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Index
Amelia Rauser
Description: The Age of Undress: Art, Fashion, and the Classical Ideal in the 1790s
The Age of Undress: Art, Fashion, and the Classical Ideal in the 1790s
Index
Author
Amelia Rauser
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 2020 The Author
Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-23231
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Index
A
Abercorn, Lady Cecil Hamilton 104–5
abjection 67, 130, 134, 135–8, 148, 152, 157, 167, 173, 174, 176, 184, 189
abolitionism 128, 148–9
Ackermann, Rudolph (publisher) 68
aesthetic philosophy 9–10, 15–6, 35, 49–54, 126–7, 135–8, 189
“pregnant moment” 50, 138
see also Herder, Johann Gottfried; Lessing, Gotthold Ephraim; sculpture; Winckelmann, Johann Joachim allegories, women as 8, 27, 31, 121
see also goddess of Liberty
Anglomania 9
Anna Amalia, Dowager Duchess of Weimar 53–4, 117
animation 9, 71–3, 77, 79–81, 106, 117, 128, 170, 183, 189
animated statues 38, 77, 87–91, 169–71, 187
vitalist 66, 68
see also classical subjects: Psyche (Anima), living statues, and vitalism antiquity 9–10, 33, 63, 75, 109–110, 187
emulating antiquity 18, 21, 29–30, 33, 37, 42–4, 75, 85, 106, 121
hair à la Titus 174
see also living statue; Naples: past and present merging in; Pompeii
Antiquities of Athens 107
apes, aping 51–63
see also dilettante Appiani, Andrea, Madame Hamelin 184, 185
Apuleius, Metamorphoses or The Golden Ass 75
archaeology 29, 38, 107–9
Aristotle 137
Artaud, William (artist) 37
artifice 38, 67, 133, 176
belly pad and 103, 110, 117
as civilized and polished 10–12
cosmetics and 127, 133
as inauthentic 12, 14, 29
wax statuary and 147–8
artistic agency of women 8, 31, 35, 62–3, 87, 91, 138
dress expressing 14, 16–17, 34, 63, 152, 188
Corinthian Maid as parable of 110, 113–17
Hart as example 42, 44
radical neoclassicism licensing 30, 34, 54, 167
see also women artists
artistic dress 10, 14, 26–9, 31, 45, 85
“attitudes” (performances) 21, 30–31, 44, 47, 49, 52–4, 57, 96, 117, 148
influence on visual culture 45–6, 104, 108–9, 117
as Neapolitan, 35, 37–9, 45, 53, 59
and women’s artistic expression 17, 42, 50, 52, 54, 60, 68, 96, 104 see also Hart, Emma
B
bacchante 7, 8, 15, 23, 33–63, 51, 58, 82, 85, 130, 167, 171, 173, 183
bacchantism 17, 46, 52, 54, 104, 145, 176
ballet 17, 85
Banks, Sir Joseph (scientist) 180
Bartolozzi, Francesco: after Charles
Didelot, Rose Didelot Crowned by Psyche 86
after G. B. Cipriani, Beauty 128
Bath Spa 42
Belle Assemblée, La 21, 97, 118
Berger, Daniel, after Anton Graff, Esther
Charlotte Brandes as Ariadne 29
Blake, William, Psyche Disobeys 81, 82, 106
Blumenbach, Friedrich, On the Natural Varieties of Mankind 149, 176, 177
Boilly, Louis-Léopold: after Salvator Tresca, La Folie du Jour 178
Painting of a Family Game of Checkers 94, 96
Bonaparte, Joséphine de Beauharnais 9, 22, 66, 140, 183, 188, 189
Bonaparte, Napoleon 10, 75, 140, 189
Bonnemaison, Féréol de, Young Woman Overtaken by a Storm 66, 67
Bordeaux 165, 170
Bovi, Mariano see William Lock Brandes, Esther Charlotte (actor) 29
Brugghen, Hendrik ter, Bacchante with Ape 51
Brunias, Agostino: Caribbean Women in Front of a Hut 140
A Negroes’ Dance in the Island of Domenica 60
Buck, Adam: Mary Anne Clarke at the Base of a Statue 80
Saucer 158
The Winter’s Tale; Mrs Siddons as Hermione 90
C
Campbell, Lady Charlotte 14, 58, 59, 68, 98, 100, 104–7, 117, 123
as “inventor” of neoclassical dress 21–3, 97, 104, 106, 118, 187
Campbell, John (collector) 79
Canova, Antonio 78, 79, 81
Psyche Revived by Cupid’s Kiss 77
surface treatments 148
ceinture à la victime see croisures à la victime Chartres Cathedral 169
Chaussard, Pierre-Jean-Baptiste (critic) 82
chemise 11, 12, 14, 44, 45, 47, 65, 93, 125, 166, 173
see also robe en chemise children’s dress 93–4
Chinard, Joseph, Bust of Madame Récamier 132, 142–3
Chodowiecki, Daniel 14
Natur und Afectation 12, 176
Tawny, American, Ethiopian, Asian, and Caucasian, from Blumenbach’s Beyträge zur Naturgeschichte 176, 177
classical subjects
arete 14
Ariadne 29, 42
Corinthian Maid 23, 110–16, 166
Cupid 75–83, 113, 120
Endymion 81
Galatea 15, 16, 23, 29, 35, 44, 52, 54, 72, 77, 82, 148
Juno 50, 118–21
Psyche (Anima) 23, 72, 74–85, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 80, 82, 83, 86
Venus 15, 17, 50, 75, 76, 77, 85, 118–21, 146, 174
see also Pygmalion
Clément-Hémery, Albertine (artist) 18
Clary-et-Aldringen, Prince Charles de 184
cognition, theories of 8, 15–6, 66–7, 71–4, 91
see also embodied cognition
Coldstream Guards Band 60, 60, 61
Condillac, Étienne Bonnot de (philosopher) 15, 73, 189
contour 74, 99, 106, 110, 117, 135, 179
artistic 38, 99, 105–6, 108, 121, 128
bodily 9, 25, 44, 71, 89, 102, 128
see also outline
Cook, Captain James (explorer) 179
Corinne, or Italy see Staël, Germaine de
cosmetics 12, 77, 127, 146
Costume Parisien see Journal des dames et des modes
Cosway, Richard, Unknown Lady of the Sotheby or Isted Families 121, 123
cotton 9, 22, 25, 73, 93, 126, 139–40, 151, 166
see also muslin
Creole 22, 139–46, 148, 151, 152, 183, 184, 189
headwrap 140–43, 184
hoop earrings 59, 140, 143, 149, 189
see also madras cloth; West Indies
Crespi, Giuseppe Maria, Cupid and Psyche 78
croisures à la victime 26, 173, 174
Cruikshank, Isaac
Frailties of Fashion 99, 100, 104
The Graces of 1794 103
Cumberland, George (art theorist) 106–8, 110, 123
D
Darwin, Erasmus (scientist) 85–6
David, Jacques-Louis 107, 168, 170
Marie-Antoinette on her Way to the Guillotine 172
desire 50–53, 119–20, 171, 181
aesthetic philosophy and 8, 15–16, 54, 77, 116
Corinthian Maid and 110, 113, 116
Psyche and 72, 77, 79, 82
see also Pygmalion
Dent, William: Female Whimsicalities 100, 101
The French Feast of Reason 170
Didelot, Rose (dancer) 84, 85, 86
Diderot, Denis (philosopher) 15, 16, 189
dilettante, dilettantism 17, 54, 57–63
Directory, Directoire 10, 21, 22, 77, 142, 155, 157, 163, 183, 184
disease 72, 85–7, 91
Divoff, Countess 184
doublure 149–50
dress elements: belly pad, 22, 99–107, 110, 115, 117, 121, 135, 160
busk, baleen (whalebone) 12, 21
cameo 27, 39, 151, 155
cashmere 7
cestus 21, 117–123, 187; see also zone
corset 7, 96–7, 188
court dress 10–11, 21, 29, 181
fan 14, 68, 126, 155
fichu 9–10, 59, 65, 71, 143
handkerchief 142–3, 180
mantua (gown) 10–11
netting 65
panniers 10, 12, 25, 29, 181
pendant 76, 77
petticoat 10, 21, 93, 99, 117, 155, 156, 157, 179, 180, 188
plume or feathers (ostrich) 14, 118, 125, 160
round gown 9, 22, 140, 143, 167
shawl 7, 30, 31, 42, 44, 75, 104, 125, 133, 155, 184
stays 10, 12, 44, 85–6, 96–7, 117, 173
stomacher 10, 120
train (of a dress) 10, 26, 96, 162
wigs 133, 140
see also chemise; fashion; robe en chemise
drape, drapery 17, 24–31, 37, 42, 65, 120, 135, 162, 178–9, 187
of classical sculpture 14, 26–7, 103–4
of neoclassical dress 7, 22, 25, 31, 47, 90, 105, 128, 155, 157
wet drapery 65, 162, 187, 195 n. 2
Dunn, John, Lady Emma Hamilton as a Bacchante 7
Duvivier, Jean-Bernard, Portrait of Madame Tallien, 20, 21
E
Earlom, Richard, after Romney, Sensibility 73
Elliot, Sir Gilbert (diarist) 103–4
embodiment 15, 31, 34, 42, 45, 49, 50, 52, 67, 73, 85, 134, 163, 166–7, 181, 189
cognition and 8, 16, 67, 71–2, 85, 123
neoclassicism and 8, 12, 17, 31, 33–5, 49, 63, 99, 104, 167, 170
race and 130, 134, 151
see also sensibility
Enlightenment 14, 16, 31, 45, 71, 73, 127, 130, 138, 139, 181, 185, 188
Espinchal, Comte d’ 49
F
fashion 8, 9
see also artistic dress; dress elements; neoclassical dress; naturalism; prison fashion; robe à la sauvage; robe en chemise; undress
fashion journals 22
Flaxman, John 46, 106–8, 110, 116–17
Cephalus and Aurora 135, 136, 137
Iliad 46, 106, 108
Foster, Lady Elizabeth 42
fragment 9, 34, 38–9, 40, 49, 67, 90, 119, 135, 138, 163
Franklin, Benjamin (statesman) 116–17
Fraser, John (musician) 60
Freemasonry 181
French Revolution 67, 163, 181, 183, 184, 185
Festival of the Federation 168
Festival of Reason 22, 168–71, 181–3
Festival of the Supreme Being 171
Fête de la Raison 169
Terror 165–7, 171, 173–4
Thermidor 21, 22, 133, 165, 167, 185
Frénilly, Baron Fauveau de 87
Fuseli, Henry (artist) 106
G
Garrick, David (actor) 87
gem 29, 39
gender stereotypes see bacchante; goddess of Liberty; Herculaneum Dancers; motherhood; nakedness; satire: caricatures of “undress”
Gentileschi, Orazio (artist) 81
Gérard, François
Portrait of Josephine, Wife of Napoleon 66
Psyche and Cupid 83
Gérard, Marguerite, Motherhood 157–8, 159, 161
Gillray, James 121
Advantages of wearing Muslin Dresses! 17
Dido, in Despair! 16
The Fashionable Mamma 160
Graces in a High Wind 26
La Belle Espagnole 149, 150
Ladies Dress, as it Soon Will Be 14
Modern Grace 84
A New Edition, Considerably Enlarged 47
Operatical Reform 84
A Vestal of 93, trying on the cestus of Venus 118, 119
Goddess of Liberty 22, 168–71, 173, 176
see also allegories
Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von 29, 37, 44, 57–9, 108, 109
gold 76, 157, 158, 184, 189
see also Creole: hoop earrings; guillotine: earrings in the shape of
Gorsas, Antoine-Joseph (politician) 167
Goya, Francisco 107
Allegory of Love, Cupid and Psyche 80
Grand Tourists 34, 107, 109
Grasset de Saint-Sauveur, Jacques, Blanchisseuses de St. Domingue 140
Greek style dress, robes à la grecque 7, 18, 21, 29, 30, 37, 42, 44, 54, 86, 97, 120, 157, 170, 187
Greville, Charles Francis 21, 39
Gribelin, Simon, frontispiece, The Art of Painting 111, 113
Guérin, Jean-Urbain, Portrait of a Woman Wearing White Transparent Drapery 155, 156
Guérin, Pierre-Narcisse, Portrait of a Young Girl 174, 175
guillotine 165, 166, 167, 171, 173, 176
earrings in the shape of 172
H
hair 7, 10, 12, 14, 27–8, 42, 44, 102, 128, 142, 166, 167, 173, 174, 181, 184, 187, 189
blondness 22, 37, 104, 133, 140
cropped 94, 142, 149, 173, 174, 178, 181
powder 7, 10, 12, 27, 28, 29, 104, 133, 142
Hamelin, Fortunée 22, 77, 140, 183–4, 185
descriptions of Hamelin 184
Hamilton, Hugh Douglas, Antonio Canova in His Studio 78
Hamilton, Sir William 21, 39, 40, 44, 49, 50, 57, 74, 105, 107
Hamilton, William, Marie Antoinette Led to Her Execution 172
d’Hancarville, Pierre-François Hugues 107
Hare-Naylor, Georgiana 106, 116–17
Hart, Emma (Lady Hamilton) 7, 17–8, 2 1–2, 32, 35, 37–47, 39, 40, 4I, 43, 46, 47, 48, 52–4, 68, 73, 74, 104–5, 108, 109, 148
artistic innovation of 30, 37, 42, 54, 117
as bacchante 39–41
performance dress of 35, 42–47
satirized 17, 46–7, 49, 57–9
see also attitudes (performances);
Naples: William Hamilton’s circle in
Hayley, William 107, 114
Triumphs of Temper 73–4
Head, Guy, Juno Borrowing the Girdle of Venus 120, 121
health, and dress 60, 72, 85–7
Heideloff’s Gallery of Fashion 125, 126, 143, 149, 151
Helman, Isidore Stanislas, after Charles Monnet, La Fontaine de la Régéneration 168
Herculaneum Dancers 33–8, 34–6, 39, 40, 44, 46, 62
Herder, Johann Gottfried (philosopher) 15, 45, 50, 52–4, 77, 109, 116, 189
high-waistedness 7, 9, 22, 31, 59, 71, 77, 92–7, 106, 117, 188, 121, 158, 173
breasts and belly emphasized, 22, 93, 158
resemblance to children’s wear 93–4
worn with belly pad 117–18
see also short waists
Hobart, Lady 59
Hope, Thomas, Household Furniture and Interior Decoration 137–8
Hoppner, John, Portrait of Emily St. Clare as a Bacchante 55
I
Illuminati 181
Indian textiles 25, 65, 93, 134, 139
indigo 140
Industrial Revolution 139, 152
Isabey, Jean-Baptiste: Portrait of Teresa de Cabarrus, also known as Madame Tallien 133, 134, 142
Portrait of Thérésa Tallien as a Muse of Poetry 128, 129
ivory 15, 77, 128, 148
J
Jorio, Andrea de (master of antiquities) 44
Joséphine, see Bonaparte, Joséphine Beauharnais de
Journal des dames et des modes 143, 162–3
Bonnet à la jardinière 26
Chapeau de velours, fichu quadrille 24
Chevelure à la Titus 178
Coiffure négligée en fichu 174
Fichu de Gaze, Manches en Tricot de Soie 179
Fichu-Madras, Robe de Perkale 144
Fichu-Turban, Chapeau de Paille 64
Manches lacées, chaine en or 154
Peigne d’Or, Fichu-Ceinture 92
Toquet à Pointes, Robe de Madras 144
Turban au ballon, ceinture croisée 174
K
Kauffman, Angelica 26–8, 49, 86
Self-Portrait as the Muse of Painting 28
Kemble, John Philip (actor) 87–9
Knight, Cornelia (writer) 44
Kraus, Marianne (artist) 49
Kristeva, Julia (philosopher) 135
L
La mère à la mode/ La mère telle que toutes devraient être 160, 161
Laneuville, Jean-Louis, Citizen Tallien in a Cell in La Force Prison 164, 165–7
Larive (actor) 29
Laurent, Jean-Antoine, Portrait of a Young Woman 133, 134, 166
Lawrence, Thomas 106
Catherine Gray, Lady Manners 85, 121, 120
Lady Mary Templetown and her Eldest Son 93–4, 95
Lady Amelia (Emily) Anne Hobart 101, 102
Sally Siddons 126, 127
Legat, Francis, after Romney, Cassandra Raving 18, 19
Lemoine, Marie-Victoire, The Interior of an Atelier of a Woman Painter 28
Lessing, Gotthold Ephraim (philosopher) 50, 77, 116, 137–8, 189
Lewis, Ann Frankland
1793, from the Collection of English Original Watercolor Drawings 102
1798, from the Collection of English Original Watercolor Drawings 8
licentiousness 29, 33, 35, 42, 49, 156, 163, 171, 180, 184
lightness 22, 154–163
see also nakedness in dress Lingée, Thérese Éléonore, L’imitation de l’Antique 75, 186
Liverpool 139
living classicism, living antiquity 30, 33, 34, 35–47, 49, 63, 81, 104, 117, 119, 163
see also Naples
living statue 7, 9, 15, 16, 17, 23, 31, 34, 44, 45, 46, 50, 52, 53, 68, 71, 72, 75, 77, 87, 123, 130, 134–5, 145, 146, 148, 167, 168, 171, 183, 184, 187
Lock, William, Emma, Lady Hamilton, Dancing the Tarantella 42, 43, 44
London 34
belly pad craze see dress: belly pad as cultural capital 29, 39, 42, 46, 85, 87, 99–123, 137, 167
as fashion capital 21–3, 86–7, 99, 101, 143, 155, 181
tambourine craze 59–61
Love and Harmony 56
M
Madame Bonaparte drawing the Portrait of the First Consul 188, 189
madras cloth 133, 134, 140, 143–5, 167, 184
see also Creole
Malépart de Beaucourt, François, Portrait of a Haitian Woman 140
Manchester 139
manners, natural and affected 12–14
marble 15, 45, 75, 77, 90, 103, 110, 117, 130, 132, 134–5, 136, 138, 143, 148, 163, 187
flesh and 15, 72–3, 75, 117, 189
women as 39, 90, 145, 184
Marchant, Nathaniel, Portrait of Emma Hart 39
Martyn, Thomas, and John Lettice (archaeologists) 38
matrices of analysis in this book 22–23
Marie Antoinette 9, 140, 166, 172
Massot, Firmin, after Vigée-Lebrun, Portrait of Madame de Stäel as Corinne 62
Mayer, Constance, Self-portrait 162
Mercier, Louis-Sébastien (critic) 157, 162, 171, 178, 184
Merveilleuses 21, 139, 163
Meucci, Anthony, Juliette Toussaint 142
Minerva 27, 50, 103, 104
miniature 7, 121, 123, 12S, 133, 143, 145, 155, 156
Mirate Che Bel Visino 151, 153
Momoro, Antoine-François (politician) 169, 171
Moreton, J. B., and racist stereotypes 144–5
Morin, Eulalie, Portrait of Madame Juliette Récamier 9
Morghen, Filippo, after Camillo Paderni, Antichità di Ercolano 38
Morris, Thomas, after Hamilton, Capt.n Wallis on his Arrival at O’Taheite 180
motherhood, maternity 81, 93–4, 102, 135, 157–61, 163, 168, 171
see also pregnancy
mulatto 146–7, 151, 183
muslin 155
blueing 140
Creole uses 22, 128, 140–43
drape 25–6, 187
flammable 17–18,
imperial and colonial textile 139, 151
informal dress uses 9, 18, 27–8, 93
muslin disease 86–7
neoclassical dress uses 7, 10, 14, 18, 22, 27, 71, 75, 77, 89, 90, 93, 94, 99, 102, 106, 118, 133, 138, 151, 158, 161, 162, 167, 173
transparency 65, 66, 81, 87, 102, 126, 178
worn by Emma Hart 42, 45, 47
N
nakedness in dress 14, 25, 65–66, 85–7, 89, 105, 155–7, 161–3, 178–83, 185
bare arms 87, 155, 157, 162, 178, 181, 183, 187
see also lightness
naturalism 12, 16, 57, 73–4, 151, 167, 176, 180–81
classicism and 12–14, 38, 104, 128, 130, 139
in acting, theatre 29, 45, 85
in fashion 8–9, 12–14, 18, 26, 31, 67, 94, 96–7, 101, 127, 133, 149, 151
women and 94, 133, 163, 171
see also aesthetic philosophy; Pygmalion
Naples 22–3, 29–31, 33–54, 107, 109, 117, 167
Accademia Ercolano 38
emergence of neoclassical dress in 22–3, 34
past and present merging in 31, 34–5, 40, 44, 53, 123
peasants and 35, 37, 44
primitivism of 46
Vesuvius 37, 40
William Hamilton’s circle in 17–18, 21, 30, 39–40, 42, 57, 104
see also living classicism; tambourine
Nelson, Horatio, Admiral Lord 39
neoclassical dress 7–14, 17, 23, 25–31, 39, 42, 63, 65–69, 71, 75, 87, 89, 93–7, 105–6, 120–21, 125–30, 139, 143–4, 155–63, 167, 173, 178–80, 184–5, 187–9
abjection and 163, 167, 180, 189
as anti-fashion 9, 14
as artistic dress 26, 31, 44, 106, 116, 130, 189
bodily freedom and 85–6, 94, 163
drawstring neckline 93, 94, 133, 167
emergence of 8, 18–22, 34, 63
five formal elements of 22–23
living statues and 9–10, 52, 54, 90, 185
naturalism and 10, 67, 163, 169
race and 128, 130, 133–4, 139, 149, 151–2
sensation and 69, 72, 85, 87, 91, 105, 123
white-on-white embroidery 102, 125, 126, 162
see also artistic dress; nakedness; undress
neoclassicism 109, 116, 138–9, 167, 185
bacchantic neoclassicism (woman-centered) 7–8, 17, 40, 42, 116, 138, 167
priapic neoclassicism (masculine) 7–8, 42, 116
neopaganism 40–42, 130
radical or vanguard 8, 34, 39–40, 42, 99, 106–10, 167
see also embodiment; visual culture
New York City 142
Nollekens, Joseph, Minerva 103, 104
Novelli, Francesco, after Pietro Novelli, The Attitudes of Lady Hamilton 30
O
Opie, Amelia (poet) 115–16
Oracle and Public Advertiser 7, 155–6
Orme, Edward (publisher) 68
outline 45–6, 82, 99, 105–110, 113–17, 123, 135
see also contour
Ovid, Metamorphoses 15, 145
P
pad see dress elements: belly pad Palmerston, Lady 39
Paris 34, 168, 171, 185
as cultural capital 18, 21, 29, 75, 77, 109, 151, 183–5
as fashion capital 21–3, 82, 86–7, 96, 133, 143, 155–63, 167, 178–9, 181
and “origin” of neoclassical dress 18, 21
La Force prison 165
National Convention (France) 165, 167
Notre-Dame Cathedral 168, 171
Salon (Académie des beaux-arts) 7, 165
Societé des Républicaines Révolutionnaires 167
see also French Revolution
Parisot, Mademoiselle (dancer) 84, 85, 86
Parke, William (musician) 60
Parson, William (poet) 68
Percy, Samuel, Lady Barrington 145, 146
Piroli, Tommaso 38, 45, 46, 106, 108–9
Antichità di Ercolano 38
after Flaxman, The Iliad of Homer (title page) 106
after Flaxman, Departure of Briseis, from the Iliad of Homer 108
after Rehberg, Drawings Faithfully Copied from Nature 32, 46, 109
after Tischbein, Woman Holding a Fillet 108
plantation culture 22, 134, 139–40, 146–9
see also Creole; West Indies
Pliny the Elder 113
Pompeii 34–5, 37, 38, 40
Pratt, Samuel Jackson, The New Cosmetic; or the Triumph of Beauty 145–8
pregnancy, in fashion 93–5, 99–103, 117, 157–61, 183, 196 n. 2
see also belly pad; maternity; motherhood primitivism 9, 62–3, 123, 176–85
classicism and 8, 62, 106, 130
neoclassical dress and 123, 133, 180, 183
Tahiti (Otaheite) 179–84
tambourine and 59–61
women and 60, 63, 114
see also robe à la sauvage
prison fashion 14, 143, 165–7, 173–5
Pygmalion 15–16, 44, 50, 52, 54, 72, 77, 79, 116
and naturalism in art 16, 29
colonialist version of 146–7
women as 35, 189
R
race, theories of 8, 62, 128–30, 146–8, 149, 150–52, 176–8, 183–4, 189
neoclassical dress and 133–4
Raeburn, Henry, John Tait and His Grandson 93, 94
Récamier, Juliette 9, 62, 66, 132, 142–3, 183
Regnault, Jean-Baptiste (artist) 114
Rehberg, Friedrich 49, 108
Drawings Faithfully Copied from Nature, at Naples 45, 32, 46, 109
Reynolds, Sir Joshua 39, 81, 117
A Bacchante 40
Lavinia, Countess Spencer, and John
Charles Spencer 93, 94
robe à la grecque see Greek style dress robe à la sauvage, “savage” dress 23, 62, 167, 178–85
robe en chemise 9, 125, 140, 192 n. 9
see also chemise
Robespierre (politician) 165, 171
Robison, John (scientist) 181–3
Rome, as cultural capital 39, 45–6, 75, 79, 106–9, 137
Romney, George 18, 39, 40, 44, 73–4, 106–7
Cassandra Raving 19, 39
Emma Hart as a Bacchante 40
The Origin of Painting 112, 114
Sensibility 73
Rousseau, Jean-Jacques (philosopher) 29, 156–7, 163, 176
Discourse on the Origin of Inequality 176
“natural” gender roles 176
Rowlandson, Thomas: Lady H______ Attitudes 48, 49
[Woman Playing Tambourine with the Coldstream Guards Band] 61, 62
Rural Sports; or, Smock Racing 86, 88
Runge, Phillipp Otto (artist) 107
S
satire 14, 17–19, 25, 54–62, 65, 85–6, 99, 101, 104, 119, 149, 160–62, 170–71
and racism 59–60, 149–50, 150, 151
belly pads 99, 100, 101, 117, 118, 119
caricatures of fashionable mothers 160–62, 160, 161
caricatures of “undress” frontispiece, 14, 16, 17, 26, 48, 66, 84, 85, 88
cestus 118, 119
doggerel 74, 101
of powerful women 170, 170–71
responses to bacchantes 62
tambourines and “musical mania” 58, 59, 61
see also Cruikshank, Isaac; Dent, William; Gillray, James
Schiller, Friedrich (writer) 57
sculpture 7, 8, 37, 72–3, 79, 81, 85, 86, 89, 102–10, 113, 120, 137–8, 145–8, 156–7, 162, 167–8, 189
abjection and 135
classical sculpture 14, 18, 33, 50, 75, 105–6, 109, 123, 128, 178
Herder treatise on 15–16, 50, 52–4
theories of appreciation 35, 50, 138, 148, 189
torchlight, for viewing 45, 89, 110
statue-man 15, 189
“statue-ness” 105, 109, 110
statuesque manners 42, 89, 110, 121, 189
see also aesthetic theory; attitudes (performances); living statue; outline
sensation 66–9, 72–4, 77, 81, 85–6
cognition and 8, 15–16, 73, 81, 91
skin and 66, 72, 86, 91
taste 50–54
touch (haptic) 16, 35, 50–54, 66–7
see also sensibility
sensibility 67, 71–4, 77, 87, 91, 167
art and 49, 106, 135
cultivating and refining 15, 33, 73, 106
gender and 42, 52, 73–4, 87, 89, 91, 171, 176
mimosa, “sensitive plant” 73–4
neoclassical dress and 72, 85, 123, 130, 144
Seward, Anna (poet) 73
Shakespeare Gallery, Boydell’s 18
Shelley, Mary, Frankenstein 73
Shelley, Samuel, Portrait of a Young Woman as Psyche 76
short waists 21, 93, 97, 117, 118
see also high-waistedness
Siddons, Sarah (actor) 87–91
silk 7, 11, 12, 29, 97, 125, 139, 155, 178–9
slavery 130, 134, 139–52, 183, 189
see also race; skin; whiteness
Smith, John Raphael, after Reynolds, A Bacchante 40
A Lady Holding a Mask 150, 152
Staël, Germaine de (writer), Corinne; or Italy 33, 34, 38, 44, 53, 62–3
skin 66–7, 75, 91, 126–30, 133, 146–9, 152, 161, 184
as sensitive membrane 16, 66–7, 72, 74, 86–7, 91, 105, 148, 163
see also race; whiteness
statue see sculpture or living statues
Stuart, James, and Nicholas Revett 107
Stuart, Lady Louisa 65
Swinburne, Henry (travel writer) 37, 38
T
Tallien, Jean-Lambert 22, 158, 165, 170
Tallien, Thérésa 9, 20, 23, 128, 129, 134, 161, 164, 165–6, 174, 181, 183
blond wigs and 133, 140
doublure of (La Belle Espagnole) 149–50
as goddess of Liberty 22, 170
as Notre Dame de Thermidor 22, 165
madras plaid and 140, 143, 166
as originator of neoclassical dress 21–2, 183
pallor of 128
pregnancies of 96, 158, 161
rat-bite scars of 165, 174
tambourine 33, 34, 40, 44
as fashionable pastime 52, 59–62
in Neapolitan tradition 34, 37, 40
tarantella 33, 42, 44
Telima Patent Corset 96, 97
Tischbein, Johann Heinrich William 104, 107, 108
Lady Charlotte Campbell 98, 104
Touchard-Lafosse, Georges (journalist) 184
Tornezy, Adèle (artist) 18
Toussaint, Juliette (charity worker) 142
transparency 22, 72, 128, 156, 178, 184–5, 187, 189
authenticity and 22, 67, 128, 167, 169
of neoclassical dress 22, 64–69, 72, 81, 85, 87, 93, 102, 126, 133, 158
of skin 66, 128
transparencies (artwork) 67–9, 89
Tresham, Henry (art agent) 78, 79, 81
tuberculosis (consumption) 72, 87, 126, 144, 149
see also disease
Turner, Charles, after John James Masquerier, Mademoiselle Parisot 86
u
undress 10, 45, 173
unmasking 12, 67, 148–52, 169
V
Versailles 30, 114
Vien, Joseph-Marie, Psyche Wakes the Sleeping Cupid 79
Vigée-Lebrun, Élisabeth 18, 26, 29, 31, 44, 62–3, 193 n. 3
“Athenian” dinner party 28–30
Emma Hamilton as a Bacchante 41
Portrait of Madame de Stäel as Corinne 62
Self-Portrait 114, 115
Villers, Marie-Denise, Marie Joséphine Charlotte du Val d’Ognes 25, 70, 89
virtue 73–4, 82, 87, 91, 121, 130, 167, 173, 176, 185
classical sculpture and 50, 52, 163, 170
neoclassical dress and 130, 151
physical perfection and 14
sensation and 73–4, 87
visual culture, neoclassical 17, 67–9, 76–7, 116, 118, 167
copy, translation, and homage in 17, 38, 119
the bacchante in 35
defragmentation and 38
influence of outlines on 46, 106, 109–110
motherhood and fashion in 160
wax sculpture in 145
Tahiti in 180
vitalism 15, 16, 53–4, 71–4, 91, 135, 144
animation and 53, 71, 77, 85
neoclassical dress and 72
skin and 74
transparencies and 68
W
Warren, Charles, Habit of a Young Woman of Otaheite Bringing a Present 182
wax 39, 110, 134, 152
Canova’s use on marble 148
Creole women as 145
and deception 148
statues 23, 134, 145–8
in The New Cosmetic 146–8
Wedgwood, Josiah 110, 128
Am I Not a Man and a Brother? 130
West, Benjamin, Juno Receiving the Cestus from Venus 120, 121
West Indies 22, 133, 139–40, 142, 144, 183
Martinique 140
Saint-Domingue (Haiti) 139–40, 148–9, 183
sugar cultivation 139–40, 149
whiteness 81, 124–31, 135, 145–52, 161, 163, 174, 198 col. 1 n. 15
beauty and 127–8, 146
in neoclassical aesthetics 126–7, 150
of muslin 22, 28, 42, 93–4, 125, 140
of the flesh, as created by neoclassical dress 65, 71, 72, 74
racialized 128–9, 133–4, 146–7, 148–9, 152
“white saviors” 128, 130
see also hair: blondness
Winckelmann, Johann Joachim (philosopher) 29, 50, 77, 109, 116, 126–7, 189
Williams, Charles, A Naked Truth, or Nipping Frost 88
Williams, Helen Maria (writer) 178–9, 183
Winter’s Tale, The 87–91, 147
women artists see Kauffman, Angelica; Kraus, Marianne; Vigée-Lebrun, Élisabeth; Lewis, Ann Frankland
Woodforde, Samuel, The Bennett Family 58
Woodward, George Moutard: The Art of Fainting in Company 190
Savoyards of Fashion—or the Musical Mania of 1799 58
Too Much and Too Little, or Summer Cloathing for 1556 & 1796, 66
Wright of Derby, Joseph 73
The Corinthian Maid 113, 114
Y
York, Duchess of 60
Young, John, after Richard Morton Paye, Sensibility 74
Young Woman in White 126, 127
Z
zone (in fashion) 7, 81, 97, 117, 119–21, 120, 187
see also high-waistedness