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Aileen Ribeiro
Description: Ingres in Fashion: Representations of Dress and Appearance in Ingres’s Images...
Ingres in Fashion: Representations of Dress and Appearance in Ingres’s Images of Women
Index
Author
Aileen Ribeiro
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 1999 by Aileen Ribeiro
Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-23144
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Index
About, Edmond, 16, 19, 110, 119, 158, 160, 240n, 244n
d’Abrantès, Duchesse, 246n
accessories, 1, 5, 32, 35, 39, 40, 41, 44, 45, 54, 68, 68, 91, 100, 114, 128, 160, 163, 168, 173, 175–96, 199, 228, 237, 245n
‘oriental’, 197, 205, 208, 210, 230
‘Adèle’ (pl. 12), 26, 27
aerophanes (transparent over-sleeves), 114
aigrettes (feathered ornaments), 175, 236, 245n
Alazard, Jean, 98
Alexandrine, milliner, 246n
Almanach de la mode parisienne, 39
Almanach des modes, 247n
Alquier, Charles, 108
Amaury-Duval, A.-E.-E., 16, 22, 24, 27, 94, 148, 231, 237, 240n
L’Atelier d’Ingres, 15
anatomical problems, Ingres’s, 27, 29, 48, 100, 110, 228
Antiochus and Stratonice, 143, 245n
Apponyi, Teresa Nogarola, Countess, 66, 68, 70, 70, 110
d’Argenteuil, Marcotte see Marcotte
‘art for art’s sake’, 237
The Artist and his Wife (pl. 9), 20, 20
L’Artiste, 16, 148, 153, 228, 231
The Art-Journal Illustrated Catalogue of the Industries of All Nations (pl. 137), 168
Ashburton, Lord, 66
Auguste, Jules-Robert, 208
Aymon, Madame, ‘La Belle Zélie’ (pl. 104), 128–9, 129, 192
Babin, Gustave, 134
Le Bain Ture (pl. 181), 199, 200, 220, 222, 222, 224–6, 228, 248n
Badham, Margaret Campbell, Mrs (pl. 39), 62, 64, 64
bal masqué, 208, 210, 210
Balay, Antoine, 245n
Balm of Mecca, 216, 248n
Baltimore, Lord, 208
Balzac, Honoré de, 9, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 44, 45, 120, 127, 150, 156, 176, 240n
Cousin Bette, 38, 107, 119, 141, 176
Eugénie Grandet, 16
A Harlot High and Low, 228–30
Lost Illusions, 33, 75, 156, 158, 182, 243n
Le Père Goriot, 241n
Splendeurs et misères des courtisanes, 156, 241n
Traité de la vie élégante, 31, 32
Ursule Mirouët, 93–4, 176
Balze, Marie-Anne-Adélaïde Samat, Madame (pl. 54), 75, 75–6
Balze, Raymond, 47
Bansi, Barbara (pl. 21), 7, 47, 48, 179
Barthes, Roland, 32, 35
Bather (1807, Bayonne), 27, 219, 225
Bather (1826, Phillips Coll.), 220, 225
Bather (pl. 182; 1864), vii, 226, 226
Bather (1864, Fogg Art Museum), 226
Bather of Valpinçon (pl. 174), 219, 219, 220, 225, 248n
bathers and odalisques, 2, 3, 5, 194–5, 197, 200, 201, 205, 206–7, 210, 211–17, 219, 219–36, 237, 238, 247n
baths, Turkish public (hamam), cult of the bath, 197, 216, 217, 219–26, 230, 248n
Baudelaire, Charles, 2, 3, 4, 12, 16, 17–18, 25, 31, 43, 48, 127, 128, 129, 224, 239n
‘The Painter of Modern Life’, 1, 12–13, 31
Bazar (Galerie) Bonne Nouvelle, 18, 45, 245n
Beauharnais, Hortense de, 112
Beauharnais, Josephine see Josephine, Empress
Beaumont-Vassy, vicomte de, Salons de Paris..., 152
Bell, Clive, 4
‘La Belle Ferronnière’ (pl. 85), 108, 108, 110
La Belle Jardiniére, 45, 244n
Bénard, Marie-Louise Bichot, Madame (pl. 45), 66, 68, 70
Bentinck, Lady Mary Cavendish (pls 34, 41), 56, 60, 64, 64, 66, 242n
Bentinck, William Henry Cavendish, 64
Berger, John, 1, 3
Bertin, Louis-François (pl. 10), 18, 22, 23, 23–4, 72, 152
Bertin, Rose, 44
black, women in, 91, 105, 107–25
Blanc, Charles, 23–4, 25, 29, 47, 59, 125, 132, 147, 178, 200, 240n, 249n
Ingres: sa vie et ses ouvrages, 237
Blanche, Jacques-Emile, 2, 173, 200, 224
blouses, 55, 88, 243n
blouses, 76, 141, 242n
bodice-and-skirt costumes, 82, 114, 164
bodices, 42, 49, 55–6, 58, 76, 81–2, 83, 94, 100, 110, 114, 119, 138, 146, 153, 160, 173, 242n
canezou, 55, 242n
chemisette/guimpe, 40, 56, 58, 62, 76, 132, 242n
‘Raphael’, 246n
spencer, 55, 66, 68, 242n
Boilly, Louis-Léopold, Atelier de Houdon, 72
boleros, 210, 211
Bon Marché, department store, 45
Bonaparte, Elisa, Grand Duchess of Tuscany, 114
bonnets, 60, 62, 64, 70, 93, 136, 242n
à la Pamela, 54, 56
cabriolet, 66, 68
bonnets, 36, 77, 175, 182, 242n
petit-bonnet, 182
boots see footwear
Bosse, Abraham, 60
Boucher, François, 205
Odalisque (pl. 166), 205, 206
Boudin, Louis Eugene, 88
bouillonnées (skirt bands), 153
Boijmans Van Beuningen Museum, Rotterdam, 76
bracelets, 84, 89, 100, 141, 146, 148, 152, 154, 160, 167, 173, 192, 226, 230, 234, 245n
Brazier, Madame (pl. 53), 75, 75–6
Breton, Jules, 240n
British East India Company, 186
brocade, 163, 167, 168, 168, 214
broderie anglaise, 58, 68, 78, 88
Broglie, Jacques-Victor-Albert, prince de, 158
Broglie, Joséphine-Eléonore-Marie-Pauline de Galard de Brassac de Béarn, princesse de (pls 65, 130, 132–3, 143), 10, 10, 26, 39, 82, 82, 143, 154, 156, 158, 158–63, 160, 178, 182, 192, 226, 246n
Broglie, Louise de see d’Haussonville, comtesse de
Bryson, N., 4, 200, 247n
burnous, white cashmere, 160, 162
caftan, 206, 210, 214, 235
Campbell, Thomas, 62
canezou (short bodice), 55, 242n
caps, 62, 64, 66, 76, 78, 84, 125, 141, 175, 179, 182
Carlyle, Thomas, 66
Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples (pls 80, 89), 112, 112, 114, 228, 244n
Carons, Auguste, The Lady’s Toilette, 36, 216
Carpaccio, Vittore, 235
cassolette (perfume container), 132
Cassou, Jean, 94, 243n
Cavé, Edmond, 241n
Cavé, Marie-Elisabeth, 43, 84, 241n
ceinture de matin (half-corset), 40
Celnart, Elisabeth-Félicie, 40, 176
Chapelle, Madeleine see Ingres, Madame
Charles X, King, 4
Charron, Eugène, 244n
Chassériau, Théodore, Madame Hennet, 243n
chatelaine, 140, 141
chemise see shift
chemisette/guimpe, 40, 56, 58, 62, 76, 132, 242n
chibouk (odalisque’s pipe), 230
Chirico, Giorgio de, 186
Chodowiecki, Daniel, ‘Lady Mary Wortley Montagu at the Public Baths’ (pl. 178), 222, 224
Clark, Kenneth, 114, 136–7, 147, 148, 164, 238
Ingres, 199
Clark, T.J., 200, 248n
Coleridge, Samuel Taylor, Kubla Khan, 235
collars, 56, 76, 78, 82, 140, 141, 148
colour, Ingres’s use of, 17–18, 19, 66, 91, 141, 147, 148, 152–3, 156, 166–7, 173, 192, 245n
blue as Christian colour, 234
green as colour of Muslim paradise, 235
women in black, 91, 105, 107–25
women in white, 91, 93–105, 243n
Colthurst, Elizabeth, Lady (pl. 38), 61, 64
Connolly, John, ‘Ingres and the Erotic Intellect’, 235
Copley, John Singleton, 78
corsets, corsetry, 26, 36, 38–9, 40, 41, 83, 84, 132, 136, 167, 200, 224, 241n
half- (ceinture du matin), 40
‘lazy-lacing’, 38
self-lacing, 36
cosmetics/make-up 13, 43
in the harem, 216–17, 248n
cotton, 48, 49, 53, 54, 56, 62, 93, 102, 173, 182, 219; see also muslin
Courbet, Gustave, 16–17
couturiers/couturières, 12, 13, 15, 45, 242n
Crimean War (1854–6), 210
crinolines, 12, 23, 42, 42, 43, 83, 84, 85, 86, 88, 89, 243n
Crivelli, Carlo, 233
Dali, Salvador, 15
damask, 107, 128, 163
Dampierre, chateâu de, 78
Dante Alighieri, 110
Daret, Louis, 206
Darrow, M.H., 240–41n
Daumas, Casimir, 248n
David, Jacques-Louis, 10, 15, 96, 108, 239n, 240n
Comte Français de Nantes, 240n
Madame Récamier, 96, 104, 136
Davies, Martin, 4, 163
Debay, Auguste, 240n
Hygiéne de la beauté, 216, 217
Les Modes et les parures, 31, 39, 168
décolletage, 35, 36, 40, 62, 119, 173
Degas, Edgar, 114, 244n
Delaborde, Henri, 29
Ingres, 175, 178
Delacroix, Eugène, 2, 4, 13, 16, 31, 70, 201, 203, 228
Baron Schwiter, 22
Journal, 4, 208
Women of Algiers in their Apartment, 203, 211, 231
Delatour, Madame, 44
Delécluze, Etienne-Jean, 60, 110
Les Délices de la mode et du bon goût, 15
Delord, Taxile, Physiologie de la Parisienne, 34–5
Delpierre, Madeleine, 16, 246n
‘Dépêche toi done, il n’y aura plus de place’ (pl. 17), 41
Destouches, Armande Charton, Madame (pl. 35), 58–60, 61, 182, 246n
Devauçay de Nittis, Madame Antonia (pls 86, 152), 26, 27, 108, 108, 110, 110, 112, 122, 129, 136, 141, 147, 184, 184, 192, 245n
Deveria, Achille, 74
Adèle Foucher, Madame Victor Hugo (pl. 55), 76;
Femme turque (pl. 169), 210
Devillers, Hippolyte-François, 22
draperies, 12, 17, 18, 48, 81, 119, 199, 230, 237
Drohojowska, Antoinette (pseudonym: Chevalier de Doncourt), La Vénté aux femmes, 94
DuCamp, Maxim, Souvenirs et paysages d’Orient, 213
Dufy, Raoul, 15
Dumas, Alexandre, 78
earrings, 100, 134, 160, 175, 234
à la girandole, 112
Elizabeth Norton and Henrietta Harvey (pl. 22), 49, 51, 54
embroidery, 22, 48, 51, 93, 98, 105, 141, 168, 176, 186, 234, 240n
Emily La Touche, Mrs Vesey and her Daughter Elizabeth, later Lady Colthurst (pl. 38), 61–2, 64
epaulettes, 68, 110, 114, 119
d’Epinay, Madame see Liotard
épingles de tête (jewelled pins), 167, 173, 180
Essais historiques sur les modes, 241n
etiquette manuals/books, 39, 40, 41–2, 108, 129, 154, 176
Eugénie, Empress, 44, 88, 160, 162, 168, 246n
eunuchs, black (in Ottoman harem), 213, 231, 233, 235
chief (khislar aga), 213
evening mantles, 123, 160, 162, 163, 184
eye make-up, 216–17
eye-glasses, 68, 140, 141, 178, 192
fabrics/textiles, 1, 5, 19, 25, 32, 39, 40, 42, 44, 45, 48, 49, 54, 72, 76, 84, 91, 96, 100, 108, 112, 119, 128, 163, 168, 186, 192, 214, 219, 237, 241n, 242n
oriental/Turkish, 197, 204, 205, 208, 214, 230
patterned, 163, 167; see also brocade; cotton; damask; muslin; satin; silk; velvet
fans, 70, 91, 110, 122, 152, 160, 168, 178, 184, 186, 230, 246n
fashion journals/magazines, 33, 38, 39, 41, 44, 56, 56, 122, 148, 160
feathers, 59–60, 76, 180, 184, 208, 230
marabou, 156, 160, 160, 163, 182, 246n
ostrich, 68, 112
feridjes (mantles), 213, 214
Ferriol, Charles de, 207
ferronnière, 54, 76
Feydeau, Ernest, 242n
Du luxe des femmes, 43
First Empire, 4, 44, 47, 48, 49, 91, 102, 188
Flandrin, Hippolyte, 245n
Flandrin, Paul, 233
Flaubert, Gustave, 204, 213
Madame Bovary, 38, 178, 210–11
A Sentimental Education, 122, 141, 148, 175, 188, 192, 211, 246n
Flaxman, John, 47, 242n
flounces, 59, 83, 84, 88, 122, 146, 148, 173
Les Folies Parisiennes, 9
Le Follet, 83, 120
footwear, 39, 48, 66, 175, 176, 219–20
Turkish slippers, 219, 220, 235
Ford, Brinsley, 66
Forestier family, 47
French Revolution (1789), 4, 15, 39, 100, 150, 240n, 242n
fur, 54, 64, 123, 186, 234, 242n, 243n, 246n
Fuseli, Henry, 179
Gagelin, Maison, silk merchant, 42, 44, 102
Gallois, Nathalie Bochet, Madame (pl. 69), 86, 86, 88
Gatteaux, Edouard, 72, 167
Gatteaux, Louise-Rosalie Aufrye, Madame (pl. 49), 72, 72
Gautier, Théophile, 16, 17, 19, 22–3, 24, 26, 43, 47, 110, 122, 150, 158, 182, 200, 212–13, 217, 224, 230, 232, 235, 237, 244n, 247n
‘A une robe rose’, 153
Constantinople, 203, 212, 214
De la mode, 12, 43, 88, 180
Emaux et carnées, 210
Poème de la Femme, 232–3
Portraits contemporains, 15, 219
Gavarni, Paul, 34
Gazette des beaux-arts, 134
Gernoux, Alfred, 134, 136, 244n
gilet-fichu, 88
Gilibert, Jean-François, 27, 78
gloves, 22, 39, 44, 91, 96, 123, 160, 175, 176, 178, 184, 186
Goethe, Johann von, 19, 199
gömlek (silk shift), 213, 214
Goncourt, Edmond and Jules de, Journal, 3, 4, 24, 31, 178, 239n, 245n, 247n
Gonin, Mademoiselle Jeanne (pl. 91), 114, 114
Gonse, Caroline Maille, Madame (pls 66, 101), 77, 80, 82, 125, 125, 230
Goujon, Jean, 3
Gounod, Anna Zimmerman, Madame (pl. 71), 88, 88, 89
La Grande Odalisque (pls 161, 185, frontispiece), 194–5, 195, 203, 210, 210, 211, 225, 228–31, 229, 248n, 249n
grandes horizontales, 31, 212
Granger, Mademoiselle Palmyre (‘Myrette’), pl. 59), 78, 78
Great Exhibition, London (1851), 44
Greek War of Independence (1821–30), 203
Guille, Mademoiselle Isabelle (pl. 74), 93, 94
Guys, Constantin, 31, 88
hairstyles/coiffures, 40, 41, 49, 53–4, 55, 76, 77–8, 100, 102, 119, 138, 141, 143, 146, 148, 163, 173, 179–80, 228, 247n
à la madone, 110, 179, 228
à la Mancini, 148
à la Raphael, 179
à la Sévigné, 77–8, 148
à l’antique, 48, 100
à l’orientale, 245n
Apollo knot, 76, 138, 179
of bathers, 199, 210, 224, 225
coiffure Espagnole, 122
marabou coiffure, 160
red trimmings, 148
Hals, Frans, The Laughing Cavalier, 228
Hamid I, Sultan, 222
handbags and reticules, 54, 56, 114
harems, 197, 208, 210, 212, 213–17, 220, 222, 224, 231, 247n
Harvey, Henrietta (pls 22, 24), 49, 51
Haudebourt-Lescot, Hortense, 48
d’Haussonville, Louise de Broglie, comtesse (pls 103, 116–20, 122), 10, 10, 17, 18, 27, 29, 78, 94, 127, 128, 129, 143, 143–8, 146, 148, 152, 154, 160, 158, 160, 168, 178, 180, 184, 230, 245n
d’Haussonville, Othenin, vicomte, 143
haute couture, 10, 12, 43–4
Hayard, Charles, 54
Hayard, Jeanne Suzanne Alliou, Madame (pl. 27), 54, 54, 55
headwear/hats, 20, 39, 43, 45, 48, 49, 52, 58, 62, 62, 66, 68, 70, 75, 76, 78, 84, 122, 132, 148, 148, 156, 160, 167, 173, 175, 179, 180, 182, 199, 214, 228, 235, 236, 242n, 246n
à ritalieune, 160
casque à la unnerve, 112, 112;
ferrouuièrc, 54, 66;
marabou feathers, 156, 160, 160, 163, 182, 246n
scuffia, 228
straw, 54, 56, 62, 114, 176
toques, 154, 156, 175, 245n, 246n; see also bonnets; bonnets; caps; turbans
Hegel, Friedrich, Aesthetics, 24
Hennet, Alphonse, 78
Hennet, Elisabeth Pierrette Fromantin, Madame (pl. 60), 78, 79, 83, 182, 243n
Herbault, milliner, 246n
historical costumes, 10, 12, 15, 74–5, 237
history paintings, 1, 2, 17, 72, 74
Hittorff, Madame, 186
Hobsbawm, Eric, 78–9, 80
Holbein, Hans, 5, 245n
Hollar, Wenceslaus, 64
hookah, 235
Houdon, Jean-Antoine, 72
Hugo, Adèle Foucher, Madame (pl. 55), 75, 76
Hugo, Victor, 33, 74, 78
Les Orientales, 210
Incroyables et Merveilleuses, 62
Ingres, Delphine Ramel, Madame (2nd wife: pls 67, 139, 149, 149), 39, 48, 84, 84, 167, 173, 173, 179, 182, 182, 192, 200
Ingres, Madeleine Chapelle, Madame (1st wife: pls 29, 31, 56), 19–22, 54, 56, 75, 76, 77, 166, 200, 242n, 243n
jewelled cross’ motif, 76
jewellery, 41, 51, 54–5, 84, 89, 91, 100, 112, 122, 123, 132, 134, 146, 152, 153–4, 156, 160, 167, 168, 173, 175, 176, 178, 180, 192, 194–5, 199, 208, 214, 226, 230, 234, 245n
coral, 100
épingles de tête, 167, 173, 180
neo-medieval, 167, 173
Roman filigree, 48
turquoise, 148
Joachim Murat, King of Naples, 112, 228
Jordan, Madame Augustin (pls 28, 144), 54–5, 55, 179, 179
Jordan, Gabriel (pl. 28), 54, 55
Josephine, Empress, 44, 96, 112, 222
Journal de Paris, 93, 94, 96, 127, 188
Journal des dames et des modes, 40, 56, 66, 68, 70, 96, 100, 112, 195, 188, 242n
Journal des débats, 22
Journal des demoiselles, 168
Journal des jeunes personnes, 42
‘jupe à la Musulmane’, 210
‘jupons en crinoline’ (petticoats), 83
Karr, Alphonse, 84
Les Femmes, 32, 108, 167–8, 243n
Khalil Bey, Ambassador, 248n
Krafft-Ebing, Richard, 35–6
kurk (furred mantle), 214
lace, 44, 45, 54, 66, 75, 83, 119, 122, 134, 148, 160, 167, 168, 175, 175, 178, 179
black, 120
Brussels bobbin, 160
Caen, 77, 125
Chantilly, 119, 120, 125, 244n
silk (blonde), 132, 239
Lacroix, Paul, 231, 239n
Lady’s Newspaper, 83, 148, 148, 153, 210
Lamartine, Alphonse Marie Louis de, 204, 247n
Lapauze, Henri, 60, 98, 110, 116, 122, 129, 136, 137, 147, 158, 173, 200, 222, 224, 245n, 248n
Lawrence, Sir Thomas, Margaret Power, Countess of Blessington (pl. 106), 132, 132
Leblanc, Françoise Poncelle, Madame (pls 90, 93–5, 159), 15, 70, 73, 107, 110, 114, 116, 116, 119, 119, 137, 188, 192, 192
Leblanc, Jacques-Louis, 114
Leeks, W., 247n
Legouvé, Ernest, 241n
Leonardo da Vinci, 129
La Belle Ferronniére, Ingres’s copy of (pl. 85), 54, 108, 108;
Mona Lisa, 110
Leroy, Louis-Hippolyte, 44, 112
Lethière, Alexandre, 53
Lethière, Letizia (pl. 26), 53, 53
Lethière, Lucien, 242n
Lethière, Marie-Joseph-Honorée Vanzenne, Madame Guillaume Guillon (pl. 25), 29, 48, 49, 52, 52, 53, 242n
Lethière, Rosina Meli, Madame Alexandre Guillon (pl. 26), 53, 53–4
Levey, Michael, 17
Lewis, Jane, 186
Woman with Sphere (pl. 153), 186
Liotard, Jean-Etienne, 5, 208
Louise-Florence d’Esdavelles, Madame La Live d’Epinay (pl. 123), 125, 150, 152
Woman in Turkish Costume (pl. 167), 205–6, 207
Liszt, Franz, 81, 211
Loménie, Louis de, 23
Louis XVIII, King, 4
Louis-Philippe, King, 4, 44, 94
luxury, debate on, 42–3, 242n
Luynes, due de, 78
Mackie, Dorothea Sophia Deschamps, Mrs (pl. 40), 64, 64
Madame Augustin Jordan and her Son Gabriel (pl. 28), 48, 54–5, 55
Madame Hortense Reiset and her Daughter Marie (pl. 64), 81
magasins de nouveautés, 44–5
Mancini, Marie, 148
Manet, Edouard, Le Déjeuner sur l’Herbe, 230
Olympia, 211
mantillas, 122
Manuel des dames, 40
Manuel des demoiselles, 176
Marcotte d’Argenteuil, Charles, 93, 148, 167, 231
Marcotte de Sainte-Marie, Suzanne Clarisse de Salvaing de Boisseau, Madame (pls 111–14, 147, 160), 26, 34, 137, 137–8, 138, 140, 140–41, 179, 182, 182, 192, 194, 241n
Marcoz, Marie see Senonnes, vicomtesse de
Marie-Amélie, Queen 44
Marie-Antoinette, Queen, 44
‘Marioncia’ (pl. 11), 26, 27
Matisse, Henri, 15, 134
Odalisque Seated with Arms Raised (pl. 170), 211, 211
Medici Venus, 231
Melling, Antoine-Ignace, Voyage pittoresque de Constantinople, 247n
Merman, B., 247n
men’s dress in portraiture, 22–4
Merson, Olivier, 240n
Metternich, Princess, 160
Meurice, Madame see Granger, Mademoiselle
Meurice, Paul, 78
Michelet, Jules, 36, 241n
mirrors, Ingres’s use of, 129, 146, 147, 148, 167, 180
Miss Harvey Sketching (pl. 24), 49, 51
models, Ingres’s use of, 26–7, 27, 29, 136, 249n
Moden Zeitung, 62
modistes, 12, 34, 44, 45, 84
Moitessier, Catherine, 164
Moitessier, Marie-Clothilde-Inès de Foucauld, Madame (pls 96–100, 134–6, 138, 146), 17, 25, 26, 31, 42, 119–20, 120, 122–5, 123, 128, 150, 154, 163–8, 164, 168, 180, 180, 182, 184, 192, 226, 230, 239n, 246n
Moitessier, Sigisbert, 166
Momméja, Jules, 59, 224
Monet, Claude, 88
Moniteur de la mode, 42, 168, 246n
Montagu, Lady Catherine Caroline, later: Madame Walewski (pl. 42), 66, 66
Montagu, Lady Harriet Mary, later: Lady
Ashburton (pl. 42), 66, 66
Montagu, Lady Jane (pl. 83), 104, 104–5
Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, 216, 222
Letters, 197, 208, 220, 222, 224, 225, 226, 248n
Montesquieu, Charles de Secondat, Baron de, Lettres persanes, 197, 235
Moroni, Giovanni Battista, 152
Mottez, Julie-Colette Odevaere, Madame (pl. 61), 78, 80, 81
mourning, 107–8
black as colour of, 112, 114, 244n
Müller, Charles-Louis-Lucien, 160
Munhall, Edgar, 143, 245n
Murat see Caroline; Joachim
Musée Bonnat, Bayonne, 163
Musée Ingres, 76
muslin, I, 4, 26, 32, 40, 48, 49, 51, 54, 58, 76, 93, 93, 94, 96, 102, 105, 119, 132, 186, 241n, 242n
Napoleon I, Emperor, 4, 96, 129, 203
Napoleon III, Emperor, 4, 160
necklaces, chains, 100, 108, 140, 154, 160, 192, 226, 234, 235, 245n
neo-classical style, 35, 36, 39, 48, 49, 54, 66, 94, 100, 102, 108, 112, 239n
Nerval, Gérard de, 204–5
Journey to the Orient, 205
Nicolay, Nicolas de, Les Quatre Premiers Livres des navigations et peregrinations orientales, 106–7, 226, 236:
‘Gentille Femme furcque estant dans leur maison ou serail’, 248n
‘Noble Turkish Lady’ (pl. 190), 236, 236;
‘Turkish Woman Going to the Baths’ (pl. 180), 222, 226
Norton, Elizabeth (pl. 22), 49, 51
Nouveaux travestissements (pl. 169), 210, 210
nudes and semi-nudes, 2, 3, 4, 5, 26, 35, 36, 136, 163, 197, 199–201, 204, 205, 211, 219, 222, 224, 225, 228, 237; see also bathers and odalisques
L’Observateur au Musée Napoléon, 93, 94
Ockman, Carol, 156
Odalisque with Slave (pl. 186: 1839), 179, 202, 206, 208, 208, 211, 231–4, 232, 235, 248n
Odalisque with Slave (pls 151, 188, 189: 1842), 184, 184, 197, 211, 233–6, 234, 236
odalisques see bathers and odalisques
‘oriental’ paintings/themes, 3, 4, 5, 197, 199, 200, 201, 203–36
d’Orléans, duc 240n
Oudinot, manufacturer of crinolines, 243n
palatine (stole), 94, 186
Palmyre, Mademoiselle, 44, 84, 242n
Paolo and Francesca (pl. 32), 54, 60
Panckoucke, Cécile Bochet, Madame (pls 80, 81, 154), 89, 100, 100, 102, 102, 186, 186, 188, 226
parasols, 68, 68, 70, 70
Pardoe, Julia, 217, 220, 225, 230, 248n
Parisian women, 33–5, 107
Pasmore, Victor, 164, 239n
Pastoret, marquis de, 22
pearls, 154, 158, 160, 192, 194, 195, 234, 243n, 245n
‘Le Peintre à la mode’ (from Les Folies parisiennes), 9, 9
pelerine (cape), 73–4, 74
pelisse coats/gowns, 34, 49, 64, 66, 68, 70, 72, 138, 138
perfumes, 44, 132, 210, 217, 222, 231
Perrot, Philippe, 42
Petit Courrier des dames, 36, 74, 77, 80, 83, 120, 150, 162, 182, 188, 210
petticoats, 83, 84, 86
Place, Isaure Leblanc, Madame (pl. 51), 73, 74
Poirot, Paul, 15
Pompadour dresses, 168
portrait drawings, 5, 16, 20, 20, 24, 34, 47–89, 91, 102
Prevost, Gabriel, Le Nu, le vêtement, la parure, 12, 246n
Printemps, department store, 45
Proust, Marcel, 211
Rachel (Elizabeth-Rachel Félix), 210
Racine, Jean, Bajazet, 210
Ramel, Delphine Bochet, Madame (pl. 68), 84, 86, 182
Raoul-Rochette, Madame Désiré (pl. 50), 72, 76, 179
Raphael, 5, 17, 19, 20, 25, 34, 54, 108, 156, 210, 228, 229, 247n, 248n
Raphael and La Fornarina (pl. 183), 228, 228, 229
ready-to-wear clothes (confection), 44–5
Réau, Louis, 208
Récamier, Madame, 96, 104, 136
Receuil de cent estampes representant différentes nations du Levant, 207–8, 220, 220, 225, 230, 235, 248n, 249n; see also Vanmour
redingote, 70, 72
Le Règne de la mode, 76, 188, 210, 240n
Reiset, Frédéric, 141, 245n
Reiset, Madame Hortense (pls 63, 64, 115), 81, 81, 83, 141–3, 143, 147, 243n, 245n
Reiset, Marie (pl. 64), 81, 243n
Renoir, Auguste, Odalisque, 211
Restoration, 4, 40, 44, 45, 102, 156, 241n
Revolution (July, 1830), 10, 33, 34, 83, 204, 239n, 241n
(1848), 4, 83, 241n; see also French Revolution
Revue des deux mondes, 45, 147, 152, 153, 158, 237
Revue universelle des arts, 231
Reynolds, Sir Joshua, 15
Richardson, Samuel, Pamela, 54
rings, 84, 100, 132, 146, 148, 173
Rivery, Aimée Dubucq de, 222
Rivière, Mademoiselle Caroline (pls 76, 155), 66, 73, 94, 96, 102, 108, 110, 128, 186, 188
Rivière, M., 98, 243n
Rivière, Marie-Françoise Beauregard, Madame (‘Sabine’) (pls 78, 157), 36, 36, 94, 96, 98, 98, 100, 102, 108, 110, 112, 129, 136, 188, 190, 192, 226
robe à la transformation, 81
Rogier, Camille, 217
Romanticism, 2, 12, 16, 33, 203
Rosenblum, Robert, 2, 17
Rosina Meli, Madame Guillon Lethière and her Daughter Letizia (pl. 26), 53, 53–4, 55
Rossini, Gioacchino, 150
Rothschild, Betty de Rothschild, baronne de (pl. 125), 10, 26, 39, 78, 127, 143, 150, 150–58, 184, 245n
Rothschild, James, baron de, 150, 244n
Roux, Paul de, 178
Rubens, Sir Peter Paul, 12, 200
Costume Book, 207
Rue, comtesse de la, 243n
ruffles, 148, 152
ruffs (collerettes), 53, 54, 56, 56, 112, 114, 119, 125, 132
Salon: (1806), 94, 98
(1819), 228
(1824), 9
(1833), 110
(1834), 10, 203
(1846), 25, 147
(1859), 25
Sand, George, 79, 150, 201, 228
Indiana, 243n
Sandwich, George Montagu, 6th Earl of, 66
satin, 68, 112, 114, 123, 125, 129, 132, 138, 152, 153, 158, 160, 230, 235, 236
scarves, 62, 66, 96, 122, 160, 208, 210, 219, 220, 242
Schiaparelli, Elsa 15
Schwiter, Baron, 22
Scott, Sir Walter, 74
Second Empire, 4, 31, 42, 91, 102, 160
Self-portrait, 1, 240n
Self-portrait (pl. 8), 19, 20
Senonnes, Marie Marcoz, vicomtesse de (pls 107–10, 156), 26, 41, 76, 91, 110, 112, 129, 132, 132, 134, 136, 137, 138, 147, 148, 156, 180, 188, 190, 192, 244n
Senonnes, vicomte de, 132, 244n
sensuality/eroticism, 2, 3, 36, 156, 160, 175, 176, 179, 186, 188, 194, 197, 199, 200, 211, 219, 231, 235, 236, 247n
‘7 heures du soir’ (pl. 18: engraving), 41
Seraglio palace, Constantinople, 213, 214, 217
Sévigné, Madame de, 148
shawls (schall), 1, 17, 42, 44, 48, 49, 54, 58, 62, 64, 66, 70, 84, 91, 114, 125, 128, 141, 146, 152, 175, 186, 188, 192, 219
cashmere, 98, 98, 100, 100, 102, 112, 129, 136, 141, 175, 179, 184, 188, 192, 246–7n
Paisley design, 188, 247n
Persian, 188
shifts (chemises), 40, 173, 219, 220, 225, 230, 234, 248n
shoes/slippers see footwear
silk, 62, 66, 70, 72, 84, 128, 140, 141, 146, 147, 153, 163, 167, 168, 173, 208, 214, 220, 230, 235; see also brocade; damask; satins; velvet
Silvestre, Théophile, 19, 22, 25, 239n
Simon, Marie, 156
Sizeranne, Robert de la, 20, 22
skirts, 49, 83, 84, 88, 163, 167
crinolines, 12, 23, 42, 42, 43, 84, 86, 88, 89, 243n
flounced, 58–9, 83, 84, 89, 173
trimmings at hem, 66
Sleeper of Naples, 228, 248n
Sleeping Odalisque, 248n
sleeves, 48, 58, 70, 70, 72, 74, 76–7, 78, 81, 94, 100, 110, 125, 138, 148, 173
à la folle, 74
à la pagode, 88
à la Renaissance, 68, 110
aerophanes (over-sleeves), 114
epaulettes, 68, 110, 114, 119
gigot, 72, 138
Venetian, 163
Small Bather, or Interior of the Harem (pls 177), 217, 220, 220, 224, 225, 248n
Smith, Francis, Eastern Costumes, 208
Turkish Dancer before her Master (pl. 175), 220, 220, 226, 235
smoking by Turkish women, 228, 230
sortie de bal (evening wrap), 123, 160, 162, 163, 184, 244n
La Source, 4
Spanish style, 120, 122
spencer (bodice), 55, 66, 68, 242n
Staél, Madame de, 143
Stanhope, Lady Hester, 247n
Stendhal (Marie Henri Beyle), 9, 10, 44, 188, 231
De l’Amour, 9, 35
Rome, Naples and Florence in 1817, 66, 127
Le Rouge et le Noir, 239n
stoles, 64; palatines, 94, 186
Taine, Hippolyte-Adolphe, 13
The Ideal in Art, 10
Notes on Paris, 9–10, 120
Thomegeux, Pyrame, 114
Thoré, Théophile, 147, 152, 231, 237, 245n
Tintoretto, Jacopo, 152
tippet, white swansdown, 96
Titian, 23, 228, 245n
Venus of Urbino, 228, 248n
toilettes, 9–10, 13, 15, 20, 24, 31, 39, 40–41, 42, 43, 49, 84, 86, 102, 112, 119, 143, 182
de soirée, 153, 156, 163
de ville, 44; grandes, 5
Tolstoy, Leo, War and Peace, 36, 38
The Tomb of the Lady Jane Montagu, study for (pl. 83), 104, 104–5
Tournon, Alix-Geneviève de Seytres-Caumont, comtesse de (pls 105, 157), 98, 112, 129, 129, 188, 190
Tournon, Baron Camille de, 129
Tournoüer, Cécile-Marie Panckoucke, Madame (pl. 70), 88, 88, 89
Toussaint, Hélène, 98, 100
Trollope, Frances, Paris and the Parisians in 1835, 35
trousers, Turkish baggy (shalwar), 214, 235
tunique, 49, 105
turbans, 112, 208, 210, 214, 219, 220, 225, 228, 247
‘Judith’, 210
Turkish/Ottoman customs and costumes, 3, 197, 199, 200, 203–36
‘Turkish Woman Going to the Baths’ see Nicolay
Turkish women, drawings of by Ingres (pls 172a and b), 215, 231
turquerie, 52, 205, 208
La Turquie: moeurs et usages des orientaux, 216–17
Universal Exhibition (1855), Paris, 10, 33, 44, 45, 158, 168, 230, 239n
Ingres’s retrospective at, 94
Unknown Woman (pl. 33), 55, 56, 59
Unknown Woman (pl. 58), 77
Unknown Woman (pl. 145), 179, 180
Uzanne, Octave, 34
Van Dyck, Sir Anthony, 23, 132
Van Eyck, Jan, Ghent Altarpiece, 195
Vanmour, Jean-Baptiste, 207–8
Femme Turque qui fume sur le Sopha (pl. 184), 228, 230
Femme Turque qui repose sur le Sopha sortant du bain (pl. 179), 222, 225
Filie Turque à qui l’on tresse les cheveux au bain (pl. 176), 220, 220;
Filie Turque jouant du Téhégour (pl. 187), 233, 235
veils, 62, 96, 195, 179
yasmak, 214, 226
Velazquez, Diego Rodriguez de Silva, The Rokeby Venus, 199
velvet, 107, 108, 112, 114, 119, 120, 122, 125, 128, 129, 132, 134, 136, 147, 152, 156, 163, 205, 208, 230, 235, 236, 245n
Venus Anadyoméne, 152
Venus de Milo, 231, 232
Vermeer, Jan, 173
Vernet, Horace, 49, 61; watercolour for a merveilleuse (pl. 36), 62
Veronese, 12
Vesey, Emily La Touche, Lady (pl. 38), 61
Victoria, Queen, 108
Vigne, Georges, 248n
Vignon, Madame, 44
visite, three-quarter length jacket, 125
waist, waistline, 48, 49, 58, 70, 76, 81, 83, 100
Walewski, Alexandre, 66
Watteau, Jean-Antoine, 47
white, women in 91, 93–105
Winterhalter, Franz Xavier, 12, 86, 102, 143, 163
Empress Eugénie, 10
Madame Moitessier, 246n
Princess Leonilla of Sayn-Wittgenstein-Sayn (pl. 171), 211–12, 212
working-class clothing, 10
Worth, Charles Frederick (Maison Worth), 13, 31, 42, 43, 44, 88, 91, 102, 242n
yasmak (double veil), 214, 226
Zo, Achille, Le Rêve du croyant (pl. 165), 204, 204