, 149, 151
Cassatt, Mary: Degas and, 41, 109, 218, 223, 253–54; fashion and, 40–41, 83, 174, 253–54
In the Loge (1878; cat. 78), 160, 161, 292
interior paintings, 172
as model, 40–41, 253–54, 254, 255
Portrait of the Artist (1878; cat. 14), 41, 292
Woman with a Pearl Necklace in a Loge (1879; cat. 88), 164, 180, 182, 293
Castagnary, Jules, 207, 243
Castiglione, Countess de, 58, 60, 204, 204
Catalogue Maison du Bon Marché, 75
Cavé, Albert, 144, 144
Cercle de l’Union Artistique, 149
Cézanne, Paul: The Conversation (1870–71; cat. 27), 69, 71, 285
fashion illustration and, 23, 69, 71
The Promenade (1871; cat. 25), 69, 70, 286
Challamel, Auguste, 195
Chaplin, Charles, 82, 251
Chapus, Eugène, 129
Charigot, Aline, 242, 243
Charpentier, Georges, 39, 40, 43, 239–40, 244, 247
Charpentier, Marguerite, 39, 43, 65, 223, 239, 244, 244–51, 245–46, 249, 292
Charpentier publishing house, 239, 244–47
Chassériau, Théodore, 21
Chesneau, Ernest, 207
La Chronique des Arts et de la Curiosité, 189
Chroniques parisiennes (Girardin), 210
The Church of Saint–Philippe–du–Roule, Paris (Béraud, 1877; cat. 79), 165, 166, 291
The Circle of the Rue Royale (Tissot, 1868; cat. 73), 139, 147, 150, 151, 285
The Circus Lover (Tissot, 1885; cat. 92), 184, 298
Clairin, Georges, 82
Claus, Fanny, 120, 158
Clayson, Hollis, 178, 223
Cognacq, Ernest, 43
Le Coin de Rue, 68
The Combat of the Kearsage and the Alabama (Manet, 1864), 247
La comédie humaine (Balzac), 30–31, 61
Compagnie lyonnaise, 69, 77
“Comparison of Haussmann’s and Bonnier’s Modified Street Envelopes” (Bonnier, 1903), 162
Confèrences faites dans l’hèmicycle de l’École Nationale des Beaux-Arts (1903), 162
Le Constitutionnel, 151
consumer culture, 21, 33, 49, 54, 75–77, 157, 172–74, 209–17
The Contrast (Vernier, 1870), 235, 237
The Conversation (Cézanne, 1870–71; cat. 27), 69, 71, 285
The Conversation (Desboutin, 1875/79), 289
Coppens de Fontenay, Eugène, 151, 151
“Le Coquet” (1869), 301
Coquiot, Gustave, 223
Cora Pearl from Demi-Monde I 56 (Disdéri, 1862), 303
Corot, Jean-Baptiste-Camille, 23
Lady in Blue (1874; cat. 6), 25, 37, 288
Corset cover (1880; cat. 62), 127, 131, 295
corsets, 63, 99, 124–33; Corset (1877; cat. 61), 126, 130, 291
Corset (Worcester, 1880; at. 60), 126, 130, 295
cosmetics, 39, 57, 195
Le costume au théâtre at à la ville, 82
Costume historique, 78
Cot, Pierre-Auguste, 251
Countess Castiglione with Her Son [Alba] (Pierson, 1863–65), 204, 204
Countess de Meyendorff [six views] and Her Mother, Baroness de Meyendorff [two views] (Disdéri, 1858), 200
The Couple (Renoir, 1868; at. 31), 75, 76, 285
Courbet, Gustave, 85, 88, 96, 206
Woman with a Parrot (1866), 31, 31
Young Ladies on the Banks of the Seine (1856–57; cat. 34), 22, 85, 86, 148, 280
crinolines, 30, 49–50, 57, 63, 89, 90, 100, 115, 199
criticism, 233–43
Croizette, Pauline, 56, 57, 235–36
La curée (Zola), 162, 169
The Dahlia Garden (Renoir), 247
Dance in the City (Renoir, 1883), 139, 142
Darras, Madame, 175
Dash, Countess, 233
Daudet, Alphonse, 244
Daumier, Honoré, 280
David, Jules, 214, 259, 298
De Amicis, Edmondo, 33, 172–73
Degas, Edgar, 23
articles, 223–24
At the Milliner’s (1881; cat. 106), 222, 222, 223, 295
At the Milliner’s (1882–86), 218, 221
At the Milliner’s (1882; cat. 101), 212, 212, 222, 296
At the Milliner’s (1882; cat. 103), 215, 224, 296
At the Racetrack (1868), 175, 176
Cassatt and, 41, 109, 218, 223, 253–54
Diego Martelli (Degas, 1879), 224
fashion and, 43, 174, 213, 218, 224–26, 231, 254–55; Gervex and, 133
Girl in Red (1866), 26, 26
James-Jacques-Joseph Tissot (1867/68), 149, 149
The Jet Earring (1876–77; cat. 117), 230, 231, 290
Little Dancer—Aged Fourteen (1880/82), 255
Little Milliner’s (1882), 222, 225
Ludovic Halévy and Albert Boulanger-Cavé Backstage at the Opera (1879), 144, 144
Madame Jeantaud at the Mirror (1875; cat. 100), 208, 211, 212, 289
Madame Théodore Gobillard (1869; cat. 47), 109–11, 110, 112, 285
Mademoiselle Marie Dihau (1867–68; cat. 116), 230, 231, 284
Mary Cassatt at the Louvre: The Etruscan Gallery (1879–80), 293
Mary Cassatt at the Louvre: The Paintings Gallery (1885; cat. 125), 41, 225, 253, 254, 297
The Milliners (1882), 221, 222
The Millinery Shop (1879/86; cat. 105), 218–22, 219–21, 223, 293
models, 38, 41, 109, 144, 159, 223, 231, 253, 255
Place de la Concorde (1875), 168–69, 169
Portraits at the Stock Exchange (1878–79; cat. 81), 144, 168, 168–69, 292
Portraits in a Frieze (1879; cat. 126), 41, 225, 254–55, 255, 293
racetrack scenes, 21, 176
social circle, 34, 36, 43, 146, 154
Sulking (1870; cat. 5), 24, 37, 286
Woman Bathing in a Shallow Tub (1886), 224
Woman Seated beside a Vase of Flowers (1865), 224
Woman with a Vase of Flowers (1872), 224
Woman with Binoculars (1875/76; cat. 84), 175, 176, 289
De la mode (Gautier), 57
Delessert, Édouard, 206, 206
Delorme, René, 178, 183
Demarsy, Jeanne, 231, 256–58, 258
Demorest, Madame, 68
Denis, Maurice, 261
De Nittis, Giuseppe, 82, 83, 154, 174, 175
department stores: art patronage and, 43
expositions des modes, 175; fashion houses and, 210, 212, 213
Impressionism and, 213–17; middle-class and, 49, 174, 213
Zola and, 49, 58, 173–74, 226. See also window displays
La Dernière Mode (1874), 41, 58, 58–61, 61, 78, 127, 231, 231, 275
Desboutin, Marcellin Gilbert, 289
Descubes de Lascaux, Olympe, 206
Detaille, Jean Baptiste Édouard, 290
De Waal, Edmund, 225
Diderot, Denis, 210
Diego Martelli (Degas, 1879), 224
Disdéri, André-Adolphe-Eugène, 200, 200, 201, 205, 206, 302–03
Beresford from Demi-Monde I 56 (1867; cat. 96), 200, 284
Dobigny, Emma, 23, 37, 223
Dollfus, Jean, 43
Doncieux, Camille: in Bazille and Camille, 88, 282
in Camille, 44–51, 45, 46, 283
in Camille Monet on a Garden Bench, 171
death, 185
in Luncheon on the Grass, 88–89, 89, 92, 102, 282
personal wardrobe, 47, 105
Renoir and, 119
in Women in the Garden, 101–02, 104
A Door Must Be Either Open or Closed (Tissot, 1876), 291
Doucet, Lucien, 290
Doucet fashion house, 212–13, 213
Drawers (1890; cat. 63), 127, 131, 299
dresses, 48
Ball gown (Worth, 1886; at. 89), 181, 298
Black dress (1863/65; cat. 46), 108–09, 109, 281
Blue walking dress (1873/74; cat. 95), 193, 288
Day dress (1862/64; cat. 36), 89, 90, 281
Day dress (1878/80; cat. 53), 117, 293
Day dress (1883/85; cat. 132), 264, 297
Day dress (Worth, 1886; at. 131), 258–60, 263, 298
day dresses, 265
Dinner dress (Pingat, 1878), 273
Dress (1864; cat. 42), 95, 281
Dress (1887; cat. 130), 258, 262, 299
Ensemble (1865/67; cat. 98), 201, 203, 282
Evening dress (Worth, 1882), 296
Promenade dress (1865/67), 104, 104
Promenade dress (1865/68; cat. 17), 48, 49, 282
promenade dresses, 40, 47, 89, 194–95, 254
Promenade ensemble (1865/67), 103, 103
renting, 47–49; sample dresses, 65, 75
Silk dress (1862), 271
Summer dress worn by Madame Bartholomé in the painting In the Conservatory (1880; cat. 29), 69, 73, 295
Summer ensemble (1865/67), 89–92, 91
Woman’s three-piece seaside ensemble (1864/67; cat. 37), 89, 91, 281
Women’s morning dress (1865; cat. 51), 115, 283
dress patterns, 37, 47, 49, 64–65, 68, 69, 75
Dreyfous, Maurice, 244, 247
Druick, Douglas, 223–24
Dubufe, Édouard, 206
“Du Dandysme” (Barbey d’Aurevilly), 58
Duluc sisters, 75, 213
Durand-Ruel, Paul, 43, 173, 224, 251, 260
Duranty, Edmond, 17, 23, 36–37, 104, 140–42, 169, 207
La nouvelle peinture, 195, 214, 248
Duret, Théodore, 87, 140, 142
Duval, Jeanne, 114, 115
Éditeur, Albert, 301
Édouard Manet (Fantin-Latour, 1867; at. 68), 138, 139, 240, 284
Édouard Manet (Fantin-Latour, 1867–80; cat. 121), 240, 240, 284
L’Elégance Parisienne, 68
La Elegancia, 20
Elegant Ladies (Guys, 1852–60), 54
Ellen Andrée (Nadar studio, 1879), 40
Empress Eugénie (Winterhalter, 1854), 19
Empress Eugénie and Her Ladies-in-Waiting at Compiègne (Delessert, 1856), 206, 206
Empress Eugénie in a Polka-Dot Dress (Mayer Frères et Pierson, 1861), 199, 199
Encyclopédie, ou Dictionnaire raisonné des sciences, des arts et des métiers, 210
entertainments, nighttime, 178–85, 213
Entretiens sur l’architecture (Viollet-le-Duc), 162, 162
L’Épâtouflant, salon du Havre, 49
Ephrussi, Charles, 225
Escudier, Marie, 265
Eugénie, Empress, 19, 30, 77, 80, 181, 198–99, 199, 234, 235, 248, 263
Eva Gonzalès at the Piano (Stevens, 1879; at. 11), 34–35, 36, 120, 294
Evening (Tissot, 1878; at. 91), 183, 183–85, 292
Evening cloak (Pingat, 1885–89), 276
“Exhibition of the Sociètè des Aquarellistes français at the Galerie Georges Petit” (1882), 173
fabrics: lace, 56, 248, 249
muslin, 96, 99, 104, 115, 119, 120
piqué, 89, 90
production of, 63–65; for promenade dresses, 65
satin, 127–29; silk, 65, 66–67, 108–9, 258–60
Family Reunion (Bazille, 1867; at. 2), 20, 21, 284
fans, 34, 35, 248, 290, 297
Fan: The Races at La Marche (Brown, 1885), 297
Fantin-Latour, Henri, 34
Édouard Manet (1867–80; cat. 121), 240, 240, 284
Édouard Manet (1867; cat. 68), 138, 139, 240, 284
Studio in the Batignolles (1870), 137, 139
fashion: character and, 233–43, 250–51; literature and, 41–43, 53–61; modernity and, 54–58, 92–96, 214–17; rules of, 261–67; society and, 18–19, 189–90; ubiquity of in painting, 17–18, 23–25
fashion houses, 65, 77, 210–13, 249
fashion illustration: Cézanne and, 23, 69, 71
industry, 65–69; men’s fashions and, 137, 139
photography and, 207
plates, 47, 68–69, 83, 103, 123, 199, 300–01
Renoir and, 250
Tissot and, 148, 149
fashion industry, 63–77, 78–80, 146, 185, 198
La Femme du Foyer Revue de la Mode Illustrée, 68
fetishization, 224–31
Le Figaro, 41, 54, 120, 175, 175, 201, 205
Figure of a Woman (Morisot, 1875; at. 21), 62, 66, 289
The Fisherman (Renoir), 247
“Five Women in Day and Evening Dresses around a Piano” (Illman Brothers Engr., 1876), 300
Flandrin, Jean-Hippolyte, 146
flaneurism, 165–68, 169, 172–73, 185, 189, 191, 206, 226
Flaubert, Gustave, 239, 244, 247, 248
Floor Scrapers (Caillebotte, 1876), 166
Flügel, John Carl, 190
Forain, Jean Louis, 290
Fournel, Victor, 207
France, Anatole, 53
Franco-Prussian War, 237–38
Frank Leslie’s Ladies Gazette, 68
Frederick Gustavus Burnaby (Tissot, 1870; at. 70), 141, 142, 286
Froidevaux, Gérald, 146
Fry, Roger, 248
fur, 195
Gabrielle from Demi-Monde II 57 (Disdéri, 1867), 303
Gabrielle; Gutierrez de Estrada from Demi-Monde II 57 (Disdéri, 1867), 303
Gagelin-Opigez, 75, 273
Gaillard, E., 259, 298
Galerie Sedelmeyer, 185
gardens, 104–05, 169–71
Gaudet, G., 49
Gauguin, Paul, 25, 225
Gautier, Théophile, 29, 57, 146, 148
Gavarni, Paul, 30, 31
Gazette des Beaux-Arts, 186
Gedo, Mary, 44
Geffroy, 223
Gérome, Jean-Léon, 21, 149, 290
Gervex, Henri: Rolla (1878; cat. 64), 132, 133, 292
Gilquin et Dupain Imprimerie, 301
Girardin, Madame de, 210
Girl in Red (Degas, 1866), 26, 26
Giron, Charles-Alexandre, 83, 83
Gleyre, Charles, 44
gloves, 56, 222, 235–36
Gobillard, Yves, 109–11, 110, 112, 159
Goeneutte, Norbert, 80, 82
Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von, 146
Gogh, Vincent van, 25
Golconde (Magritte, 1953), 190, 190
Goncourt, Edmond de, 17, 78, 204, 239, 244, 290
Goncourt, Jules de, 17, 78, 204
Gonzalès, Eva: The Harpist (1873/74), 231
Interior of the Milliner (1882–83), 214, 214
The Milliner (1877), 224, 225
as model, 34–35, 36
The Pink Slippers (1879/80; cat. 113), 228, 231, 293
shoes and, 227–31; Stevens and, 34–35
The White Slippers (1879/80; cat. 112), 227, 231, 293
Goubard, Abel, 259, 298
Goya, Francisco de, 124, 129
Grand Maison de Blanc, 210
grands magasins. See department stores
Les Grands Magasins (Marrey), 210
“Grands Magasins de la Paix,” 277
Grands Magasins du Louvre, 68, 174, 189, 210, 210, 271
“Grands Magasins du Louvre . . . Percale dress, exclusive” (1868), 65
Grevin, Alfred, 260
Guérard, Henri, 231
The Assault of the Shoe (1888; cats. 114, 115), 230, 231, 299
Guide sentimental de l’étranger dans Paris, 135
Guimard, Hector, 163
Guys, Constantin, 21, 54–55
Elegant Ladies (1852–60), 54
Reception (1847/48; cat. 18), 52, 55, 280
Three-Quarter Length Portrait of a Woman (1872/73), 287
Woman with a Muff (1860/64), 280
Halévy, Daniel, 218
Halévy, Ludovic, 144, 144
The Hare with Amber Eyes (de Waal), 225
The Harpist (Gonzalès, 1873/74), 231
hats, 191–94, 211, 218–27, 226, 231, 250
Bonnet (1879/84), 294
Bonnet (1882), 296
Bonnet (1883), 296
Bonnet (1887; cat. 110), 226, 298
Hat (1880), 295
Hat (1885/90; cat. 109), 226, 298
Hat (1887), 299
Hat (1887; cat. 111), 226, 299
Top hat (1875/1900; cat. 65), 136, 290
hat shops. See millinery shops
Hauser, Henriette, 124, 133
Haussmann, Georges-Eugène, 54, 153–54, 155, 161–63, 165, 186
“Haute Couture” (1751–72), 210
Havemeyer, Louisine, 253
Héloise from Demi-Monde II 57 (Disdéri, 1863), 302
Henriot, Henriette, 40
Herbert, Robert, 195
Her Majesty, the Parisienne (Stevens, 1880), 82, 82
Hervilly, Ernest d’, 250
Hesitation (Madame Morteaux ?) (Stevens, 1867), 284
Higonnet, Anne, 111, 112
Hirsch, Alphonse, 170
Histoire de la mode en France (Challamel), 195
Hollander, Anne, 124–26, 135, 190
horseracing, 174–76, 175
Hoschedé, Ernest, 43, 82
Hoschedé Blémont et Cie, 43
House Painters (Caillebotte, 1876), 166
Houssaye, Arsène, 33, 42–43, 50, 166–68
Howard’s End (Forster), 189
Hubbard, Marie, 122, 123
Humann (tailor), 137
Huysmans, Joris-Karl: art criticism, 38, 127–29, 186, 190
on cosmetics, 195
fashion and, 25, 251
modernity and, 51, 186, 214
“I Bet That Does Not Cost Him More Than Twenty-Five Cents a Meter” (Grevin, 1886), 260
Illman Brothers Engr., 300, 301
Illustrated London News, 213, 297
illustration. See fashion illustration L’Illustration, 155, 161, 163, 173, 214, 214, 238
L’Impressioniste, 189
Impressionist Exhibitions: First (1874), 39, 238–39; Second (1876), 37, 188, 218
Third (1877), 99, 165, 186, 239, 248
Fourth (1879), 168, 180, 182
Fifth (1880), 182
Sixth (1881), 255
“Les Impressionnistes et Édouard Manet” (Mallarmé), 108
Imprimerie Gilquin Fils: “Toilettes by Madame Fladry” (1871; cat. 26), 70, 286
Imprimerie Honoré Lefèvre, 259, 298
Imprimerie Lamoureux, 136, 285
Imprimerie Leroy, 301
Imprimerie Moine, 300
Imprimerie P. Lacourière-Falconer, 265, 297
industrial art and design, 63–69
Ingres, Jean-Auguste-Dominique, 19–21, 146, 148
Madame Moitessier (1851), 19, 19
Monsieur Bertin (1832), 21
In Search of Lost Time (Proust), 54
Interior (Morisot, 1872; at. 48), 109, 111, 111–12, 123, 237–38, 287
Interior, Woman at a Window (Caillebotte, 1880), 172, 173
“Interior of Saint Joseph Shops” (Lafaye, 1845), 214, 214
Interior of the Milliner (Gonzalès, 1882–83), 214, 214
In the Conservatory (Bartholomé, 1881; at. 28), 69, 72, 295
In the Grandstands (De Nittis, 1881), 174
In the Loge (Cassatt, 1878; at. 78), 160, 161, 292
The Invaded City of Paris Entrusts Its Appeal to France to the Air (Puvis de Chavannes, 1870), 237, 237
Isabelle Lemonnier (Manet, 1880), 194
Iskin, Ruth, 21, 37, 224, 226
It’s Amazing! I’ve Had Four of Just These Sizes in My Life. . . (Daumier, 1840), 280
Jacquemont, Victor, 144
James-Jacques-Joseph Tissot (Degas, 1867/68), 149, 149
Japonisme, 42, 248
Japonisme (Somm, 1881), 295
Jay, Marie-Louise, 43
Jeanne (model for Renoir), 98, 99
Jeanne Samary (Renoir, 1877), 247
Jeanne: Spring (Manet, 1882), 296
The Jet Earring (Degas, 1876–77; cat. 117), 230, 231, 290
Jonghe, Gustave de, 43
Le Journal Amusant, 47, 205, 214, 260
Le Journal des Dames et des Demoiselles, 256
Le Journal des Dames et des Modes, 210
Journal des Demoiselles, 69, 69, 179
Le Journal des Demoiselles et Petit Courrier des Dames Réunis, 265
Journal des Modes, 194
Journal des Modes d’Hommes, 137
Journal des Modes Spécial Pour Couturières, 301
Journal des Modistes et Lingères, 68
Journal des Tailleurs, 190–91
journals and journalism, 41–43, 53, 58–61, 68, 75, 82–83, 233–43
July: Specimen of a Portrait (Tissot, 1878; at. 52), 69, 116, 118–19, 293
kits, dressmaking, 64–65
Laas, H., 276
Lacauchie, Alexandre, 69, 69
lace, 56, 248, 249
Lacourière, Paul, 69
Lady in Blue (Corot, 1874; at. 6), 25, 37, 288
Lady with Fan (Manet, 1862; at. 50), 106, 114, 115, 281
Lady with Fans (Portrait of Nina de Callias) (Manet, 1873; at. 15), 41, 42, 57, 287
The Lady with the Glove (Carolus-Duran, 1869; at. 19), 55–57, 56, 108, 235–36, 285
Lafaye, Prosper, 214, 214
Lagrange, Léon de, 149
Lambert, Eugène, 290
Lamiche Fils et Augé, 205
Lamothe, Louis, 146
Laprade, Victor de, 206
Lateral Cross Section of 72, boulevard de Sébastopol (Rolland, 1860), 154–55, 155
“The Latest Fashions. . .”, (1886; cat. 129), 259, 298
“The Latest French Fashions” (1871; cat. 13), 39, 287
Laurent, Méry, 77, 78, 80, 214, 231
Leaving the Confessional (Tissot, 1865), 148, 149
Lebeuf, Mademoiselle, 210
Lecadre, Marie-Jeanne, 44
La légende de Saint-Julien l’hospitalier (Flaubert), 247
Lehmann, Ulrich, 43
leisure wear, 64, 89–92, 96, 142
Leloir, Héloïse: “Two Women Outdoors” (1865/66; cat. 3), 20, 282
Leloir, Louis, 82
Lemaire, Madeleine, 80, 82
Lemonnier, Camille, 78
Lemonnier, Isabelle, 40, 194
Leray, Charles, 249
Lerolle, Henry: The Organ Rehearsal (1885), 260–61, 265
The Rehearsal in the Choir Loft (1885; cat. 133), 260–61, 265, 297
Lévy, Adolphe, 154–55
light, electric, 178–82, 183, 213
light in Impressionist works, 108, 119, 123, 213
Lipton, Eunice, 223
Lise on the Banks of the Seine—Bather with Griffon Terrier (Renoir, 1870; at. 43), 96, 97, 286
Lise—The Woman with the Umbrella (Renoir, 1867; at. 40), 37, 51, 94, 96, 115, 235, 284
literature and fashion, 41–43, 53–61
lithography, 68, 69
Little Dancer—Aged Fourteen (Degas, 1880/82), 255
Little Milliners (Degas, 1882), 222, 225
The Loge (Renoir, 1874; at 12), 32, 38, 39–40, 43, 107, 135, 182, 238–39, 288
Lopez, Nini, 32, 35, 38, 39–40, 40, 120, 121
Lorette in Dressing Gown with a Parrot (Gavarni, 1842), 30, 31
Louis Philippe, King, 18, 19
Loyer, François, 155
Loyrette, Henri, 21
Ludovic Halévy and Albert Boulanger-Cavé Backstage at the Opera (Degas, 1879), 144, 144
The Lunch: Decorative Panel (Monet, 1874), 171, 172
Luncheon on the Grass (Manet, 1863), 85–87, 87, 96, 151
Luncheon on the Grass (Monet, 1865–66; cats. 38, 39), 44, 50, 87–96, 92–93, 100, 102, 144, 282
Luncheon on the Grass (Study) (Monet, 1865/66), 88, 89, 92
MacMahon, Patrice de, 237
Madame Berthier (Disdéri, 1862), 204–05, 205
Madame Demorest’s Mirror of Fashions, 68
Madame Édouard Manet on a Blue Sofa (Manet, 1874; at. 54), 118, 120, 288
Madame Georges Charpentier and Her Children (Renoir, 1878; at. 124), 39, 65, 239–40, 244–51, 245–46, 249, 292
Madame Jeantaud at the Mirror (Degas, 1875; at. 100), 208, 211, 212, 289
Madame Louis Joachim Gaudibert (Monet, 1868; at. 97), 46, 49, 201, 202, 285
Madame Moitessier (Ingres, 1851), 19, 19
Madame Surrivan from Demi-Monde II 57 (Disdéri, 1866), 303
Madame Théodore Gobillard (Degas, 1869; at. 47), 109–11, 110, 112, 285
Mademoiselle Marie Dihau (Degas, 1867–68; cat. 116), 230, 231, 284
Mademoiselle V in the Costume of an Espada (Manet, 1862), 21
Madrazo, Federico de, 43, 82, 83
Magasin des Demoiselles, 233
magasins, 210
Magasins Saint-Joseph, 214
Magritte, René, 190, 190
La maison du chat-qui-pelote (Balzac), 53–54
Maisons les plus remarquables de Paris (Lévy), 154–55, 155
Mallarmé, Stéphane, 41–42, 43, 54, 58–61, 59, 78, 127, 224
“Les Impressionnistes et Édouard Manet,” 108; “The Virgil” (1874), 231, 231
Manet, Édouard: At the Milliner’s (1881; cat. 104), 216, 295
Autumn (Méry Laurent) (1881), 80
The Balcony (1868–69; cat. 76), 38–39, 112, 120, 151, 155, 158, 161, 163, 285
Baudelaire and, 21
Before the Mirror (1876; cat. 58), 124, 127, 290
Berthe Morisot (1873/74), 287
Berthe Morisot in Black (1872–74), 287
The Combat of the Kearsage and the Alabama (1864), 247
fashion and, 40, 43, 83, 139, 185, 214, 224, 240–43; feminine ideal and, 57
Ingres and, 21
Isabelle Lemonnier (1880), 194
Jeanne: Spring (1882), 296
Lady with Fan (1862; cat. 50), 106, 114, 115, 281
Lady with Fans (Portrait of Nina de Callias) (1873; cat. 15), 41, 42, 57, 287
Luncheon on the Grass (1863), 85–87, 87, 96, 151
Madame Édouard Manet on a Blue Sofa (1874; cat. 54), 118, 120, 288
Mademoiselle V in the Costume of an Espada (1862), 21
Mallarmé and, 41–42, 43, 59
models, 40, 41–42, 57, 112, 124, 133, 161, 256 (See also Meurent, Victorine; Morisot, Berthe); Music in the Tuileries Gardens (1862), 21, 169, 169
Nana (1877; cat. 57), 124–33, 125–26, 291
Olympia (1863), 120, 124, 133, 151
The Parisienne (1875; cat. 33), 40, 78–83, 79, 81, 289
portraits of, 137, 138, 139, 144, 240
prototypes and, 21
The Races at Longchamp (1866), 175, 176
The Railway (1873; cat. 82), 169–70, 170, 287
Reading (1865; cat. 49), 112–18, 113, 172, 282
Repose (1871; cat. 120), 112, 236, 238, 286
social circle, 34, 36, 40, 43, 59, 214
Spring (Jeanne) (1881), 256–58, 258
Stéphane Mallarmé (1876), 59, 59
Stevens and, 34
Street Singer (1862), 26
La Vie Moderne exhibition, 240
Woman Fastening Her Garter (1878–79), 129, 129
Woman Reading (1879/80; cat. 122), 170–71, 232, 241, 243, 293
Young Lady in 1866 (1866; cat. 9), 21, 26–31, 27, 29, 38, 120, 283
Young Woman in a Round Hat (1877/79; cat. 127), 175, 256, 257, 291
Zola and, 235
Manet, Suzanne, 112–18, 113, 118, 120
Man on a Staircase (Edmond Renoir) (Renoir, 1876), 247, 247–48
Man on the Balcony (Caillebotte, 1880), 154, 161
Mantz, Paul, 29
Manuel de l’homme et de la femme comme il faut (Chapus), 129
Marcel, Eugène, 201
Marcelin, 201, 201
Marchal, Charles, 235
Marix brothers, 65
The Marquis and Marquise de Miramon and Their Children (Tissot, 1865; at. 1), 16, 18, 149, 282
Mary Cassatt at the Louvre: The Etruscan Gallery (Degas, 1879–80), 293
Mary Cassatt at the Louvre: The Paintings Gallery (Degas, 1885; at. 125), 41, 225, 253, 254, 297
Matisse, Henri, 146
Maugas, Madame, 77, 274
Maupassant, Guy de, 185, 239, 247
Mavourneen (Tissot, 1876), 290
May, Ernest, 144, 168, 169
Mayer, Ernest, 197
Mayer Frères et Pierson, 199, 199, 204
“Measurements to be given . . .” (1869), 75
Mémoires d’une modiste écrits pat elle-même, 223
men’s fashions, 135–45, 168, 169, 183, 189–94, 207
Frock coat and trousers (1876; cat. 94), 192, 291
Suit (1867/68; cat. 66), 136, 284
Mesnil, Léonie, 82
Mesplès, Eugène, 82
Metternich, Pauline de, 77, 198
Meurent, Victorine, 26, 29, 30, 37–38, 87, 96, 120, 133, 170, 170
middle-class: access to fashion, 18, 47, 185, 198–99, 213
art patronage, 18–19, 21, 34, 44
department stores and, 49, 174, 213
men’s fashion, 189–90
military uniforms, 141, 142
Mille, Émile, 68
The Milliner (Gonzalès, 1877), 224, 225
The Milliner (Renoir, 1877; at. 107), 223, 224, 291
The Milliner (Vallotton, 1894), 299
The Milliners (Degas, 1882), 221, 222
The Millinery Shop (Degas, 1879/86; cat. 105), 218–22, 219–21, 223, 293
millinery shops, 211, 212, 213–14, 218–26, 231
La Mode de Style, 68, 83
La Mode Illustrée, 41, 69, 123, 171, 247, 248, 249
plates, 70, 71, 91, 120, 226, 260, 286, 301
models, 37–41, 78–80, 112. See also names of particular models
La Mode Miniature, 275
Les Modes de Paris, 300
Modes Européennes, 301
Les Modes Parisiennes, 194, 234, 235, 301
La Monde illustrée, 155, 161, 161, 274
Monet, Camille. See Doncieux, Camille
Monet, Claude: Bazille and Camille (1865; cat. 35), 88, 88–89, 92, 103, 282
Camille (1866; cat. 16), 37, 44–51, 45, 46, 57, 94, 201, 235, 283
Camille, the Green Dress (1866), 49, 50
Camille Monet on a Garden Bench (1873; cat. 83), 171, 171, 172, 287
fashion and, 35–36, 43, 46, 47–51, 102–5, 185
The Lunch: Decorative Panel (1874), 171, 172
Luncheon on the Grass (1865–66; cats. 38, 39), 44, 50, 87–96, 92–93, 100, 102, 144, 282
Luncheon on the Grass (Study) (1865/66), 88, 89, 92
Madame Louis Joachim Gaudibert (1868; cat. 97), 46, 49, 201, 202, 285
models, 37, 44, 80, 102, 144, 201
modernism and, 57, 88–89, 100, 104
portraits of, 139, 144
social circle, 36, 42, 60
Study of a Figure Outdoors (Facing Right) (1886; cat. 135), 261, 266, 298
Turkeys (1877), 275
Woman with a Parasol–Madame Monet and Her Son (1875), 261
Women in the Garden (1866; cat. 45), 21, 47, 50, 100–05, 101–02, 283
Le Moniteur de la Mode, 58, 259
Monnin, 300
Monsieur and Madame Musard from Demi-Monde II 57 (Disdéri, 1860), 302
Monsieur Bertin (Ingres, 1832), 21
Montaigne, Michel de, 126
Montaut, Henri de, 83, 129
Montijo, Eugénie de. See Eugénie, Empress Moore, George, 139
Morisot, Berthe: fashion and, 66, 77, 83, 174, 238
Figure of a Woman (1875; cat. 21), 62, 66, 289
Interior (1872; cat. 48), 109, 111, 111–12, 123, 237–38, 287
as model, 34, 38–39, 67, 112, 120, 158, 236, 238
On the Balcony (1871/72), 286
On the Balcony (1872; cat. 77), 112, 155–61, 159, 171–72, 287
portraits by, 108–9, 111–12, 237–38
The Sisters (1869; cat. 10), 34, 35, 285
social circle, 34, 43
Woman at Her Toilette (1875/80; cat. 59), 124, 128, 288
Woman with a Fan. Portrait of Madame Marie Hubbard (1874; cat. 56), 122, 123, 288
Young Woman in a Ball Gown (1879; cat. 86), 179, 182, 294
Young Woman Seated on a Sofa (1879), 294
Mortemart de Boisse, Baron, 137, 138–39
Music in the Tuileries Gardens (Manet, 1862), 21, 169, 169
muslin, white, 96, 99, 104, 119, 120
Nadar, Félix, 40, 197, 198
Nana (Manet, 1877; at. 57), 124–33, 125–26, 291
Nana (Zola), 58, 127
nature, 104–05, 169–71
Nead, Lydia, 133
Neufville, Étienne de, 30, 31
“New Fountain on the Boulevard de Sébastopol” (Thorigny, 1860), 161, 161
New Painting. See nouvelle peinture
“The New Temptation of Saint Anthony,” 133
Newton, Kathleen, 116, 118–19, 183, 183
New York Academy of Music, 64
Nittis, Giuseppe de. See De Nittis, Giuseppe
Nodier (flaneur), 173
Noël, Laure, 301
Notes sur Paris (Taine), 21–23
Notre ennemi le luxe (Nadault de Buffon), 233
Nouvelle Athènes, 36, 139, 243
nouvelle peinture, 17, 36–37, 85–87, 96, 99, 140, 188, 247
La nouvelle peinture (Duranty), 195, 214, 248
Nude Maja (Goya, 1797/1800), 124, 129
nudes, 124–26, 133
Observer, 119
L’Oeuvre (Zola), 144
Oldoini, Virginia, 58, 60, 204, 204
Olympia (Manet, 1863), 120, 124, 133, 151
“On Dandyism” (Barbey d’Aurevilly), 58
On the Balcony (Morisot, 1871/72), 286
On the Balcony (Morisot, 1872; at. 77), 112, 155–61, 159, 171–72, 287
Opéra Garnier, 163, 183, 185
Opigez-Gagelin & Cie, 75, 273
The Organ Rehearsal (Lerolle, 1885), 260–61, 265
Osborne, William Church, 251
Une Page d’amour (Zola), 247, 248
La Paix, 213
Le Palais de la Nouveauté, 276
parasols: Parasol (1860/69), 281
Parasol (1860/69; cat. 41), 95, 281
Paris-guide, 51
The Parisienne (Giron, 1883), 83, 83
The Parisienne (Manet, 1875; at. 33), 40, 78–83, 79, 81, 289
The Parisienne (Renoir, 1874; at. 32), 40, 78, 80, 238–39, 288
Parisienne prototype: Baudelaire and, 57–58; fashion industry and, 33, 185
Franco-Prussian War and, 237, 239
Houssaye on, 33, 50–51; Manet and, 40, 78–83; modernity and, 21, 33–34, 43
Monet and, 43, 50–51; Renoir and, 40, 78, 96, 238–39; Stevens and, 40, 43
Tissot and, 185
“Parisien Type: Bal Mabile” (Rops, 1867), 50, 51, 78
Paris Messenger, 75
Paris-Mode, 68
Paris Sphinx (Stevens, 1875/77), 78
Paris Street; Rainy Day (Caillebotte, 1877; at. 93), 154, 165, 166–68, 186–95, 187–88, 291
Paris Street; Rainy Day study (Caillebotte, 1877), 191, 195
Paris Street Scene (Béraud, 1910), 154, 154
parks, 104–05, 169–71
patterns. See dress patterns Patti, Adelina, 82
Paty, Léon Du, 178
Paul Charpentier (Renoir, 1878), 247
Le Pays, 238
peignoirs, 26–29, 28, 38, 107, 120–23, 121
Marquise de Miramon’s peignoir (1866; cat. 8), 28, 283
“Le peintre de la vie moderne” (Baudelaire), 54, 123, 233
Penelope (Marchal, 1868), 235
La père Goriot (Balzac), 30–31
Perrot, Louis-Alfred, 154
Perrot, Philippe, 189, 194
Peterson’s Magazine, 234, 300, 301
Petit, Georges, 43, 80, 173, 173, 251
Petit Courrier des Dames 86, 47
Petite maison (Bastide), 162
Le Petit Journal, 189
Petit Journal pour Rire, 201, 201
petits costumes, 89–92, 103
Peyronny, Viscountess de, 82
“Photographic Fantasies” (Marcelin, 1858), 201, 201
photography, 188, 197–207
Phryne (Marchal, 1868), 235
Physiologie de la femme (Neufville), 30, 31
Pierre-Auguste Renoir (Bazille, 1867; at. 71), 143, 144, 284
Pierson, Pierre Louis: Countess Castiglione with Her Son [Alba] (Pierson, 1863–65), 204, 204
Woman Leaning on Her Elbow (Pierson, 1856/57; cat. 20), 58, 60, 280
The Pigeon (Puvis de Chavannes, 1871), 237
Pilatte, Charles, 68, 75
Pille, Henri, 82
Pingat, Émile, 273, 276
The Pink Slippers (Gonzalès, 1879/80; cat. 113), 228, 231, 293
piqué, 89, 90
Place de la Concorde (Degas, 1875), 168–69, 169
“Place de l’Étoile” (Wibaille, 1857), 161, 161
Place de l’Europe (Béraud, 1875), 165, 166
Planat, Émile-Marcelin-Isidore, 201, 201
plein air painting, 85–99, 100, 104–5, 142, 171
The Pont de l’Europe (Caillebotte, 1876; at. 80), 135, 154, 165–68, 167, 290
Pontillon, Edma, 237–38
Portrait (Tissot, 1876; at. 30), 69, 74, 119, 291
“The Portrait at This Year’s Salon” (Regamey, 1866), 44, 46–47
Portrait of a Man (Caillebotte, 1880; at. 72), 134, 144, 145, 294
Portrait of a Woman (Blanche, 1887; at. 128), 258, 259, 298
Portrait of Eugène Coppens de Fontenay (Tissot, 1867), 151, 151
Portrait of Madame Claude Monet (Renoir, 1872), 119, 120, 123
Portrait of Madame Georges Hartmann (Renoir, 1874), 248
Portrait of Madame Henri Wallet (Blanche, 1887; at. 128), 258, 259, 298
Portrait of Mademoiselle L. L. (Tissot, 1864; at. 118), 77, 148–49, 234, 235, 281
Portrait of Miss L. . . (Tissot, 1876), 291
Portrait of Nini (Renoir, 1874), 39–40, 40
Portrait of the Artist (Cassatt, 1878; at. 14), 41, 292
Portrait of the Marquise de Miramon, née Thérèse Feuillant (Tissot, 1866; at. 7), 26–29, 28, 120, 283
Portraits at the Stock Exchange (Degas, 1878–79; cat. 81), 144, 168, 168–69, 292
Portraits in a Frieze (Degas, 1879; at. 126), 41, 225, 254–55, 255, 293
Portraits in a Park (Tissot, 1863; at. 4), 22, 115, 148, 281
Pot-Bouille (Zola), 17
Pourtalès, Mélanie de, 77
Préval, Émile, 301
Prévost, Gabriel, 186, 195
Le Printemps, 75
Le Progrès: Modes de Paris pour l’Académie Européene des Modes (1868), 136
The Promenade (Cézanne, 1871; at. 25), 69, 70, 286
The Promenade (Renoir, 1870), 96, 99
promenade dresses. See under dresses
Proudhon, P. J., 206
Proust, Antonin, 80, 224–25
Proust, Marcel, 54, 248, 251
Prouvaire, Jean, 238, 239
The Psychology of Clothes (Flügel), 190
Puvis de Chavannes, Pierre, 34, 237, 237
The Queen, The Lady’s Newspaper and Court Chronicle, 39
Race at the Bois de Boulogne (De Nittis, 1881), 174, 175
The Races at Longchamp (Manet, 1866), 175, 176
Racinet, Auguste, 78
racing, 174–76, 175
Le Radical, 188, 189
The Railway (Manet, 1873; at. 82), 169–70, 170, 287
Reading (Manet, 1865; at. 49), 112–18, 113, 172, 282
ready-made garments, 49, 64–65, 76, 213, 227, 255
Reception (Guys, 1847/48; cat. 18), 52, 55, 280
Regamey, Félix, 44, 46–47
The Rehearsal in the Choir Loft (Lerolle, 1885; at. 133), 260–61, 265, 297
Rennville, Viscountess de, 206
Renoir, Edmond, 247, 248
Renoir, Pierre-Auguste: Acrobats at the Cirque Fernando (Francisca and Angelina Wartenberg) (1879), 182
Charpentier family and, 239–40, 244–47
The Couple (1868; cat. 31), 75, 76, 285
The Dahlia Garden, 247
Dance in the City (1883), 139, 142; fashion and, 35–36, 39–40, 43, 83, 185, 223, 248–50
The Fisherman, 247
Jeanne Samary (1877), 247
Lise on the Banks of the Seine—Bather with Griffon Terrier (1870; cat. 43), 96, 97, 286
Lise—The Woman with the Umbrella (1867; cat. 40), 37, 51, 94, 96, 115, 235, 284
The Loge (1874; cat 12), 32, 38, 39–40, 43, 107, 135, 182, 238–39, 288
Madame Georges Charpentier and Her Children (1878; cat. 124), 39, 65, 239–40, 244–51, 245–46, 249, 292
Man on a Staircase (Edmond Renoir) (1876), 247, 247–48
The Milliner (1877; cat. 107), 223, 224, 291
models, 35, 37, 39–40, 75, 80, 96, 99, 144, 243, 248
modernity and, 96
The Parisienne (1874; cat. 32), 40, 78, 80, 238–39, 288
Paul Charpentier (1878), 247
Portrait of Madame Claude Monet (1872), 119, 120, 123
Portrait of Madame Georges Hartmann (1874), 248
Portrait of Nini (1874), 39–40, 40
portraits of, 139, 143, 144
The Promenade (1870), 96, 99
Riding in the Bois de Boulogne (1873), 175
social circle, 36, 60, 144, 185
The Swing (1876; cat. 44), 98, 99, 290
The Umbrellas (1881/85), 260, 261
Woman at the Piano (1875/76; cat 55), 35, 120, 121, 289
Woman’s Head, 247
Woman with a Fan (1876), 247, 247–48
Woman with Parrot (1871; cat 22), 65, 66, 248, 286
Young Woman Reading an Illustrated Journal (1880; cat 123), 242, 243, 294
Repose (Manet, 1871; at. 120), 112, 236, 238, 286
Reutlinger, Charles: Berthe Morisot (1875; cat. 23), 66, 67, 289
Berthe Morisot Seen from Behind (1875; cat. 24), 66, 67, 289
Ribeiro, Aileen, 19–21, 135
Riding in the Bois de Boulogne (Renoir, 1873), 175
Riez, Hermentine du, 75
Rimsky-Korsakow, Varvara, 197, 198
Le Rire, 133
Rivière, Georges, 189
Rochegrosse, Georges, 82
Rohault de Fleury, Charles, 155
Rolla (Gervex, 1878; at. 64), 132, 133, 292
Rolland, François, 154–55, 155
Rops, Félicien, 75, 78, 80, 214–17; “Parisien Type: Bal Mabile” (1867), 50, 51, 78
Rosenthal, Léon, 18
Roskill, Mark, 47
The Rubens Hat (Tissot, 1875), 290
Salon de la Mode, Moniteur Illustré de la Famille, 68
Salon des Refusés (1863), 85, 148
Salon exhibitions: 1845, 214
1846, 207
1861, 207
1863, 207
1864, 22
1866, 44–46, 87, 149
1867, 151, 240
1868, 17, 20, 29, 94, 235
1869, 38, 55, 235
1872, 207, 237–38; 1873, 175, 236, 238
1877, 124, 165
1878, 178, 182
1879, 51, 239, 247
1885, 261
criticism of, 233–43; diversity of works, 17–18
“The Salon of 1866” (Bertall, 1866), 46, 47, 47
La Samaritaine, 43
satin, 127–29
Sault, Léon, 68, 75
Sauvage, Henri, 163, 163
Scholderer, Otto, 139
“Seasickness, by Manet” (Bertall, 1873), 238, 238
Seaside (Tissot, 1878), 69, 116, 119
Seigneur, Maurice du, 256
Seurat, Georges: Still Life with Hat, Umbrella, and Clothes on a Chair (1887), 298
Study for “A Sunday on La Grande Jatte” (1884; cat. 136), 267, 267–69, 297
A Sunday on La Grande Jatte–1884 (1884–86; cat. 137), 185, 267–69, 268, 278, 297
Woman Walking with a Parasol (1884), 297
“Seven Men and a Woman in Day Dress and Outerwear” (Gilquin et Dupain, 1861), 301
Shawl (1865; cat. 99), 201, 203, 282
shoes, 227–31
The Shop Girl (Tissot, 1883–85; cat. 75), 152, 155, 157, 214, 296
shopgirls, 157, 222–23
shopping, 172–74, 209–17, 218
silhouettes, 63, 126, 140, 144–45, 253–69
silk, 65, 66–67, 108–9, 258–60
Silvestre, Théophile, 238
Simmel, Georg, 189
Simon, Marie, 135, 148, 214
Simons, Baudrais and Co., 75
Sisley, Alfred, 43, 144
The Sisters (Morisot, 1869; at. 10), 34, 35, 285
“Six Hats” (Toudouze, 1880; at. 108), 226, 226, 294
“Six Men, a Woman, and a Boy in a Day Dress” (Imprimerie Lamoureux, 1868), 136, 285
“Six Women at the Beach” (Illman Brothers Engr., 1870), 301
Somm, Henry, 295
Spring (Jeanne) (Manet, 1881), 256–58, 258
Steinbach Koechlin & Cie., 64
Stéphane Mallarmé (Manet, 1876), 59, 59
stereoscopic views, 205
Stevens, Alfred: Autumn (1876), 23
Autumn Flowers (1867), 34, 34
Eva Gonzalès at the Piano (1879; cat. 11), 34–35, 36, 120, 294
fashion and, 34, 35, 43, 80, 174, 217, 251
Her Majesty, the Parisienne (1880), 82, 82
Hesitation (Madame Morteaux ?) (1867), 284
models, 34–35, 37, 38
modernity and, 36–37, 217
Paris Sphinx (1875/77), 78
social circle, 34, 36, 43, 78, 82
Tissot and, 146
Woman in Pink (1866; cat. 11), 37, 38
Stewart, Alexander Turney, 65
Still Life with Hat, Umbrella, and Clothes on a Chair (Seurat, 1887), 298
Stock (G. Gaudet), 49
The Storefront of the Couturier Doucet (Béraud, 1899), 214, 217
Straus, Madame Émile, 218, 223
Street Singer (Manet, 1862), 26
Studio in the Batignolles (Fantin-Latour, 1870), 137, 139
Study for “A Sunday on La Grande Jatte” (Seurat, 1884; at. 136), 267, 267–69, 297
Study of a Figure Outdoors (Facing Right) (Monet, 1886; at. 135), 261, 266, 298
suits. See men’s fashions
Sulking (Degas, 1870; at. 5), 24, 37, 286
Summer Scene (Bazille, 1869), 142, 142
A Sunday on La Grande Jatte–1884 (Seurat, 1884–86; cat. 137), 185, 267–69, 268, 278, 297
The Swing (Renoir, 1876; at. 44), 98, 99, 290
Syène, F.-C. de, 239
Symbolism, 54, 61
Symphony in White, No. 1: The White Girl (Whistler, 1862), 26, 26, 29, 148
Taine, Hippolyte, 21–23
Le Tapis Rouge, 68
Tarif, 68
The Terrace of the Villa Branca (Bracquemond, 1876), 290
Thoré, Théophile, 29, 44, 207, 235
Thorigny, Felix, 161, 161
Three-Quarter Length Portrait of a Woman (Guys, 1872/73), 287
Tissot, James: The Ball on Shipboard (1874; cat. 85), 175–76, 177, 288
The Circle of the Rue Royale (1868; cat. 73), 139, 147, 150, 151, 285
The Circus Lover (1885; cat. 92), 184, 298
Courbet and, 22
A Door Must Be Either Open or Closed (1876), 291
in England, 119, 149
Evening (1878; cat. 91), 183, 183–85, 292
fashion and, 99, 146–48, 174, 178, 214, 251
Frederick Gustavus Burnaby (1870; cat. 70), 141, 142, 286
Impressionism and, 146
July: Specimen of a Portrait (1878; cat. 52), 69, 116, 118–19, 293
Leaving the Confessional (1865), 148, 149
The Marquis and Marquise de Miramon and Their Children (1865; cat. 1), 16, 18, 149, 282
Mavourneen (1876), 290
models, 118–19, 183
modernity and, 148, 151
Portrait (1876; cat. 30), 69, 74, 119, 291
Portrait of Eugène Coppens de Fontenay (1867), 151, 151
Portrait of Mademoiselle L. L. (1864; cat. 118), 77, 148–49, 234, 235, 281
Portrait of Miss L. . . (1876), 291
Portrait of the Marquise de Miramon, née Thérèse Feuillant (1866; cat. 7), 26–29, 28, 120, 283
Portraits in a Park (1863; cat. 4), 22, 115, 148, 281
portraits of, 149, 149
The Rubens Hat (1875), 290
Seaside (1878), 69, 116, 119
The Shop Girl (1883–85; cat. 75), 152, 155, 157, 214, 296
The Two Sisters (1863; cat. 4), 22, 115, 148, 281
Women of Paris series (1883-85), 157, 184, 185, 214
Titian, 133
The Toilette (Whistler, 1878), 293
“Toilette for the City: Toilette for Important Visits” (1874), 61
“Toilettes by Madame Fladry” (Imprimerie Gilquin Fils, 1871; at. 26), 70, 286
top hats, 191–94
Toudouze, Anaïs: Le Follet illustrations, 108, 109
La Mode illustrée illustrations, 89, 91, 120, 123, 226
“Six Hats” (1880; cat. 108), 226, 226, 294
“Two Women in Evening Dresses” (1877), 301
Toulmouche, Auguste, 17, 36, 43, 83, 146, 174, 251
Traité de la vie élégant (Balzac), 58
Tréhot, Lise, 37, 75, 94, 97
Turkeys (Monet, 1877), 275
“26 rue Vavin” (Sauvage, 1914), 163
The Two Sisters (Tissot, 1863; at. 4), 22, 115, 148, 281
“Two Women in Afternoon Dresses” (Imprimerie P. Lacourière-Falconer, 1884; at. 134), 265, 297
“Two Women in a Garden” (1865), 301
“Two Women in Day Dresses with a Young Girl” (1873), 300
“Two Women in Evening Dresses” (1880; cat. 87), 179, 295
“Two Women in Evening Dresses” (Toudouze, 1877), 301
“Two Women Outdoors” (Leloir, 1865/66; cat. 3), 20, 282
“Two Women Wearing Coats” (1863–64), 300
“Two Women Wearing Coats” (Imprimerie Moine, 1863–64), 300
Two Young Ladies in a a Garden (1873–74), 288
umbrellas, 188–89, 253–54
The Umbrellas (Renoir, 1881/85), 260, 261
undergarments, 124–33. See also corsets
Uzanne, Octave, 129
Vallotton, Félix, 217, 217, 299
Varnedoe, Kirk, 186, 195
The Velvet Dress (Whistler, 1873), 288
Le ventre de Paris (Zola), 223–24
Venus of Urbino (Titian, 1538), 133
Verlaine, Paul, 61
Vernier, Charles, 235, 237
La Vie Élégante, 83
Viel-Castel, Horace de, 236, 238
La Vie Moderne: exhibitions, 239–40, 243, 244
journal, 43, 69, 173, 174, 178, 178, 223, 239–40, 244, 248, 250–51; profile of Manet, 240–43
La Vie Parisienne, 41, 44, 44, 78, 124, 129–33, 149, 205, 214, 273
View of Nadar’s Studio . . . (Nadar, 1861), 197, 198
Villes de France, 68
Viollet-le-Duc, Eugène-Emmanuel, 162, 162
“The Virgil” (Mallarmé, 1874), 231, 231
Viscount Lepic and His Daughters Crossing the Place de la Concorde (Degas, 1875), 168–69, 169
Vuillard, Édouard, 146, 258
Waal, Edmund de, 225
Wallet, Madame Henri, 258, 259
Watteau, Antoine, 105, 249
“The Weighing of the Jockeys. . .” (Béraud, 1881), 175, 175
Whistler, James McNeill: Arrangement in Flesh Color and Black: Portrait of Theodore Duret (1883; cat. 69), 140, 142, 296
Symphony in White, No. 1: The White Girl (1862), 26, 26, 29, 148
The Toilette (1878), 293
The Velvet Dress (1873), 288
white garments, 96, 99, 104, 112–15, 119, 120, 123, 207
The White Slippers (Gonzalès, 1879/80; cat. 112), 227, 231, 293
Wibaille, Gabriel-Émile, 161, 161
Willard, Frances, 154, 165
Wilson-Bareau, Juliet, 30
window displays, 64, 155, 162, 165, 172, 210, 213, 223–24
A Windy Day on the Pont des Arts (Béraud, 1880/81), 294
Winterhalter, Franz Xaver, 19, 19, 206
Woman at Her Toilette (Morisot, 1875/80; cat. 59), 124, 128, 288
Woman at the Piano (Renoir, 1875/76; cat 55), 35, 120, 121, 289
Woman Bathing in a Shallow Tub (Degas, 1886), 224
Woman Fastening Her Garter (Manet, 1878–79), 129, 129
“Woman in an Outdoor Dress with a Woman in a White Muslin Dinner Dress” (1865; cat. 119), 234, 283
Woman in a Striped Dress (Vuillard, 1895), 258
Woman in Pink (Stevens, 1866; at. 11), 37, 38
Woman Leaning on Her Elbow (Pierson, 1856/57; cat. 20), 58, 60, 280
“Woman Looking through a Telescope. . .”, with a Man and a Dog” (Préval, 1863), 301
Woman Reading (Manet, 1879/80; cat. 122), 170–71, 232, 241, 243, 293
Woman Seated beside a Vase of Flowers (Degas, 1865), 224
Woman’s Head (Renoir), 247
Woman Walking with a Parasol (Seurat, 1884), 297
Woman with a Fan (Renoir, 1876), 247, 247–48
Woman with a Fan. Portrait of Madame Marie Hubbard (Morisot, 1874; at. 56), 122, 123, 288
Woman with a Muff (Guys, 1860/64), 280
Woman with a Parasol–Madame Monet and Her Son (Monet, 1875), 261
Woman with a Parrot (Courbet, 1866), 31, 31
Woman with a Pearl Necklace in a Loge (Cassatt, 1879; at. 88), 164, 180, 182, 293
Woman with a Vase of Flowers (Degas, 1872), 224
Woman with Binoculars (Degas, 1875/76; cat. 84), 175, 176, 289
Woman with Gloves (Giron, 1883), 83, 83
Woman with Parrot (Renoir, 1871; at 22), 65, 66, 248, 286
women: fashion and, 57–58, 78–80, 194–95, 233–43, 250–51; feminine ideal, 57–58, 104, 105, 114, 129–33; as models, 37–41, 78–80, 112
roles of, 58, 59, 104, 105, 157, 237, 251, 254, 255–56, 269. See also Parisienne prototype
Women in Interior (Lamiche Fils et Augé, 1862), 205
Women in the Garden (Monet, 1866; at. 45), 21, 47, 50, 100–05, 101–02, 283
Women of Paris series (Tissot, 1883–85), 157, 184, 185, 214
Worcester Corset Company: Corset (Worcester, 1880; at. 60), 126, 130, 295
Workers Leaving the House of Paquin (Béraud, 1906), 214
Works in Oil and Pastel by the Impressionists of Paris exhibition, 260–61
Worth, Charles Frederick: Ball gown (1886; cat. 89), 181, 298
customers of, 77, 80, 249, 258
Day dress (1886; cat. 131), 258–60, 263, 298
dress kits, 64
dress patterns, 75, 183
Evening dress (1882), 296
fabric industry and, 77, 258–60; Stevens and, 82
Worth, Jean-Philippe, 83
“Les yeux des pauvres” (Baudelaire), 155
Young Ladies on the Banks of the Seine (Courbet, 1856–57; cat. 34), 22, 85, 86, 148, 280
Young Lady in 1866 (Manet, 1866; at. 9), 21, 26–31, 27, 29, 38, 120, 283
Young Woman in a Ball Gown (Morisot, 1879; at. 86), 179, 182, 294
Young Woman in a Round Hat (Manet, 1877/79; cat. 127), 175, 256, 257, 291
Young Woman Reading an Illustrated Journal (Renoir, 1880; at 123), 242, 243, 294
Young Woman Seated on a Sofa (Morisot, 1879), 294
Zola, Émile: L’Argent, 169
L’Assommoir, 244
Au Bonheur des Dames, 49, 58, 60, 112–15, 127, 162–63, 173–74, 185, 209, 225, 226–27, 277
on Bazille, 20, 96
on Caillebotte, 188
Charpentier family and, 239, 244, 247, 248
La curée, 162, 169
fashion and, 224, 251
on Manet, 29–30; on men’s fashions, 137
on Monet, 46, 51, 87, 96, 100, 105, 142, 185
Nana, 58, 127
nouvelle peinture and, 17, 50
L’Oeuvre, 144
Une Page d’amour, 247, 248
portraits of, 139, 144, 235
Pot-Bouille, 17; on Renoir, 37, 96, 235
Rougon-Macquart series, 244
social circle, 34, 239
Tissot and, 185
Le ventre de Paris, 223–24
Zouave jackets. See boleros