Checklist of the Exhibition

4. Woman’s scarf, “Save and Salvage for Victory”
Designed by Arnold Lever for Jacqmar
Britain, early 1940s
Block-printed rayon; 26 × 27 in.
Collection Paul and Karen Rennie, London
(Fig. 13-80)

5. Woman’s scarf, “Ships and Compass”
Produced by Echo Scarves
United States, 1940s
Printed rayon; 25 × 25 in.
Collection Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum, Smithsonian
Institution, New York. Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Simeon Braguin (acc. no. 1981.11.39)
(Fig. 1-1)

MODERNITY

6. Woman’s haori, “The Thrill of Flight”
Japan, late 1920s–early 1930s
Meisen (warp-printed silk); 49 ⅝ x 36 ⅝ in.
Collection Minoru, Akemi, and Atsushi Narita, Yokohama
(Fig. 7-3)

7. Omiyamairi, “Airplanes at Dawn”
Japan, 1930s
Yūzen-dyed habutae silk with embroidery; 39 × 33 ½ in.
Collection Kozuka Kazuko, Saitama
(Fig. 2-18)

8. Woman’s kimono, “Aeroplane,” and obi, “Propeller”
Kimono: Japan, late 1920s–early 1930s; obi: Japan, ca. 1930
Kimono: kasuri-dyed silk; obi: printed silk; kimono: 58 ¼ × 48 ¼ in.; obi: 130 × 12 ¼ in.
Collection Tanaka Yoku, Tokyo
(Fig. 13-11)

9. Woman’s summer kimono, “Airplanes,” and obi, “Parachute”
Kimono: Japan, 1930s; obi: Japan, 1920s
Kimono: kasuri-dyed ro; obi: yūzen-dyed silk; kimono: 59 × 48 in.; obi: 130 × 12 ¼ in.
Collection Tanaka Yoku, Tokyo
(Fig. 13-12)

10. Nagajuban textile, “Graf Zeppelin”
Japan, ca. 1929
Printed wool muslin; 21 ¼ × 14 ⅛ in.
Collection Tanaka Yoku, Tokyo
(Fig. 13-1)

11. Haura for a man’s haori, “Urban Scene”
Japan, ca. 1930
Haori: black silk; haura: yūzen-dyed silk; haori: 42 × 53 in.; haura: 21 ¼ × 24 ⅜ in.
Collection Sasagawa Taroh, Niigata
(Fig. 7-1)

12. Man’s haori with “Kamikaze” haura
Japan, ca. 1937.
Haori: black silk; haura: yūzen-dyed silk; naon: 40 × 51 ½ in.; haura: 20 ½ × 25 ¼ in.
Collection Hirai Sachiko, Tokyo
(Fig. 13-13)

13. Haori with “Mantetsu” haura
Japan, early 1930s
Haori: black silk; haura: yūzen-dyed silk; haori: 41 ½ × 51 in.; haura: 22 × 21 ¾ in.
Collection Tanaka Yoku, Tokyo
(Fig. 4-9)

14. Furoshiki (wrapping cloth), “Mitsubishi Bomber”
Japan, 1930s
Yūzen-dyed artificial silk; 29 ¼ × 29 ¼ in.
Collection Tanaka Yoku, Tokyo
(Fig. 4-12)

15. Omiyamairi, “Modern Military”
Japan, 1930s
Printed silk; 36 ¾ × 33 in.
Collection Sasagawa Taroh, Niigata
(Fig. 13-14)

16. Boy’s kimono, “Projector”
Japan, 1930s
Printed wool muslin; 30 ¼ × 31 in.
Collection Hirai Sachiko, Tokyo
(Fig. 13-16)

17. Woman’s scarf, “Jacqmar Presents Good Night Everybody”
Produced by Jacqmar
Britain, ca. 1940
Printed rayon; 32 ¾ × 32 ¾ in.
Collection Imperial War Museum, London (acc. no. 4004)
(Fig. 5-11)

18. Scarf, “Playbills and Film”
Designed and produced by Echo Scarves
United States, ca. 1939
Printed rayon; 21 × 19 ¼ in.
Collection Allentown Art Museum, Allentown, Pennsylvania. Gift of Kate Fowler Merle-Smith, 1974 (acc. no. 78.26.550)
(Fig. 13-17)

TRADITION

19. Woman’s nagajuban, “Koi and Soldier Ningyō”
Japan, late 1930s
Printed wool muslin; 46 × 49 ½ in.
Collection Hirai Sachiko, Tokyo
(Fig. 13-19)

20. Young boy’s lightly padded formal kimono (haregi), “Samurai and Soldiers”
Japan, 1930s
Printed silk; 33 ¼ × 32 ¾ in.
Collection Hirai Sachiko, Tokyo
(Fig. 9-9)

21. Young boy’s haregi, “Mount Fuji and Warplanes”
Japan, late 1930s
Printed silk with light padding; 33 ¾ x 32½ in.
Collection Tanaka Yoku, Tokyo
(Fig. 8-9)

22. Kimono fabric, “Momotarō and Kintarō”
Japan, ca. 1936
Printed muslin; 35 ¾ × 14 ¾ in.
Collection Sasagawa Taroh, Niigata
(Fig. 13-18)

23. Woman’s scarf, “England expects every man to do his duty”
Designed by Arnold Lever for Jacqmar
Britain, early 1940s
Printed rayon; 12 × 1 2 in.
Collection Tim Lever, Beachampton
(Fig. 13-21)

24. Woman’s scarf, “Declaration of Independence”
United States, 1940–41
Printed silk; 35 × 34 in.
Collection Allentown Art Museum, Allentown, Pennsylvania. Gift of Kate Fowler Merle-Smith (acc. no.78.26.511)
(Fig. 13-22)

EMPIRE

25. Adult nagajuban, “Great Wall and Airplanes”
Japan, ca. 1941
Printed sūfū (staple fiber); 49 ½ × 45 in.
Collection Okunishi Michiko and Makoto, Osaka
(Fig. 13-31a)

26. Original cartoon used for kimono design
Japan, 1930s
Paint on paper; 24 ¼ × 15 ¾ in.
Collection Shiorian Kimono Gallery, Kyoto
(Fig. 13-31b)

27. Man’s nagajuban “Manchuria”
Japan, early to mid-1930s
Yūzen-dyed silk; 51 ½ × 50 in.
Collection Hirai Sachiko, Tokyo
(Fig. 13-27)

28. Man’s nagajuban, “Manchukuo”
Japan, ca. 1932
Printed silk; 52 ¾ × 51 in.
Collection Okunishi Michiko and Makoto, Osaka
(Fig. 1-4, 9-13)

29. Man’s “Dreaming of Empire” haori with haura
Japan, 1930s
Haori: black silk; haura: yūzen-dyed silk; haori: 40 ½ × 50 ½ in.; haura: 20 ¼ × 25 in.
Collection Hirai Sachiko, Tokyo
(Fig. 13-2)

30. Woman’s chrysanthemum haori with haura showing
Japanese and Manchukuo flags
Japan, 1930s
Haori: yūzen-dyed silk crepe; haura: printed silk; haori: 38 ½ × 51 in.; haura: 19 ½ × 24 ⅛ in.
Collection Nagata Ranko, Tokyo
(Fig. 13-28)

31. Kimono textile, Japanese and Manchurian children at play
Japan, 1930s
Printed silk; 14 × 25 in.
Private collection, New York
(Fig. 13-29)

32. Juban skirt
Japan, late 1930s
Printed wool muslin; 51 × 31 in. (one panel)
Collection Hirai Sachiko, Tokyo
(Fig. 13-30)

33. Boy’s kimono, “Flags of Empire”
Japan, late 1930s
Meisen; 39 ¾ × 29 ⅜ in.
Collection Don Cohn
(Fig. I-11)

34. Child’s kimono, “Children on an Ox Wheel”
Japan, ca. 1942
Printed jinken (artificial silk); 32× 31 ¼ in.
Collection Hirai Sachiko, Tokyo
(Fig. 13-33)

35. Woman’s blouse with RAAF and British Commonwealth Forces motifs
Australia, 1940s
Printed rayon; size unknown
Collection Allentown Art Museum, Allentown, Pennsylvania. Gift of Kate Fowler Merle-Smith, 1974 (acc. no. 1978.26.520)
(Fig. 13-35)

36. Woman’s scarf, “Into Battle” (Army)
Produced by Jacqmar
Britain, 1942–43
Rayon; 31 ⅞ × 35 in.
Collection Imperial War Museum, London (acc. no. 673)
(Fig. 11-3a)

37. Basuto blanket, “Airplane Propellers”
Britain, 1940s
Printed wool; 54 × 54 in.
Collection Target Gallery, London
(Fig. 13-36)

38. Man’s haori, with “Soldiers in Taiwan” haura
Japan, ca. 1930
Haori: black silk; haura: yūzen-dyed silk; haori: 48 × 62 in.; haura: 27 × 26 in.
Collection Ichida Hiromi, Kyoto
(Fig. 13-25)

PATRIOTISM

39. Furoshiki, “Banzai!”
Japan, ca. 1938
Printed silk; 29 × 29 in.
Private collection, New York
(Fig. 13-57)

40. Boy’s kimono, “Bugler”
Japan, late 1930s
Printed wool muslin; 51 ½ x 47 ¾ in.
Collection Minoru, Akemi, and Atsushi Narita, Yokohama
(Fig. 13-56)

41. Girl’s Shichigosan kimono
Japan, 1930s
Printed synthetic silk; 46 × 43 ⅜ in.
Collection Nagata Ranko, Tokyo
(Fig. 9-11)

42. Child’s wataire kimono, “2600 Years”
Japan, 1940
Printed wool muslin; 29 ½ x 29 ¼ in.
Collection Shiorian Gallery, Kyoto
(Fig. 9-17, 13-58)

43. Man’s tie, “There’ll Always be an England”
Britain, ca. 1940–41
Printed silk; 5 × 30 in.
Collection Allentown Art Museum, Allentown, Pennsylvania. Gift of Kate Fowler Merle-Smith (acc. no. 78.26.500)
(Fig. 13-61)

44. Woman’s dress, “Dig for Victory”
Britain, early 1940s
Printed rayon; size unknown
Collection Imperial War Museum, London (acc. no. EPH 6392)
(Fig. 13-60)

45. Man’s handkerchief, “Union Jack”
Britain, 1940s
Printed cotton; 20 ½ x 20 ½ in.
Private collection, New York
(Fig. 13-59)

46. Scarf, “Star-Spangled Banner”
Designed and produced by Echo Scarves
United States, 1940–41
Printed rayon; 26 × 25 ⅛ in.
Collection Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum, Smithsonian Institution, New York. Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Simeon Braguin (acc. no. 1981.11.45)
(Fig. 13-7)

47. Woman’s scarf, “Pledge of Allegiance”
Produced by Echo Scarves
United States, 1940–41
Printed rayon; 26 ½ x 24 ½ in.
Collection Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum, Smithsonian Institution, New York. Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Simeon Braguin (acc. no.1981.11.47)
(Fig. 13-62)

MILITARISM

48. Woman’s nagajuban, “Mementos of War”
Japan, 1930s
Printed silk; 51 ¾ × 45 ¾ in.
Collection Tanaka Yoku, Tokyo
(Fig. 13-45)

49. Man’s nagajuban, “Banzai Soldiers”
Japan, 1930s
Printed wool muslin; 53 × 51 in.
Collection Nagata Ranko, Tokyo
(Fig. 13-47)

50. Man’s haori’ with “Battleships near China” haura
Japan, late 1930s
Printed silk; haori: 51 ¼ × 40 ⅞ in.; haura: 23 ⅝ × 22 in.
Private collection, New York
(Fig. 2-15)

51. Man’s/boy’s brown haori with lining of tanks, guns, etc.
Japan, ca. 1932
Cotton/printed wool muslin; 50 × 52 ½ in.
Private collection, New York
(Fig. 13-48)

52. Man’s haori with “Explosion” haura
Japan, early 1930s
Haori: black silk; haura: printed silk; haori: 39 × 54 in.; haura: 39 ½ x 52 ¾ in.
Collection Hirai Sachiko, Tokyo
(Fig. 1-3)

53. Remnant of haori lining fabric
Japan, early 1930s
Printed silk; 14 ½ x 35 ½ in.
Private collection, New York
(Fig. 13-50)

54. Omiyamairi, “Cavalry Officer in China”
Japan, 1930s
Painted and embroidered silk; 41 ⅛ x 34 ⅜in.
Private collection, New York
(Fig. 8-10)

55. Omiyamairi, “Tank and Soldiers”
Japan, late 1930s
Yūzen-dyed and painted silk with embroidery; 37 ¼ x 33 ¼ in.
Collection Don Cohn
(Fig. 13-37)

56. Omiyamairi, “Soldiers at War”
Japan, ca. 1940
Yūzen-dyed and painted artificial silk; 53 ¾ × 45 ⅝ in.
Collection Minoru, Akemi, and Atsushi Narita, Yokohama
(Fig. I-7)

57. Omiyamairi, “Ningyō” (military men)
Japan, 1930s
Yūzen-dyed silk; 39 × 34 ¼ in.
Collection Mahoroba Oito Antiques, Kyushu
(Fig. 13-41)

58. Child’s haregi, “Images of War”
Japan, late 1930s
Printed artificial silk; 32 × 34 ¾ in.
Private collection, New York
(Fig. 7-8)

59. Kimono, “Norakuro”
Japan, 1930s
Cotton niko-kiko kasuri; 30 × 29 ½ in.
Collection Tanaka Yoku, Tokyo.
(Fig. 13-107)

60. Child’s padded kimono, “Army Toys”
Japan, early 1930s
Printed silk lined with cotton and muslin; 27 × 25 ½ in.
Collection Hirai Sachiko, Tokyo
(Fig. 13-39)

61. Child’s kimono, “Nanking Occupied”
Japan, 1937
Printed wool muslin; 25 × 28 ⅗ in.
Private collection, New York
(Fig. 4-4)

62. Poster for the movie The Story of Tank Commander Nishizumi (Nishizumi senshachō-den)
Japan, 1940
Print on paper
Private collection, New York
(Fig. 4-18)

63. Woman’s nagajuban, “Children Playing at War”
Japan, early 1930s
Printed wool muslin; 50 × 50 ½ in.
Collection Sasagawa Taroh, Niigata
(Fig. 13-46)

64a. Woman’s kimono, “Airplanes and Clouds”
Japan, early 1930s
Shibori chirimen; 46 ⅞ × 56 ¼ in.
Collection John Weber, New York (acc. no. JT216)
(Fig. 2-16)

64b. Nagoya obi “Aikoku Kōshinkyoku” (Patriotic March)
Japan, late 1930s
Printed artificial silk; 9 ft. 20 × 1 2 in.
Private collection, New York
(Fig. 2-16)

65a. Woman’s kimono and han-eri with airplanes
Japan, 1930s
Kimono: silk: Han-eri: woven silk; kimono: 59 × 48 in. han-eri: 10 ft. 10 in. × 12 ¼ in.
Collection Tanaka Yoku, Tokyo

65b. Nagoya obi, “Warplanes in Action”
Japan, 1930s
Woven silk with metallic threads; 10 ft. 10 in. × 12 ¼ in.
Collection Tanaka Yoku, Tokyo
(Fig. 13-43)

66. Obi, “Marching Soldiers”
Japan, 1930s
Printed artificial silk with embroidery; 10 ft. 7 in. × 11 ¾ in.
Collection Sasagawa Taroh, Niigata (acc. no. K-89)
(Fig. 13-44)

67. Maru obi, “Airplanes and Warships”
Japan, 1930s
Yūzen-dyed silk with embroidery in metallic threads; 84 × 11 ½ in.
Private collection, New York
(Fig. 7-14)

68. Blouse, “The Navy’s Here”
Designed by Arnold Lever for Jacqmar
Britain, 1940–41
Printed rayon; size unknown
Collection Target Gallery, London
(Fig. 10-20)

69. Service scarf, “Combined Operations” (Army, Navy, and Air Force)
Produced by Jacqmar
Britain, 1942–43
Rayon; 33 ⅛ x 33 ⅛ in.
Collection Paul and Karen Rennie, London
(Fig. 11-3c)

70a. Child’s handkerchief, “Playing at War”
Possibly Britain, 1930s
Printed cotton; 9 × 9 in.
Private collection, New York
(Fig. 13-51a)

70b. Child’s handkerchief, “Playing at War”
Possibly Britain, 1930s
Printed cotton, 9 × 9 in.
Collection Teresa Barkley, New Jersey
(Fig. 13-51b)

71. Textile, “Battle of Britain”
Produced by Calico
Printers Association, possibly for the African market
Britain, 1940s
Printed cotton; 46 ¾ × 36 ½ in.
Collection Museum of London, London (acc. no. 2002.105)
(Fig. 5-2)

72. Scarf, “Fighting Words”
Designed and produced by Echo Scarves
United States, 1940–41
Printed rayon; 25 × 24 ½ in.
Collection Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum, Smithsonian Institution, New York. Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Simeon Braguin (acc. no.1981.11.36)
(Fig. 13-8)

73. Woman’s scarf, “Army Air Corps”
Produced by Echo Scarves
United States, 1940–41
Printed rayon; 24 ¼ × 25 in.
Collection Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum, Smithsonian Institution, New York. Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Simeon Braguin (acc. no. 1981.11.42)
(Fig. 13-52)

74. Woman’s scarf, “Salute to Armed Forces”
Produced by Brico
United States, 1940s
Printed rayon; 22 × 22 in.
Collection New-York Historical Society, New York (acc. no.1941.388)
(Fig. 13-54)

75. Dress fabric, “Military in Action”
United States, 1940s
Printed rayon; fabric width: 38 in.
Collection Nancy Lee Chong, Woodville, Washington
(Fig. I-9)

76. Woman’s scarf, “Twelfth Air Force”
United States, ca. 1942
Printed rayon; 35 ⅜ × 32 ¼ in.
Private collection, New York
(Fig. 13-55)

77. Women war workers riveting a section of aircraft wing.
United States, ca. 1943
Collection Walter P. Reuther Library, Wayne State University
(Fig. 2-19)

LEADERS/HEROES/ENEMIES

78. Boy’s kimono with marching children and Nijū Bridge
Japan, 1930s
Printed wool muslin with muslin and cotton lining; 32 ½ x 27 ½ in.
Collection Okunishi Michiko and Makoto, Osaka
(Fig. 13-68)

79. Man’s haori with “Bakudan Sanyūshi” haura
Japan, ca. 1932
Haori: black silk; haura: yūzen-dyed silk; haori: 43 ½ × 51 ½ in.
Collection Tanaka Yoku, Tokyo
(Fig. 13-70a)

80. Nagajuban, “Bakudan Sanyūshi”
Japan, ca. 1932
Printed silk; 39 ¼ x 53 ½ in.

Collection Okunishi Michiko and Makoto, Osaka
(Fig. 13-70b)

81. Original cartoon used for “Bakudan Sanyūshi” design
Japan, ca. 1932
Paint on paper; 25 ½ x 13 ¾ in.
Collection Shiorian Gallery, Kyoto
(Fig. 13-70c)

82. Man’s haori with haura showing curve of globe and newspaper images of Churchill and Roosevelt
Japan, early 1940s
Haori: black silk; haura: yūzen-dyed silk with metallic threads; haori: 41 ½ × 52 in.; haura: 20 × 23 ⅝ in.
Collection Sasagawa Taroh, Niigata
(Fig. 13-64)

83. Kimono fabric, “Admiral Tōgō Memorial”
Japan, ca. 1934
Printed muslin; 13 ½ x 23 in.
Collection Alan Marcuson & Diane Hall, London
(Fig. 13-69)

84. Woman’s scarf with Churchill images and quotes
Produced by Filmyra
Britain, 1940s.
Printed rayon 33 ⅜ × 35 in.
Collection Allentown Art Museum, Allentown, Pennsylvania. Gift of Kate Fowler Merle-Smith, 1974 (acc. no. 1978.26.503)
(Fig. 13-71)

85. Woman’s scarf, “Churchill”
Britain, 1940
Printed rayon; 26 × 26 in.
Collection Karen and Paul Rennie, London
(Fig. 13-72)

86. “Heroes”; detail of “Kent’s Cloth of the United Nations” Photographic reproduction
Private collection, New York
(Fig. 13-73)

87. Woman’s scarf, “You Never Know Who’s Listening”
Designed by Fougasse, possibly produced by Jacqmar
Britain, ca. 1940
Printed cotton; 25 ⅛ × 25 ⅛ in.
Collection Allentown Art Museum, Allentown, Pennsylvania. Gift of Kate Fowler Merle-Smith, 1974 (acc. no. 1978.26.541)
(Fig. 2-1)

88. Woman’s scarf, “Run Adolf Run”
Britain, 1940s
Printed silk; 26 × 25 in.
Collection Paul and Karen Rennie, London
(Fig. 13-65)

89. “Bad Eggs”; detail of “Kent’s Cloth of the United Nations” Photographic reproduction
Private collection, New York
(Fig. 13-66)

SACRIFICE

90. Evening blouse, belt, and handbag made from ration book print Textile produced by the Calico
Printers Association
Britain, 1940s
Printed rayon crepe; belt: plastic; blouse: 22 ¾ × 13 in.; belt: length 36 ¼ in.; handbag: 8 ½ x 13 ½ in.
Collection The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Gift of Julia B. Henry, 1978 (acc. no. 1978.288.23abcde)
(Fig. 13-77)

91. Photograph of the actress Vivien Leigh wearing a blouse made from the “66 Coupons” textile
Designed by Arnold Lever for Jacqmar
Collection Tim Lever, Beachampton
(Fig. 2-21)

92. Dress fabric (sample swatch), “66 Coupons”
Designed by Arnold Lever for Jacqmar
Britain, 1941
Printed silk; 7 ¼ x 9 in.
Collection Tim Lever, Beachampton
(Fig. 13-5)

93. Woman’s scarf, “Switch off that Light, Darling”
Britain, 1940s
Printed rayon; 37 × 34 ⅜ in.
Collection Paul and Karen Rennie, London
(Fig. 5-19)

94. Woman’s scarf, “Salvage Your Rubber”
Designed by Arnold Lever for Jacqmar
Britain, early 1940s
Block-printed rayon; 36 × 33 ⅜ in.
Collection Paul and Karen Rennie, London
(Fig. 13-79)

95. Scarf, “London Can Take It”
Designed by Nicol V. Gray
Britain, ca. 1941
Hand-printed rayon; 28 × 28 in.
Collection Museum of London (acc. no. 79.341)
(Fig. 13-6)

96. Woman’s scarf, “Ration Books”
Produced by Echo Scarves
United States, early 1940s
Printed rayon; 25 ⅝ × 26 ⅝ in.
Collection Allentown Art Museum, Allentown, Pennsylvania. Gift of Kate Fowler Merle-Smith (acc. no. 1978.26.539)
(Fig. 13-81)

97. Man’s nagajuban, “Fortunes of War”
Japan, late 1930s
Printed wool muslin; 51 ½ x 49 ¾ in.
Collection Hirai Sachiko, Tokyo
(Fig. 13-74)

98. Man’s haori with “Bakudan Sanyūshi” haura
Japan, ca. 1932
Haori: black silk; haura: yūzen-dyed silk; haori: 42 ¼ × 51 ¼ in.; haura: 20 ⅜ x 25 ¼ in.
Collection Hirai Sachiko, Tokyo
(Fig. 13-75)

99. Boy’s kimono showing pilots and parachutes
Japan, late 1930s
Printed wool muslin; 32 × 33 in.
Collection Alan Marcuson & Diane Hall, London
(Fig. 13-76)

ALLIES

100. Girl’s haregi, “Tripartite”
Japan, 1940–41
Printed jinken (artificial silk); 31 × 30 ¾in.
Collection Hirai Sachiko, Tokyo
(Fig. 13-82)

101. Boy’s haori with lining showing Tripartite flags and Mount Fuji
Japan, early 1940s
Haori: cotton kasuri; lining: printed cotton; 27 ½ x 37 in.
Collection Okunishi Michiko and Makoto, Osaka
(Fig. 13-84)

102. Woman’s summer kimono, “Nazi and Japanese Flags”
Japan, ca. 1940
Kasuri silk gauze; 52 ½ × 46in.
Collection Ichida Hiromi, Kyoto
(Fig. 13-86)

103. Scarf, “Shoulder to Shoulder”
Produced by Jacqmar,
Britain, 1942
Printed rayon; 35 ½ × 35 ½ in.
Collection Metropolitan Museum of Art. Gift of Mrs. Otis Guernsey Jr., 1990 (acc. no. 1990.181.2)
(Fig. I-3)

104. Woman’s scarf, “Lend Lease”
Produced by Jacqmar
Britain, 1940s
Block-printed silk; 26 ⅛ × 24⅝ in.
Collection Allentown Art Museum, Allentown, Pennsylvania. Gift of Kate Fowler Merle-Smith (acc. no. 1978.26.499)
(Fig. 6-3)

105. Home Front scarf, “London 1944”
Designed by Feliks Topolski for Ascher
Britain, 1944
Rayon; 34 × 31 ⅞ in.
Collection Target Gallery, London
(Fig. 11-7)

106. Women’s dress fabric, “Division Hats,” in two colors
United States, ca. 1941
Printed rayon; 36 in. wide
Collection Allentown Art Museum, Allentown, Pennsylvania. Gift of Kate Fowler Merle-Smith, 1974 (acc. no. 78.26.528/529)
(Fig. 13-89)

107. Feed-sack fabric, “Kent’s Cloth of the United Nations”
United States, ca. 1944
Printed cotton; 36 × 37 in.
Private collection, New York
(Fig. 13-91)

108. Adult nagajuban, “Italy in Ethiopia”
Japan, 1935–40
Printed wool muslin; 52 ¾ × 52 ½ in.
Collection Kogireikai Auction House, Kyoto
(Fig. 13-88)

SLOGANS

109. Boy’s kimono, “Heitai, Arigato”
Japan, 1930s
Printed wool muslin; 29 ½ × 28 ½ in.
Collection Alan Marcuson & Diane Hall, London
(Fig. 13-94)

110. Short jacket with “Hijōji Nihon” (Emergency Japan) lining
Japan, late 1930s
Outer jacket: indigo-dyed cotton; lining: printed wool muslin; 32 ½ x 48 in.
Collection Hirai Sachiko, Tokyo
(Fig. 13-92)

111. Child’s wataire kimono, “Hakkō Ichiu”
Japan, ca. 1940
Printed silk with lining; 30 × 27 ¾ in.
Collection Sasagawa Taroh, Niigata
(Fig. 9-18, 13-93)

112. Woman’s dress with belt, “Air Raid Warning” fabric
Designed by Arnold Lever for Jacqmar
Britain, ca. 1944
Block-printed silk; dress: 39 × 14 in.; belt: length 27 in.
Collection The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Gift of Mrs. Otis Guernsey Jr. (acc. no.1990.181.1 ab)
(Fig. 13-98)

113. Woman’s dress, “Happy Landings”
Designed by Arnold Lever for Jacqmar
Britain, 1940s
Printed silk; size 8
Collection Imperial War Museum, London (acc. no. EPH 1847)
(Fig. 5-9)

114. Jacket and dress, “You Never Know Who’s Listening”
Designed by Fougasse Possibly produced by Jacqmar
Britain, ca. 1940
Printed rayon crepe; 19 × 17 in.
Collection Victoria and Albert Museum, London (acc.nos.T-23-1895; T-23 1895A)
(Fig. 13-100)

115. Woman’s scarf, “Keep It Under Your Hat”
Design by Arnold Lever, produced by Reid and Taylor for Jacqmar
Britain, early 1940s
Printed rayon; 28 × 28 in.
Collection Imperial War Museum, London (acc. no. EPH 3211)
(Fig. 13-101)

116. Arnold Lever, sketch for “Keep It Under Your Hat”
Britain, ca. 1940
Pen and watercolor on paper; 9 ½ × 8 in.
Collection Tim Lever, Beachampton
(Fig. 2-6)

117. “Keep It Under Your Stetson”
Wartime magazine advertisement produced by Stetson Hat Company
United States, 1940s
14 ⅛ x 10 ½ in.
Private collection, New York
(Fig. 2-7)

118. Woman’s dress fabric, “London Wall”
Designed by Arnold Lever for Jacqmar
Britain, ca. 1940
Block-printed silk; 18 ¾ x 38 in.
Collection Allentown Art Museum, Allentown, Pennsylvania (acc. no. 78.26.443.1)
(Fig. 13-96)

119. Woman’s scarf, “London Wall”
Designed by Arnold Lever for Jacqmar
Britain, 1940s
Block-printed silk crepe; 36 × 36 in.
Collection Tim Lever, Beachampton
(Fig. 13-97)

120. Women hemming squares of Jacqmar’s “London Wall” textile for scarves
Britain, 1940
Collection Tim Lever, Arnold Lever Archives, Beachampton Photographer unknown
(Fig. 2-8)

121. Woman’s scarf, “Remember Pearl Harbor”
Produced by Echo Scarves
United States, early 1940s
Printed rayon; 22 ¾ × 24 ⅞ in.
Collection Allentown Art Museum, Allentown, Pennsylvania. Gift of Kate Fowler Merle-Smith, 1974 (acc. no. 1978.26.504)
(Fig. 13-103)

122. Woman’s scarf, “Air Raid Warning”
Produced by Echo Scarves
United States, early 1940s
Printed cotton; 26 × 26 ¼ in.
Collection Allentown Art Museum, Allentown, Pennsylvania. Gift of Kate Fowler Merle-Smith, 1974 (acc. no. 1978.26.502)
(Fig. 13-102)

123. Promotional fan, “We the Women of America: We Are Free”
Produced by Shulton, Inc.
United States, 1940s
Private collection, New York
(Fig. 2-1 2)

VICTORY

124. Furoshiki (wrapping cloth), “Fall of Nanking”
Japan, 1937
Printed artificial silk; 28 × 28 in.
Collection Wolfsonian-Florida International University, Miami (acc. no.TD1998.70.2)
(Fig. 1-5)

125. Child’s kimono, “Victory Forever”
Japan, 1930s
Printed muslin; 26 × 25 ⅝ in.
Private collection, New York
(Fig. 13-112)

126. Kimono/nagayufaan fabric, “Cheering Children”
Japan, 1930s
Printed muslin; 22 × 14 in.
Private collection, New York
(Fig. 13-111)

127. Man’s haori with haura showing banzai and battle
Japan, early 1930s
Haori: black silk; haura: yūzen-dyed silk; 37 ½ × 50 ½ in.
Collection Alan Marcuson & Diane Hall, London
(Fig. 13-113)

128. Woman’s dress fabric, “Flags of the Allies”
Britain, ca. 1945
Printed rayon crepe; 39 × 30 in.
Collection Imperial War Museum, London (acc. no. EPH 1067)
(Fig. 13-116)

129. Woman’s scarf, “Lauriers de la Victoire”
Produced by Jacqmar
Britain, 1945
Printed rayon/linen blend; 34 ¼ × 31 ½ in.
Collection Imperial War Museum, London (acc. no. EPH 1370)
(Fig. 13-117)

130. Woman’s scarf, “Après de la Guerre”
Britain, 1940s
Printed rayon/linen; 26 ⅝ × 26 ⅜ in.
Collection Museum of London, London (acc. no. 45.24)
(Fig. 2-5)

131. Yardage, “V for Victory”
Produced by the Calico Printers Association
Britain, 1940s
Printed cotton; 48 × 28 in.
Collection Victoria & Albert Museum, London (circ. 510-1974)
(Fig. 13-115)

132. Handkerchief, “V with Morse Code”
United States, 1940s
Printed cotton; 12 ¼ × 12 ½ in.
Private collection, New York
(Fig. 13-118)

133. Two dress fabrics, “V for Victory”
United States, 1940s
Printed rayon; each 36 × 36 in.
Collection Allentown Art Museum, Allentown, Pennsylvania. Gift of Kate Fowler Merle-Smith (acc. nos. 1978.26.478/ 484)
(Fig. 13-114)

134. Woman’s scarf, “PAX”

Possibly United States, 1945
Printed rayon; 28 ⅞ × 29 ⅞ in.
Collection Allentown Art Museum, Allentown, Pennsylvania.Gift of Kate Fowler Merle-Smith (acc. no. 1978.26.559)
(Fig. 1-9)

Objects from institutional lenders other than the Allentown Art Museum will be replaced in the traveling exhibition by comparable pieces from the Allentown Art Museum and lenders Paul and Karen Rennie and Alan Marcuson & Diane Hall.

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