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Index
Aileen Ribeiro
Description: The Art of Dress: Fashion in England and France, 1750 to 1820
The Art of Dress: Fashion in England and France, 1750 to 1820
Index
Author
Aileen Ribeiro
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 1995 by Yale University
Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-22508
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Index
Abington, Mrs Frances 13, 57, 65, 65–6, 71, 72, 80, 189
Abrantès, duchesse d’ 92, 120, 123, 128, 152, 160
Ackermann’s Repository of Arts 110, 221
Adam, Robert 210
Aken, Alexander van 8
Aken, Joseph van 8, 195, 200, 207
Albanian costume 223, 228
Albany, Countess of 205
Alexander I, Tsar 107, 230
Alison, Revd Archibald
Essay on the Nature and Principles of Taste 20
Of the Nature of the Emotions of Sublimity and Beauty 33
Allan, David
studies of historical costume 192
Ancaster, Duchess of 195, 197, 223
Ancien régime 29–31, 36–7, 50, 52, 83–4, 90–2, 94, 96, 120, 123, 147, 150, 154, 160, 235
Andrews, Revd John
Account of the Character and Manners of the French 36
Angelo, Henry 98
Reminiscences 115
Anglomania 49–50, 68, 76, 115
Angoulême, duchesse d’ 123, 174
Anti-Gallican Association 38
Antinous 18
Antiquity and dress 132, 135, 136–9, 140–2, 143, 144–6, 148, 183, 213, 219–20, 220, 221–3, 225, 228
Apollo Belvedere 18
Aprons 64, 69–70, 69, 110, 127
Arab dress 149
burnous 150
Archenholz, J. W. 71
Ariosto
Orlando Furioso 139
Armenian costume 4, 5
Arnault, Antoine-Vincent 92
Artist’s Repository and Drawing Magazine, The 10, 12
Artist’s Vade Mecum, The 195, 196
Artois, comte d’ 86, 89, 94, 140, 167
Aspasia 236
Aubry, Louis-François
Empress Josephine 173
Austen, Jane 30, 110–11
Mansfield Park 118
Bacon, John 27
Bags 70, 71
Bailly, Jean-Sylvain 84
Ballooning, influence on female headwear 74
Bals à la victime 91–2, 109
Bals masqués 120, 187
Bals parés 193
Balzac, Honoré de 18, 129
Banks, Thomas 27
Barbier et Tetard 42
Bardwell, Thomas
Anne, Countess of Strafford 191
Barker, Thomas
Self-portrait 212
Barker, William 66
Treatise on the Principles of Hair-Dressing 73
Baroque 165, 167, 188, 195, 205
Barry, Charlotte 12
Barry, Madame du 163, 167
Barthélemy, Jean-Jacques, abbé
Voyage du jeune Anacharsis en Grèce 138
Barthélemy, Jean-Simond
Entry into Paris of the French Army 170, 171
Barthes, Roland
Système de la mode, Le 76
Bath 46, 49, 205, 212
Bath, Lord 9
Batoni, Pompeo
John Scott 43, 45
Sir Henry Watkin Dashwood 33, 34, 46, 47
Thomas William Coke, 1st Earl of Leicester 205, 206, 207–8
Baudelaire, Charles 14, 20, 179
Painter of Modern Life, The 101
Bayard, chevalier 162, 170, 171
Bayeux Tapestry 123, 186
Beaulard 74
Beaumarchais, Pierre-Augustin Caron de
Barber of Seville, The 163
Marriage of Figaro, The 74, 163
Beaumont
Enciclopédie perruquière 40
Beaunier, M.-M.-F.
Recueil des costumes français 173
Beaver 49, 169
Beckford, William 228
Beechey, William 105, 115
Lady Burrell as Hebe 217
Lady Catherine Manners 126, 127
Sir John Reade 98–9, 99
Thomas Hope 228
Beerbohm, Max
Dandies and Dandies 101
Bentinck, Lord Frederick 104
Belloy, Dorment de
Gaston et Bayard 171
Siège de Calais 171
Bergeret, Pierre-Nolasque 5, 173
Studio of David, The 150, 151
Bertin, Rose 62, 73, 75–6, 89, 118
Bertrand, Louis
La Fin du classicisme et le retour à l’antique 135
Biennais, Martin-Guillaume 157
Blenheim Palace 195
Bodice (of women’s gowns) 217, 219
compère 57
Boleyn, Anne 187, 188, 189–91
Boigne, comtesse de 122–3, 162
Boilly, Louis-Léopold
Dead Mouse, The 86
Maximilien de Robespierre 84
‘Point de Convention’ 94
Simon Chenard as a Sans-culotte 146, 147
Bonaparte, Joseph 129, 161
Bonaparte, Pauline 160–1
Bonnet rouge 20, 95, 109, 140, 145–6
Boothby, Sir Brooke 48, 49, 52–3
Boots (men’s) 27, 30, 34, 35, 48–9, 95, 96–7, 102, 103, 153, 154, 165, 230
bucket-tops 210, 211
buskins 101, 115, 148, 149–50, 151
hessian 101, 105, 154, 155
hussar 148
top 95, 97, 101
Boots (women’s) 120
Boswell, James
Journal of a Tour of the Hebrides 1
‘On Luxury’ 29
Boucher, François 8, 12, 53–4, 136, 167, 22
Madame de Pompadour 6, 7, 53–4, 55–6
Bowyer’s Historic Gallery 190
Boydell, Alderman 190
Breeches, culottes 27, 35, 40, 42, 45, 48, 52, 53, 84, 85, 94–6, 98, 102, 104, 105, 141, 145, 154, 161, 162–3, 169, 175, 187, 188, 198, 204, 208–9, 211–12, 221, 222, 232
leather 34, 35, 48–9, 68, 97, 104
petticoat 204
Brighton 107
Brummell, George 99, 100, 101–4, 107, 127
Male and Female Costume 100, 221–2
Bryson, Norman 22
Buchan, Earl of 192
Buck, Adam
The Artist and his Family 219
Bum rolls 72
Bunbury, Henry William
Englishman at Paris, An 38, 39
Family Piece, A 8
Bunbury, Sir Charles 224
Burke, Edmund 78, 80
Burney, Fanny 30, 94, 187, 200
Camilla 110
Byron, Lord 101–2, 228, 230
Byzantine dress
paludamentum 157
Calonne, Charles-Alexandre de 50, 51
Campan, Madame 122, 137
Canes 78
Canova, Antonio 27
Caprara, Cardinal 161
Caps and bonnets (women’s) 13, 56–7, 58, 59, 66, 78, 86, 90, 110, 124–6, 222
Anne Boleyn 126
lappets 60, 62, 122
Mary Stuart 191, 192, 210, 211
Minerva 126
mob 126
poke 125, 126
turban 126, 127, 224
turban à la Raphael 180
Caps (men’s) 18, 23, 24, 52, 147, 230
beretta 176, 178
turban 52, 202, 219, 226, 227–8, 229–30
Caricatures 38–9, 39, 45, 49, 68, 78, 92, 96, 100, 103, 110, 125, 152, 185, 235
Carlyle, Thomas 53, 101, 147
Sartor Resartus 5–6, 30, 148
Caroline of Brunswick, Princess (later Queen) 99, 127– 8, 231
Carolingian empire 155
Carr, John 113,115,150–1
Carter, John 28
Casanova 236
Catherine of Württenberg, Queen of Westphalia 120
Caylus, comte de 140
Recueil d’antiquités 135
Cervantes
Don Quixote 165
Chambéry gauze and Canterbury muslin 118, 126
Charis 96
Charlemagne, Emperor 155, 157, 172
Charles I, King of Great Britain and Ireland 187–8, 204, 230, 234
Charles II, King of Great Britain and Ireland 200
Charles V, Emperor 174
Charles V, King of France 157,
Charles VII, King of France 170
Charles IX, King of France 150
Charles X, King of France 153
Charlotte, Queen 54, 61, 62, 65, 78, 208
Chateaubriand, François René, vicomte de 101, 102
Génie du christianisme, Le 172
Chatterton, Thomas 186–7
Chénier, M.-J.
Charles IX 150
Chesterfield, Lord 29, 100
Chinard, Joseph
Self-portrait 150, 151
Chinoiserie 54
Chodowiecki, Daniel
Natur und Afectation 3, 4
Cipriani, Giovanni Battista 73
Circassian costume 230
‘Classical’ dress 12, 13, 132, 133, 136, 139–42, 141, 143, 144, 149, 150, 153, 183, 202, 213, 216–17, 220–1, 221, 222–3
chiton 132, 136, 138, 140, 142, 143, 220
chlamys 132, 136, 140, 141, 157
himation 151
palla 145
pallium 150, 151
peplos 113, 220
peplum 220
plumed helmet 19, 188
sandals 157
state festivals 146, 149, 150
toga 142, 145, 149–53, 213, 221
tunic 19, 141–2, 144–7, 149, 150–3, 157, 158, 160–1, 170, 171, 188, 220, 222
Cloaks (men’s) 149, 150, 161, 162, 163, 167, 175, 179, 180, 184, 198, 213, 221, 222, 228, 232
lawyer 83
riding 95, 97
Vandyke 203, 205, 206, 207, 208–10
Cloaks (women’s) 73, 78–9, 110, 128, 159, 167, 217, 219
riding 35
Clovis 155, 172
Coats (men’s) 28, 39, 40, 42, 45, 49, 84, 85–6, 94–8, 99–100, 101, 102–3, 108, 109, 133, 148–9, 152, 212, 221, 222, 229–31
carrick 106, 107–8, 108
cut-away 106, 107, 154, 155, 212
dress 103, 104
frock 8, 34, 35, 39, 46, 48, 49, 53, 78, 96, 98
greatcoat 38, 39, 43, 49, 67–8, 99, 101, 102, 104, 107
habit 43, 45, 145, 153
habit dégagé 153, 154
houppelande 20, 21
Jean de Bry 99–100
justaucorps 43
morning 101, 103
pelisse 125
redingote 20, 43, 49, 85, 107
riding 67
tunic-coat 161, 162
Coats (women’s)
witzchoura 128
Cockade 85, 90–1, 95, 146, 147, 149, 150, 153, 154
Coke, Lady Mary 199
Coke Thomas William, 1st Earl of Leicester 205, 206, 207–8
Cole, William 39
Collars (men’s) 165, 166, 169, 173, 231
golilla 212
Vandyke 184, 187, 188, 204, 206, 207, 208–9, 210, 211, 229, 230
Collars (women’s) 163
‘baroque’ 195, 196
chérusque en fraise 122, 160, 169, 173, 174
Elizabethan 193
à la Médicis 159, 160, 169, 174–5, 193, 234
raised 195, 196–8
Vandyke 189, 192, 203
Collins, William 66
Colours
black 50, 101–2, 104, 107–8, 109, 163, 165, 167, 212, 218
green 94, 95, 180
pink 65, 208, 210
red 35, 163, 165, 167, 217, 226
white 70, 71–2, 89, 109, 115, 118, 119, 212, 217, 224
yellow 208, 230
Combe, William
Poetical Epistle to Sir Joshua Reynolds 6
Congreve, William
Love for Love 65
Constable, John
Mrs James Andrew 124, 126, 127
Constant 154, 161
Constantinople 222–3
Consulate, the 120, 124, 127
official uniforms 153, 154–5, 157
Conway, Henry Seymour 38
Copley, John Singleton
Mrs Thomas Gage 226, 227
Cornwallis, Lord 27–8
Coronation dress (England)
George III 9–10, 11, 25, 26–7
George IV 183, 230–3, 232–3, 234
Coronation dress (France)
Napoleon 154–5, 156, 157, 158–61, 162, 172–3
Cosmetics
patches 56–7
rouge 56
Costume books 31, 113, 139–40, 142, 172, 173, 174–5, 183–8, 193, 207, 210, 213, 219–20, 220, 221–2, 229
Cosway, Richard 12
Charles, 4th Earl of Harrington, with his Dog, Peter 182, 183, 230, 231,
Self-portrait with his Wife, Maria 195, 198, 230
William, 3rd Viscount Courtenay 207
Cotes, Francis 9
Countess of Donegall 13
Elizabeth Gunning, Duchess of Hamilton and Argyll 223
? Lady Ann Astley 191
Lady Stanhope and the Countess of Effingham as Diana and her Companion 213, 214
Thomas Crathorne and his Wife, Isabel 203
Cotton 48, 69, 70, 90, 102, 107, 110, 112, 113, 120 124, 125, 127–8
calico 105, 107
cambric 69, 92
chintz 68
lawn 58, 59, 69, 110
muslin 64, 66, 69–72, 78–9, 83, 86–8, 89, 90, 92– 4, 109, 110–11, 113, 114, 115, 118, 119, 120, 122, 124, 127–9, 130, 132, 137, 138–9, 140, 141, 165, 169, 173, 188, 191, 223–4, 225, 226
nankeen 104, 145
printed 70, 78, 86
Cotton industry, England and France 110
Court dress (England) 61, 62, 104, 123
Court dress (France) 60, 62, 83, 120, 122, 123, 127, 156, 169
balls 167, 169, 193
grand habit 12, 35, 59, 62, 120, 160
grande robe à la française, robe parée 62
habit à la française, habit habillé 35, 37, 39, 42–3, 49, 83, 96, 98, 122, 153–4
robe de cour 122–3
Couturières 42, 76, 91, 118
Couturières lingères 169
Couturiers 118, 120, 125, 128, 160
Coventry, Lady 62
Cowley, Hannah
Belle’s Stratagem, The 29–30
Cuffs (men’s) 20, 165, 166, 207, 209, 210, 211, 231
Cuffs (women’s) 163
Cumberland, Duke of 188, 191
Cunningham, Allan 80
Dallaway, James 26, 28
Dance, Nathaniel
Introduction, The 72, 73
Dandies
English 100–2, 107, 231
French 101
Dandré Bardon, Michel-François
Costume des anciens peuples 139
Dandridge, Bartholomew 8
Danloux, Henri-Pierre
Mademoiselle Rosalie Duthé 86, 88, 89
Dante 176
Danton, Georges-Jacques 85
Dartmouth, Lady 26
Dartmouth, Lord 26
David, Jacques-Louis 3, 8, 14, 20, 22, 113, 123, 137– 42, 146, 151, 152–3, 155–7, 162, 172
Alphonse Leroy 52
Bonaparte Crossing the Alps 20
Brutus receiving the bodies of his dead sons 113, 142
Charlotte and Zenaïde Bonaparte 129
Comte de Turenne 105
Comtesse Daru 124
Coronation of Napoleon 120, 134, 135, 159, 160–1
Emmanuel-Joseph, abbé Sieyès 108, 109
Fête de la Réunion 145
Festival of the Supreme Being 145, 150
French Citizen 149, 150
Henriette Delacroix, Madame de Verninac 112, 113, 114
Intervention of the Sabine Women 113, 150
Louise Pastoret 89
Madame David 124, 126
Madame Récamier 113, 114, 118, 177
Madame Sériziat 90
Monsieur Sériziat 95–6, 97
Napoleon in his Study 154
Oath of the Horatii 84, 142
Paris and Helen 132, 133, 140, 141, 142
Parting of Telemachus and Eucharis, The 140, 142, 143
People’s Deputy 149, 150
Self-portrait 20, 21
Serment du Jeu de Paume, Le 82, 83–5, 108, 152, 159
Thérèse Tallien 92, 93, 109
Triumph of the People, The 144, 145
Dawe, George
Louisa Hope 220, 221
Princess Charlotte 229, 230
Dayes, Edward 23
Essays on Painting 188
Debucourt, Philibert-Louis 94, 118
Delany, Mrs 30, 54, 62, 73, 199, 210–11, 223
Delaval, Sir Francis Blake 213
Delécluze, E.-J. 145, 150, 152–3, 172, 180, 235
Démeunier, Jean-Nicolas
Esprit des usages et de coutumes des différend peuples, L’ 29
Deportment, manners, etiquette, important role of, in dress 14, 36, 38, 40, 42, 45, 64, 66, 75, 83, 94, 96, 98, 103, 109, 125–6, 137, 180, 184, 235
Desrais, Claude-Louis 68, 76
Design for a ball dress 169
Devis, Arthur 9
Devonshire, Duchess of 67, 71–2
Diderot, Denis 15–16, 17, 18, 27, 29, 40, 50, 52, 54, 59, 136, 140, 156, 165
Discours de la poésie dramatique 141
Dighton, Robert
A Morning Ramble; or The Milliner’s Shop 78
George Bryan Brummell 99, 100
George, Prince of Wales 99, 100
Life and Death Contrasted 2, 3
Directory, the 31, 71, 90, 92, 95, 113, 118, 138, 150
official uniforms 152, 153
Dolls
fashion 9, 12, 50, 66, 76
models for coronation of Napoleon 156
Doublets (men’s) 163, 165, 166, 167, 170, 171, 175, 176, 178, 179, 180, 182, 188, 198, 204, 207, 208– 9, 212, 229, 230, 231–2, 234
Doublets (women’s) 163
Downman, John
Edward IV on a Visit to the Duchess of Bedford 189
Drapery painters, drapery painting 7–9, 22–3, 24, 25, 183, 195, 202–3, 207, 213, 217–18
Drawings, engraving and dress 12, 64, 107, 108, 173, 175–7, 187, 188–9, 190, 191, 217
Dress reformers, dress reform 19, 85, 104, 151, 183, 188, 211, 213
Dress, surviving, relationship with history of dress and history of art 5–7, 9–10, 11, 12, 65
Drouais, François-Hubert
Comte de Vaudreuil 43, 45
Group Portrait 35, 50
Madame de Pompadour 59
Madame du Barry 137, 163
Marquis de Sourches and his Family 163, 164
Ducis, Jean-François 162
Dumont, François
Marguérite-Gérard 138
Duplessis, Joseph-Siffred
Madame de Saint-Maurice 70
Duroc, général, duc de Frioul 162
Dutch fashions and art
influence on English dress 131
influence on French art 169
Duval, Georges 145
Souvenirs de la Terreur 84–5, 146
Duval-Lecamus, Pierre
Portrait of a Man 106, 107
Dyck, Sir Anthony van 6, 8, 13–14, 26, 123, 165, 183–4, 187, 193, 197, 199, 212–13, 224, 226, 230, 236
Anne Carr, Countess of Bedford 65
Béatrice de Cusance 199
Earl of Warwick 205
Elizabeth Howard, Countess of Peterborough 64, 74
George Digby, 2nd Earl of Bristol and William Russell, 1st Duke of Bedford 207
James Stuart, Duke of Lennox 46
Lady Dorothy Sidney, Countess of Sunderland 199–200
William Villiers, 2nd Viscount Grandison 207–8
Earle, Peter
Making of the English Middle Classes, The 38
Eccardt, John Giles
Charles Churchill, his Wife, Maria, and Son, Charles 195, 198
Horace Walpole 184, 203
Edward IV, King of England 189, 190, 210
Edward VII, King of England 99
Egan, Pierce
Life in London 202–3, 230
Eleanor of Castile, Queen of England 190
Élégants, élégantes 45, 92, 115, 125, 129
Elias, Norbert 162
Elizabeth I, Queen of England 187–8, 190, 192–3
Elizabethan-style costume 182, 208, 210, 230, 231–2, 234
Eloffe, Madame 169
Embroidery 42–3, 45, 46, 59, 64, 70–1, 91, 95, 96, 98–9, 110, 111, 118, 120, 122, 128–9, 132, 133, 138, 140, 141, 142, 143, 149, 150, 152, 153–5, 157, 158–61, 162, 170, 173, 176, 178, 200, 201–2, 207, 209, 211, 213, 215, 217, 219, 221, 222–3, 224–5, 226, 227–8, 229, 231–2, 233, 234
broderie anglaise 108, 109, 124, 184
Émigrés 89, 122, 172
Encyclopédie 14–15, 33, 42, 83
Encyclopédie méthodique 67, 76
English fashions, influence on French dress 29–30, 36, 39, 49–50, 66, 84, 94–5, 109, 153
Ermenonville 4–5
Erskine, David Steuart 184
Espercieux, Jean-Joseph 149
Estates General, dress of 83–4, 145, 147, 150, 152
Estrées, Gabrielle d’ 28–9, 169
Etruscan art 217
Eugénie, Empress 6
Eyck, Jan van
Ghent Altarpiece 157
Fabre, François-Xavier
Allen Smith seated above the Arno 221, 222
Laurent-Nicolas de Joubert 85
Fagan, Robert
Artist and his Wife, The 28–9, 28
Falstaff 188
Fancy dress 12, 13, 26–7, 26, 31, 120, 147, 165, 167, 181, 183, 193, 199–200, 201, 204, 207, 208–9, 210, 212–13, 214, 217, 224, 229–32, 236
Fans 86, 92
ostrich feathers 195, 196, 198
Fargues, Marie 223
Farington, Joseph 20, 27, 99, 154, 172
Farnese Flora 140
Farren, Eliza 78, 79, 80, 189
Farthingale 169, 192–3
Fashion magazines 30, 49–50, 57, 66, 68, 71, 76, 84–6, 89–90, 92, 94, 96, 99, 104, 107, 109–11, 115, 118, 123, 125–7, 138, 195, 199, 221
Fashion plates 12, 54, 66, 68, 86, 92, 94, 96, 103, 109– 10, 111, 124–5, 169, 170, 199, 217
Feathers 19, 71, 72, 120, 123, 125, 127, 131, 140, 149, 150–3, 161, 162, 165, 169–70, 188, 193, 194, 222, 230, 232
heron 234
ostrich 34, 35, 68–9, 69, 73, 75, 77, 118, 119, 124, 126, 128, 174, 195, 196, 198, 205–6, 232, 234
Felt 118, 119
Fêtes champêtres 210–11
Fêtes galantes 162, 167
Fêtes nationales 143, 144, 144–6, 147, 150, 152, 154–5
Fielding, Henry
Tom Jones 57
First Empire 22, 31, 96, 98, 110, 120, 122–3, 125, 147, 152, 154–5, 157, 161
uniforms 20, 98, 99, 154, 161–2
Fitzgerald, Lord Edward 114
Flaxman, John 28, 217
Flowers 53, 54, 57, 59, 61, 62, 65, 72, 75, 76, 122, 124, 137, 138, 146, 200, 210, 211, 213, 217, 234
Fontainebleau School 28
Fonthill Abbey 228
Fops
English Restoration 101
petits-maîtres 135
Fordyce, Lady Margaret 192
Foster, Lady Elizabeth 217–18, 219
Fourment, Helena 187, 193, 196
Fourment, Susanna 14, 165, 198
Fox-Strangways, Lady Susan 57, 210
Fragonard, Jean-Honoré 8
Ange-Gabriel Meusnier de Querlon 165, 166, 167
Meeting, The 168, 169
Progress of Love, The 167
portraits de fantaisie 165, 167
Marie-Emilie Coignet de Courson 167
Francis I, King of France 133, 150, 167, 170, 174
French Revolution 14–15, 18, 29–31, 36, 39, 46, 62, 155, 172–3, 212, 228, 230, 235
dress 80, 83–6, 87–8, 89, 90–5, 109, 118, 127, 143–6, 147–9, 150–3
French military victories, influence on French fashions 74–5
Frock (child’s) 50, 108, 109, 114, 115, 122, 124, 195, 198
Fur
ermine 156–7, 158–60, 174, 187, 188, 204–5, 206, 222, 223, 224, 229, 233, 234
trimming 43, 52, 57, 73, 75, 77, 78, 79, 125, 128, 137, 145, 156, 157–8, 160, 167, 170, 173, 223, 226, 229–30
Furbelows 55, 65, 122
Fuseli, Henry 131, 140, 213, 236
Lectures on Painting 6–7
Fusil, Louise
Souvenirs 142
Gainsborough, Thomas 9, 22, 25–6, 26, 49, 80, 167, 192, 200, 207
Ann Ford, Mrs Philip Thicknesse 54, 57, 59, 226
Anne, Countess of Chesterfield 26, 27
Artist’s Daughter Mary, The 195, 196
Artist’s Daughters Margaret and Mary, The 202
Captain William Wade 45–6, 46, 48
Charles Howard, Earl of Surrey, later 11th Duke of Norfolk 207, 208
costume drawing 64
Frances Catherine, Countess of Dartmouth 26
Hon. Frances Duncombe 193, 194, 195, 207
Hon. Mrs Graham 195
Lady Alston 62, 63
Lady Innes 54
Lady Ligonier 26
Lady Sheffield 73–4, 74
Mall, The 66, 67
Mary, Countess Howe 64, 65
Matthew Hale 45
Morning Walk, The 50
‘Pink Boy’, Master Nicholls 208
Queen Charlotte 61, 62
Sarah Siddons 73, 74, 128
Sir Edward Turner 44, 45
Gardner, Daniel 224
Garnerey, Auguste 118, 162
Garrick, David 188–9, 210
Garsault, F.-A. de
Art de la lingerie, L’ 70
Art du tailleur, L’ 43
Gauffier, Louis
Woman in a Landscape 138, 139
Gautier, Théophile 162
Genlis, Madame de 30, 86, 114, 118
Geoffrin, Madame 15, 163
George I, King of Great Britain and Ireland 205
George II, King of Great Britain and Ireland 188–9
George III, King of Great Britain and Ireland 49, 189, 208, 231
George IV, King of Great Britain and Ireland 99, 100, 102, 104–5, 107, 127, 131, 183, 230–1, 234
coronation 230–2, 232–3, 234
Gérard, François 114
Henri IV Entering Paris 174
Madame Lercerf 89, 90
Madame Récamier 113, 115, 117, 118
Marie-Julie Bonaparte, Queen of Spain with her Daughters, Zenaïde and Charlotte 120, 122, 124
Marie-Laetitia, Madame Mère’ 127, 128
Gérard, Marguerite, and Jean-Honoré Fragonard
Reader, The 169, 170
Géricault, J.-L.-A.-T.
Laure Bro 129, 130, 131, 180
Gibelin, A.-E.
De l’origine et de la forme du bonnet de la liberté 146
Gillray, James
Belle Espagnole, La 92
French Habits 152
Giornea 176, 178
Girodet-Trioson, A.-L. de Roussy
Angélique-Adélaïde de Meliand, marquise de la Grange 118, 119, 125–6
Generosity of Bayard, The 170, 171
François René, vicomte de Chateaubriand 101, 102
Mademoiselle Lange 94
Gloucester, Duke of 188–90
Gloves (men’s) 43, 185
Gloves (women’s) 58, 59, 64, 65, 130
Goes, Hugo van der 160
Goethe, Johann von 222
Elective Affinities 6–7, 218
Propyläen 1
Goldsmith, Oliver
Citizen of the World, The 62
She Stoops to Conquer 38
Vicar of Wakefield, The 22, 23
Goncourt brothers 53
Gontaut, duchesse de 86
Gothic 157, 160, 162, 172–3, 183–4, 186–7, 232
Gough, Richard
Sepulchral Monuments in Great Britain 186
Goujon, Jean 174
Gowns (men’s) 15–16, 17, 18, 148–9, 150–1, 188,
academic 23, 24
Geneva 23
houppelande 20, 176, 178
jama 226
morning, dressing, robe de chambre 15, 17, 35, 50, 52, 73
surcoat 205, 232, 234
Gowns (women’s) 19, 86, 127
bedgown 25
Brunswick 69, 110
caftan 222–3, 224–5, 226, 228
chemise, à l’antique, neo-classical 12, 13, 14, 15, 27, 71, 72, 78, 79, 86, 88, 89, 90–1, 94, 103, 110, 113, 114–16, 135–8, 217, 218–19
chemise à la reine 71, 75
Circassian 86
curdee 222
demi-robe 127
déshabillé 35, 37, 48, 70, 86–7, 200, 226
douillette 127, 128
‘economical’ 91
greatcoat 68, 110
habillement à la républicaine 91
lévantine 127
lévite 73, 91
loosely draped gowns 22–3, 23, 25, 200, 201–2
morning 75
négligé 70, 200
nightgown 64–5, 66, 200
open 54, 57, 67, 89, 91, 169, 193
overgown 118, 119, 128, 224
pelisse 73, 128, 129, 131, 174
à la polonaise 37, 66, 67, 70, 71, 193, 194, 195, 196–7
redingote 67, 68, 86, 120, 127–8
robe à la Créole 71
robe à l’anglaise 14, 16, 26, 27, 66–7, 74, 75–6, 77
robe à la française 6, 7, 37, 53–4, 56, 57, 62, 66, 76
robe à la turque 75–6
robe volante 57
round 118, 120
sacque 12, 53, 54, 56, 57, 58, 59, 61, 62, 63, 64
sarafan 229, 230
à la sauvage 92, 94
shift 71, 92, 93–4, 112, 113–14, 118, 132, 136–7, 138, 140, 141, 190, 217, 218–19, 226, 227
surcote 173
train 59, 120, 122, 159, 160, 161, 188
wedding 127
wrapping 73, 109, 110–11, 127, 203, 210, 211, 218, 224, 226, 227
Goya, Francisco de 62
Graeco-Turkish dress 223–4, 225
Grand Style 23, 25, 193, 195, 216, 225, 226
Grand Tour 43, 46, 48, 213
Grant, Francis 23
Grasset de Saint-Sauveur, Jacques
A Member of the Directorate in his ‘grand costume’ 152, 153
Gravelot, Hubert-François 9
Greece, ancient, Greek taste, le goût grecque 135–6, 139, 151, 213, 216–19, 220, 228
Green, Valentine 25
Acta histórica reginarum anglia 190
Death of Mary Queen of Scots, The 191
Lady Elizabeth Grey at the Feet of Edward the Fourth 189
Marriage of King Henry VIII with Ann Bullen 187, 188, 190
Grégoire, Henri, abbé 152
Greuze, Jean-Baptiste 218
Greville, Charles 218
Grey, Lady Elizabeth 189
Grey, Lady Jane 190
Grimm, Baron Melchior 53, 135–6
Gros, Antoine-Jean 162, 172
Bonaparte as First Consul 153–4, 155
Embarkation of the duchesse d’Angoulême at Pauillac, The 174
Empress Josephine 118, 121
Grose, Francis 184
Grosley, Pierre-Jean 59, 64
Guesclin, Bertrand du 172
Gunning, Elizabeth 25, 26, 202, 204
Hairdressers 12, 39, 99
Hair ornaments
pompon 56–7, 137, 138
Hairstyles (men’s) 8, 49, 84, 101, 102, 148
oreilles de chien 95
powdered 94, 96, 104, 107, 140
side-burns 106, 107, 229, 230
à la Titus 84–5, 95, 99, 100, 108, 109
Vandyke 210, 211, 211–12, 212
Hairstyles (women’s) 8, 26, 39, 40, 56–7, 60, 72, 73, 74, 92, 109, 110–11, 129, 130–1, 217–18, 219, 226, 227
à l’antique, Grecian style, Roman style 114, 114–15, 116, 142, 143, 217, 218, 220, 221
à la Madonna 179, 180
à la Titus 92, 93, 115, 122
en colimaçon 110, 111
powdered 35, 61, 62, 72, 165
ringlets 213
tête de mouton 53, 57
whisking queue 68
Hamilton, Gavin 217
Abdication: Mary Queen of Scots Resigning her Crown, The 191
Hamilton, Lady Betty 210
Hamilton, Lady Emma 118, 213
attitudes 218, 219
Hamilton, Sir William 211, 218–19
Hamilton Smith, Charles
Selections of the Ancient Costume of Great Britain and Ireland 187
Handkerchief (men’s) 85
Handkerchief, neckerchief, kerchief (women’s) 57, 58, 59, 64, 78, 89, 110, 199
fichu 71, 86, 86–7, 89, 90, 118, 127, 170
fichu menteur 72
Hats (men’s) 30, 34, 35, 45, 48–9, 52, 53, 100, 153, 154, 184
bicorne, claque 49, 95, 98, 103, 146
chapeau bras 37, 39, 49, 96, 98
chaperon 175–6, 177
feathered 165; ostrich-feathered 205–6
à la Henri IV 83, 161, 162, 169, 175, 193, 232, 234
hunting 102
hussar busby 230
opera 101–2
round 49, 85, 102, 153
Rubens 198
slouched 146, 147
three-cornered 43, 49
top 106, 107
toque 149, 150, 152
wide-awake 48, 49
Hats (women’s) 64, 67, 74, 120, 126, 191
à l’Américaine 89
beaver 14, 69, 73
beret 165
feathered 72, 120, 125, 128, 129, 131, 165, 169–70, 192–3, 194, 195, 196–7; ostrich-feathered 34, 35, 68–9, 69, 73, 75, 77, 118, 119, 124, 126, 128, 174, 195, 196
felt 118, 119
French Revolution 86, 89
military influences 68
pouf 74–5, 77
Rubens 195, 196–8
Spanish 126
straw 14, 15, 58, 59, 90, 124, 126, 130, 165, 200, 201; Leghorn 71, 72
toque 119, 120, 124, 126, 128, 129, 131
Haydon, Benjamin 234
Hayley, William 190
Hayman, Francis 9
Benjamin Hoadly and his Wife 13, 200, 202
Self-portrait with Grosvenor Bedford 8
Hazlitt, William 14, 25, 81, 181, 199, 217, 230, 234–5
Charles Lamb 212
Headdress (children’s)
pudding 195, 198
Headdress (women’s)
bandeaux à l’antique 89, 114–15, 116, 126, 138, 142, 143, 232
based on French hood 191
fillet 132, 140
Mary Queen of Scots coif 126
pearl-trimmed 187, 188
scuffia 180
Heideloff’s Gallery of Fashion 92, 109–10, 111, 115
Hennequin, Simon 10
Henry I, King of France 167
Henry II, King of France 167
Henry III, King of France 167
Henry IV, King of France 28, 30, 57, 83, 150, 153, 162, 167, 169, 173–4, 175, 192–3, 210, 232
Henrietta Maria, Queen of Great Britain and Ireland 6, 199, 208, 210
Henriette de France, Madame 12
Henry IV, King of England 205
Henry V, King of England 230
Henry VI, King of England 230
Henry VIII, King of England 186–7, 189–91, 204
Herculaneum 135–6
Hertford, Lady 60, 61–2
Hertford, Lord 36
Hickey, William 12, 48
Hilliard, Nicholas 230
Hip pads 53, 66, 72
Historical dress 167, 169, 183, 188–9, 192, 196–8, 200, 202, 204, 210, 211
History painting and dress 8, 22, 31, 132, 133, 135, 137, 140, 141, 142, 143, 150, 170, 171, 172, 175, 180, 183, 185–92, 213, 217, 234, 236
Hoare, William
Christopher Anstey and his Daughter 49–50, 50
Hogarth, William 8, 12, 18, 54, 73, 187
Analysis of Beauty, The 18, 19, 22
Captain Coram 103–4
David Garrick 188
Self-portrait with Pug 18, 52
Holbein, Hans 183, 187–8, 191, 210
Dance of Death 92
Hollander, Anne 5–6
Hollar, Wenceslas
Ornatus muliebris anglicanus 199
Holme, Randle
Academy of Armoury 183, 185
Homer 135, 150
Hone, William 231
Hoops 53, 60–1, 63, 64, 72, 122–3, 160, 169, 195, 197
Hope, Thomas 228, 236
Costume of the Ancients, ‘Grecian female’ 219, 220
Designs for Modern Costume 220
Hoppner, John 99
portrait of the Prince of Wales 204
Hortense, Queen 120, 128, 159, 161, 174
Hose (men’s) 163, 167, 169, 176, 178, 189, 230, 232
canons 167, 169, 170
trunk hose 175, 182, 188, 204, 230, 231–2, 234
Howe, Countess 64, 65
Howe, Lord 28
Huck, Johann Gerhard 187, 188–9, 191
Hudson, Thomas 8–9, 207, 236
Mary Panton, Duchess of Ancaster 195, 197
Sir Henry Oxenden 40, 42, 45
Sir John Pole, 5th Bt., and his Wife, Elizabeth 200, 201
study of a man in a coat 40, 42
Unknown Gentleman 8, 9
Unknown Lady 8, 9
‘Huile antique’ 115
Hume, David 4
Hungarian Hussar costume 9, 34, 35, 104–5, 148, 153–4, 155, 181, 228–30
Hunting costume 120
Hygiene 19, 48, 148
Incroyables
18th century 94, 95, 104, 235
19th century 103, 104, 105
Ingres, Jean-Auguste-Dominique 12, 14, 20, 22, 89, 104, 131, 153
Augustin Jordan and his Daughter 107–8, 109
Barbara Bansi 114–15, 116
Caroline Murat 128, 129
costume drawings 175–7
Grande Odalisque 180
Henri IV Playing with his Children 174, 175
Hippolyte-François Devillers 98, 99
John Hay and his Sister Mary 105
Joseph-Antoine de Nogent 108
Lord Grantham 105
Madame Moitessier 179
Mademoiselle Rivière 130
Marie Marcoz, vicomtesse de Senonnes 177, 179, 180
Mr and Mrs Woodhead and Henry Comber 105
Napoleon in the ‘petit habillement’ of the Coronation 160, 161, 162
Napoleon on the Imperial Throne 157, 158, 159
Paolo and Francesca 176–7, 178–80
Self-portrait 107
Studies of a ‘Carrick’ 107, 108
Isabey, Jean-Baptiste 5, 118, 125, 149, 157, 160, 162
Coronation of Napoleon I at Notre-Dame 156
Jackets (men’s) 147, 149, 212, 231
carmagnole 146, 147, 153
jerkin 187, 188
Jackets (women’s) 37, 68–9, 69–70, 89, 91, 110, 170
canezou 127
caraco, pierrot 69, 86, 86–7
spencer 127, 217, 219
Jacobean style 195, 207
Jacobins, the 95, 146, 150, 152
Jacobin Club 84–5, 146
Jacobin Republic of Virtue 91
Jacobite Rebellion 231
James I, King of England and Scotland 184
James, Henry
Portrait of a Lady, The 36–7
Jefferys, Thomas
Collection of the Dresses of Different Nations both Ancient and Modern, A 183, 188, 192, 199, 207, 210, 222, 229; ‘Habit of Rubens Wife’ 193, 196
Jesse, Captain William 101
Jeunesse dorée 95
Jewellery (men’s)
buckles 84, 85
gold seals 95, 96
Jewellery (women’s) 213, 217, 222
antique pin, clasp 118, 121, 216, 217, 223
Bastille 85–6
bracelet 54, 56, 57, 64–5, 118, 119
brooch 195, 196, 213, 215
cameo 91, 128–9, 202
chains 195, 196
comb 179
diadem, tiara 128, 160
diamonds 137, 160, 169, 179
earrings 86, 87, 128, 129
links 86, 87
necklace 57, 60, 62, 195, 196
offerings to the nation 146
pearls 74, 137, 138, 163, 167, 169, 173, 189–90, 193, 194, 195, 199, 200, 202, 226, 227, 229, 230
pendant 167
rosary and cross 189
stick-pin 68, 69
strophion 217, 218
tremblant 53
watches 69
Johnson, Dr Samuel 1, 23
Jonson, Ben 188
Josephine, Empress 92, 118, 120, 121, 122, 127–8, 156, 159, 160, 161–2, 172–3
Joyeuse entrée 143–4
Karamzin, N. M. 49
Kauffman, Angelica 14, 73, 217, 223–4
Jane Maxwell, Duchess of Gordon as Diana 213–14, 215, 216
John Simpson 207, 209
Lady Elizabeth Foster 71, 72
Morning Amusement 223, 225
Sir Joshua Reynolds 207
Kean, Edmund 188
Kemble, John Philip 213
Keppel, the Hon. Mrs 12
Knapton, George 8
Kneller, Sir Godfrey 8, 22, 200
Mary Compton, Countess of Dorset 202
Knight, Richard Payne
Analytical Inquiry into the Principles of Taste 28
Labille-Guiard, Adélaïde
Madame Louis-Elisabeth de France, Infante d’Espagne 165
Self-portrait with Two Pupils 14, 16
Lace 6–7, 39, 43, 48, 49, 53, 58, 59, 62, 64, 65, 71, 72, 74, 76, 78, 83, 90, 101, 102, 110, 111, 120, 123, 125–7, 137, 138, 160–1, 162–3, 165, 166, 169, 173, 189, 191, 193, 194, 195, 196–7, 204, 205, 206, 218, 230–2
black 57, 60, 62
blonde 54, 56, 120, 127, 193, 194, 229, 230
bobbin 184, 208, 210–11
Flemish 40, 41
French needle 50, 51, 98; point d’Alençon 75, 77, 157, 158
old 61, 62
Laclos, Pierre-Ambroise-François Choderlos de
Liaisons Dangereuses, Les 36–7
La Curne de Sainte-Palaye, Jean-Baptiste
Histoire littéraire des troubadours 171
Mémoires sur l’ancien chevalerie 171–2
Lafayette, marquis de 86
La Font de Saint Yenne
Réflexions sur quelques causes de l’état présent de la peinture en France 135
Sentiments sur quelques ouvrages de peinture 170
Lairesse, Gérard de
Art of Painting, The 200
Lancret, Nicolas 162
Landscapes, landscape painting, relationship with dress 22, 26, 35, 45, 52, 62, 65, 68, 78, 79, 130– 1, 138, 139
Lanson, René
Goût du moyen age en France au XVIIIe. siècle, Le 170
Laurent, Jean-Antoine
Héloïse in the Cloister 173
Lavalette, Madame de 161
Lawrence, Sir Thomas 12, 14, 101, 115
Duchess of Richmond 213
Eliza Farren 78, 79, 80
George IV in Coronation Robes 233
Lady Elizabeth Foster 217–18, 219
Lady St John as Hebe 217, 218, 221
Marchioness of Londonderry 213
Sir Robert Wigram 103–4, 104
Lay figures 9, 10, 12
Layettes 127
Leather 34, 35, 48–9, 68, 97, 148
chamois 104
doeskin 104–5
kid 130
Leblanc, abbé 53
Le Coeur, Louis
Palais Royal Garden Walk, The 67, 68
Lekain, Henri-Louis 140
Lely, Sir Peter 200, 202, 210, 213
Le Nain, Louis 212
Lenoir, Alexandre 136, 152, 155, 172–3
Lennox, Lady Sarah 4, 57, 210
Lens, André
Costume des peuples de l’antiquité 113, 139–40, 143
Leopold of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha 230
Leroy, Louis-Hyppolite 118, 120, 125, 128, 160
Leseur, Pierre-Etienne
Female costumes 90, 91
Leslie, C.R., and T. Taylor 23, 25–6, 207
Le Vacher de Chamois, J.-C.
Recherches sur les costumes et sur les théâtres de toutes les nations 142
Lever, Sir Ashton 157
Lichtenberg, Georg Christoph 72
Linen 48, 49, 53, 58, 59, 69–70, 86, 95, 97, 100, 107, 110–11, 138, 163, 207, 209, 217, 218
Saint-Quentin 120
Liotard, Jean-Etienne 222–3
Marie Fargues, the artist's wife 223, 224, 226
London 72
British Museum 183–5, 187, 219
Drury Lane theatre 189, 213
fashionable shops 48, 102, 110–11
Holland House 210
Hyde Park 99
London Tradesman, The 8, 78
Mall, The 66, 67, 68
Pantheon 188, 192
Ranelagh 188, 195, 197, 200, 229
Regent Street 102
Royal Academy 45, 69, 126, 185, 216
Society of Antiquaries 183–5, 213
Somerset House 195
Vauxhall Gardens 200, 208, 213
Westminster Abbey 189, 232, 234
Westminster Hall 232, 234
Loo, Carle van
Conversation espagnole, La 163
Lecture espagnole, La 163
Offering to Cupid 136, 138
Sacrifice of Iphigenia 139–40
Loo, Louis-Michel 9, 59
Denis Diderot 15–16, 17, 18, 29, 52, 165
German Woman Playing the Harp, A 163
Louis XV 156, 157
Spanish Woman Playing the Guitar, A 163
Louis XIV, King of France 3, 30–1, 35, 38, 144, 234
Louis XV, King of France 12, 57, 122, 133, 156, 157
Louis XVI, King of France 49–50, 83, 86, 89, 98, 122, 143, 167, 174
Louis XVIII, King of France 94, 98, 123
Louis-Philippe, King of France 153
Loutherbourg, Philippe-Jacques de 228
Louviers 107
Lowenthal, David 190
Lyons 42, 59, 60, 62, 154, 157
Macaronis 45, 94, 101, 211
MacPherson, James 150, 186
McArdell, James
Helen Fourment 193, 196
Maillard, Mademoiselle 146
Mailliot, J.
Recherches sur les costumes 142, 155
‘Mallary’
Lady Pamela Fitzgerald and her Daughter 114, 115
Mandeville, Bernard de
Fable of the Bees 38
Mann, Horace 184
Marat, Jean-Paul 84–5
Marchandes de modes, modistes, milliners 43, 62, 68, 73– 6, 78, 89, 91, 169
Maria Theresa, Empress 72
Marie-Antoinette, Queen 71, 72–3, 75–6, 77, 78, 83, 118, 122, 137–8, 140, 167, 169, 193
Marie-Louise, Empress 96, 98, 120, 125, 160, 162
Marigny, marquis de 139
Mary, Queen of Scots 187, 190, 191, 192
Masculine fashions, influence on women’s dress 68–9, 69
Masquerade costume 30–1, 78, 104–5, 163, 167, 183– 4, 187–90, 191, 192, 195, 196–8, 199–200, 201, 204–5, 206, 207–8, 210–12, 222–3, 226, 228–31
Diana, masquerade character 213, 214–15
Hebe, masquerade character 217, 218
Matilda, Queen (wife of William the Conqueror) 123
Mattei Ceres 217
Maud, Queen of England 190
Medici, Marie de’ 155, 160, 167, 175, 181, 192
Mercers, magasins de nouveautés 42–3, 76, 118, 157
Mercier, Louis-Sébastien 4, 39, 42, 76
An 2240, L’ 148
Mort de Louis XI, La 171
Nouveau Paris, Le 91–2, 95, 115
Tableau de Paris 15, 49, 76, 78
Mère, Madame 127, 128, 161
Merovingian dynasty 155, 172
Merveilleuses
18th century 94, 138, 235
19th century 124, 129
Métra, François 167
Meyer, John 103
Meynier, Charles
Charlemagne Consecrating the Church of Saint-Denis 172
Meyrick, Samuel Rush
Costume of the Original Inhabitants of the British Isles 187
Middle Ages and dress 162–3, 170–4, 183, 186, 189– 90, 204–5, 234
Middleton, Lord 9–10, 11
Miette de Villars 20
Mémoires de David 138
Military dress
influence on English women’s fashions 68
influence on uniforms of Consulate 154, 155
Millais, Sir John Everett
Clarissa: A Recollection of Gainsborough 195
Millin, A.-L.
Dictionnaire des beaux-arts 142
Milton, John 18, 190, 191
Mirabeau, comte de 83–4
Moitte, Madame
Ame des Romaines dans les dames françaises, L’ 146
Molé, G.-F.-R.
Histoire des modes françaises 139
Montagu, Edward Wortley 226, 228
Montagu, Elizabeth 9, 62, 191, 199
Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley 222–3
Montesquieu, Charles de Secondat, baron de la Brède et de
De l’Esprit des lois 135
Montfaucon, Dom Bernard de
Monumens de la monarchie françoise 171–2, 174–5, 183, 185, 210
Moore, Dr John 85, 149
More, Jacob
Self-portrait 52, 53, 85
Moreau, Jean-Michel (Moreau le Jeune) 104, 152
Costume of a French Republican 148, 149
Monument du Costume 36–7, 37, 62, 76
Morgan, Lady 172
Morin, Eulalie
Madame Récamier 94
Moritz, Carl Philipp 49–50
Morland, George 190
Morris, Gouverneur 89
Moses, Henry
‘Grecian Female’ 219, 220, 221
Mourning dress 84, 101, 114, 128, 191
Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus
Così fan tutte 167
Muffs (men’s) 38, 39
Muffs (women’s) 57, 73, 78
Murat, Caroline, Queen of Naples 14, 120, 128, 129, 161
Muscadins 84, 94–5
Naples 14, 120, 128, 165, 218
Napoleon I, Emperor 5, 20, 27, 96, 98, 102, 105, 107– 8, 111, 120, 122–5, 127, 153–4, 155, 172, 174, 204, 230, 235
coronation 154–5, 156, 157, 158–61, 162, 231
National Guard 86, 144
Nattier, Jean-Marc 12, 137, 236
Neckcloths (men’s) 100, 101, 102, 107
cravat 18, 28, 39, 48, 49, 83, 94, 95, 96, 107, 123, 154, 157, 161, 162
à la Byron 107
à la Napoléon 107
jabot 145
Neckcloths (women’s) 68, 69
jabot 127
Nelson, Lord 189, 219
Neo-classicism 12, 13, 14, 19, 27, 50, 54, 71, 109, 113, 122–3, 137, 140, 160, 162, 170, 183, 213, 217, 223–4, 228
Net 65, 124–5, 126, 127, 129
Neville, Sylas 207
Ney, Marshal 98
Nicholson, William
Self-portrait 229, 230
William Allan 230
Nile, Battle of the 126
Nivelon, François
Rudiments of Genteel Behavior, The 40, 42
Nivernois, duchesse de 59
Northcote, James 9, 23, 200
Norwich 125
O’Brien, Lady Susan 235
Occupational costume 34, 35, 104
Old Masters 207, 213, 216
Oliver, Isaac
Edward Herbert, 1st Baron Herbert of Cherbury 48
Opie, John 190
Frances Dillon, Lady Jerningham 13
Orders 212, 232
Bath 205, 233, 234
Garter 188, 204, 232, 234
Golden Fleece 175, 233, 234
Guelphic 233, 234
Légion d’Honneur 154–5, 157, 158, 204
St Catherine of Russia 229, 230
Saint-Esprit 49–50, 51, 62, 75, 77, 157, 162, 175
Oriental costume, oriental-style costume 183, 202, 218, 223–6, 228
Ossian 150, 186, 217
Ossory, Lady 85, 192
Ottoman Empire 222, 228
Oxenden, Sir Henry 40, 42, 45
‘Painter taylors’ 8
Paisley 125
Paniers 59, 61, 62
Parasols (men’s) 38, 39
Paris 86, 99, 130, 131, 144, 147–8, 150, 153–4, 170, 171
Académie des Sciences 70
Bastille 85–6, 141, 145, 148
Bibliothèque Nationale 118, 173
Champ de Mars 145, 155
Champs-Elysées 94
Frascati 94
Louvre 113, 142, 172, 175
Musée des Monuments Français 152, 172, 173
Notre-Dame 144, 146, 154–7, 161
Opéra 145–6
Palais du Luxembourg 167
Palais Royal 67–8, 68
Panthéon 172
Société Populaire et Républicaine des Arts 91, 148–9
Tivoli Gardens 94, 125
Tuileries 94, 96, 98, 113, 127, 128, 145, 154
Pastoral, arcadian dress 163, 165, 167, 195, 197, 200, 201, 210–11
Pater, Jean-Baptiste 162
Pattern books 195, 196, 207, 210
Peace of Amiens 99, 113, 153
Peacock, Thomas Love 187
Peasant dress 38, 39, 114
Percier, C., and F.-L. Fontaine
Livre du Sacré 160
Percy, Revd Thomas
Reliques of Ancient English Poetry 186
Perfume 95, 100, 228
Perin-Salbreux, Lie-Louis
Marie-Caroline of Austria, Queen of Naples 75
Perroneau, Jean-Baptiste
Jacques Cazotte 40, 41
Peters, Matthew William 226
Petticoat (part of dress), skirt 37, 57, 62, 63, 66, 70, 86–7, 89, 91, 94, 110, 127, 193, 217, 219
Philip IV, King of Spain 212
Philippe-Egalité, duc d’Orléans 49, 85, 114, 153
Phillips, Thomas 228
Philosophes 29, 83, 135
Phrygian cap 132, 140, 141
Pickering, Henry
‘Eleanor Frances Dixie’ 58, 59
Picot 157, 162
Piozzi, Hester Lynch 222
Plutarch 145
Lives 135, 146
‘Poetical’ painting 190
Pomade, pomatum 49, 148
Pompadour, Madame de 6, 7, 53–4, 55–6, 56–7, 59, 65, 137
Pompeii 135
Cicero’s villa 219
Portrait painting and dress 6–8, 13, 14–15, 16–18, 19– 20, 21, 22–3, 23–5, 25–7, 26–7, 28, 28–9, 31, 35, 36, 44–8, 49–50, 50–8, 59, 60–1, 62, 63–5, 68–9, 70–4, 78, 79, 80, 85, 89, 95, 97, 98, 101, 102–3, 105 106, 107–8, 109–13, 114, 115, 125, 126–9, 131, 137, 138–9, 151, 164–7, 179, 180, 183–4, 204, 205–6, 207, 208–9, 210, 211, 212–13, 214– 16, 217, 221, 222–3, 223–9, 230, 236
Portsmouth, Duchess of 200
Poussin, Nicolas 138, 141
Pre-Raphaelites 187
Primitifs 150
Professional men and dress 50, 51–2, 103, 104
Proust, Marcel 12
Provence, comte de 89, 94
Prudhomme, L. 86
Prud’hon, Pierre-Paul 96, 98
Empress Josephine 173, 174
Pujol, Abel de 151
Pupil, François
Style troubadour, Le 170
Quaï, Maurice 150
Quilting 63, 64
Quin, James 18, 19, 188
Raeburn, Henry 110
David Anderson 95, 96
Jacobina Copland 109, 110
Raimbault, Madame 118
Rameau, Jean-Philippe
Surprises de l’amour, Les 137
Ramsay, Allan 8–9, 12, 195
Dialogue on Taste 19–20, 236
Jean-Jacques Rousseau 3–4, 5
Lady Louisa Conolly 65, 66
Lady Mary Coke 199
Martha, Countess of Elgin 57
Raphael 14, 177, 179, 180
Rathier, L. 173
Ready-made, ready-to-wear garments 91, 110–11
Récamier, Madame 92, 94, 113, 114, 115, 117, 118, 177
Regional costume 228–9
Regnault, Jean-Baptiste 152, 156
Rehberg, Frederick
Lady Hamilton’s Attitudes 218, 219
Rembrandt van Rijn 23, 165
Rémusat, Madame de 102, 162
Renaissance and dress 14, 101, 127, 129, 131, 135, 148, 156, 160, 162, 165, 170–3, 177, 179–80, 183, 186–7, 190, 193, 205, 234
Republican dress 20, 91, 147–8, 148–9, 150–3
Restoration, the
England 101, 200, 204
France 22, 31, 108, 110, 122, 174
Révoil, Pierre 172
Reynolds, Sir Joshua 6, 8–9, 14, 22–3, 27, 73, 80, 105, 115, 183, 191, 200, 218, 224–5, 236
Captain John Foote 226
Charles Coote, 1st Earl of Bellomont 205
Charlotte Walpole, Countess of Dysart 193
David Steuart Erskine 184
Discourses 23, 27, 193, 204–5, 207, 216–17
Elizabeth Gunning, Duchess of Hamilton and Argyll 25, 26, 202, 204
Francis Willoughby, 3rd Baron Middleton 9–10, 11
Giuseppe Marchi 229
Ladies Waldegrave, The 70, 71, 223
Lady Bunbury Sacrificing to the Graces 216, 217
Laurence Sterne 23
Lord Ludlow 229
Master Crewe 191
Mrs Abington as the Comic Muse 13
Mrs Abington as Miss Prue 57, 65, 65–6
Mrs Carnac 23, 225, 226
Mrs Musters 217
Nelly O’Brien 57
Rebecca, Viscountess Folkestone 224
Self-portrait as DCL 23, 24
Sir Watkin Williams Wynn and Lady Henrietta Somerset 198, 208
Sophia Pelham 69, 69–70
Susanna Beckford 54, 56
Three Ladies Adorning a Term of Hymen 23, 25
Viscount Althorp 207
Rheims 155
Ribbons 53–4, 55, 57, 58, 59, 65, 66–7, 68–70, 71, 73–4, 75–6, 78, 79, 86, 90, 92, 93, 110, 111, 118, 119, 122, 129, 142, 143, 145, 163, 164–5, 167, 169, 195, 196–9, 205, 206, 211, 213, 215, 216
Richard II, King of England 186
Richard III, King of England 188
Richard, François-Fleury 174
Valentine of Milan Mourning the Death of Her Husband 172–3
Richardson, Jonathan
Essay on the Theory of Painting 22
Richardson, Samuel
Sir Charles Grandison 200
Richmond, Duchess of 223
Riding costume (men’s) 34, 35, 67–8, 95, 97, 99, 100
Riding costume (women’s) 12, 22, 34, 35, 68–9, 69, 86
Rigoley de Juvigny, Antoine 39
Robespierre, Maximilien de 20, 84, 85, 90–1, 95, 144– 5, 152, 159
Robinson, John 207
Roche, Sophie von la 73, 187
Rochefoucauld, Madame de la 160
Rococo 6, 7, 18, 53–4, 54–6, 56–7, 59, 64–5, 66, 136, 139, 150, 163,
Roland, Madame 66, 145
Romanticism 3, 5, 22, 25–6, 28–9, 31, 49, 52, 101, 102, 107, 109, 123, 131, 133, 162, 167, 170, 172, 183, 186–7, 190–1, 200, 202, 210–12, 217, 228–30, 234
Rome 104, 128, 135–6, 140, 142, 149, 155, 172, 205, 213, 216, 220
French Academy 220, 222
Romney, George 217–18, 226
Anne Verelst 216, 217
Lady Hester Newdigate 12, 13, 27
Milton Dictating to his Daughters 190
Romney, John
Memoirs of the Life and Works of George Romney 27
Rosettes 163, 167, 175, 187, 188, 205, 232
Roslin, Alexandre
Isabella, Countess of Hertford 59, 60, 61–2
Roubiliac, Louis-François 9
Rouleaux 124
Rouquet, Jean-André 56
Rousseau, Jean-Jacques 5, 135, 145, 148, 162
Confessions 4, 135
Discours sur les sciences et les arts 3–5
Emile 4, 135
Juge de Jean-Jacques 48
Rowe, Nicholas
Jane Shore 210
Rowlandson, Thomas
Elderly Buck Walking with a Lady 103
Mrs Abington Reclining on a Couch 71, 72
Vicar of Wakefield: The Family Picture, The 22, 23
Rubens, Sir Peter Paul 163, 165, 174–5, 181, 193, 199, 210, 230
Honeysuckle Bower, The 195, 198
Marie de’Medici cycle 160, 167, 192
Helena Fourment 187, 193, 196, 198
Susanna Fourment (Chapeau de Paille) 14, 165, 198
Rubens-wife costume 193, 195, 196–7, 210–11, 229
Ruching 54, 56–7, 69, 78, 129, 195, 230
Ruffs (men’s) 157, 158, 163, 167, 175, 187, 188, 232
Ruffs (women’s) 127–8, 129, 163, 167, 171, 173, 177, 179, 190, 191, 192–3, 195
à la Cléopatre 126
collerette à la raine Matilde 123, 124
Russell, Thomas Pougher 98
Russian costume 229, 230
Rutland, Dowager Duchess of 23, 25
Rysbrack, J. M.
Charles Seymour, 6th Duke of Somerset 188, 204, 205
Saint-Denis, church of 172–4
Saint Geneviève 172
Saint-Just, Louis-Antoine de 146
Saint Louis 170, 172
Saint-Non, abbé de 165
Sanderson, William
Graphice 200
Sans-culottes 20, 39, 84–5, 95, 146, 147
Sarrazin, P.-N. 76, 169
Schall, Jean-Frédéric 137–8
Schweitzer and Davidson 99
Scott, John 43, 153
Visit to Paris 30
Scott, Sir Walter 187, 230–2, 234
Scottish dress 231
Sculpture and dress 27–8, 113, 115, 186–8, 204, 205, 217–19, 222
Second Empire 6, 120
Ségur, comte de 29, 83, 167, 169
Selwyn, George 163, 165
Sensibilité 75, 147
Sergent-Marceau (Antoine-François Sergent) 146, 149
Seven Years’ War 43, 57
Seymour, Jane 210
Shakespeare, William 18, 162, 183, 188, 190
Henry VIII 189
Shawls, stoles and scarves 14, 15, 23, 26, 27, 52, 58, 59, 85–6, 87–8, 89, 90–1, 92, 93, 109, 110, 112, 113, 115, 118, 121, 124, 125, 127, 130–1, 138, 139, 146, 147, 200, 201–2, 204, 213, 217–18, 219, 222, 223, 226, 229–30
cashmere shawls 118, 120, 121, 124, 125, 128, 177, 179, 226
Circassian scarves 125, 129
mantelets 127
mantillas 123
mantles 35, 57, 60, 62, 73, 78, 79, 92, 108, 110, 118, 127–8, 131–2, 136, 138, 140, 141, 145–7, 149, 150, 152, 156, 157–8, 160, 161–2, 165, 166, 213, 215–16, 217, 220, 221, 222, 226, 230
mantles, coronation 25, 204, 232–3, 234
mantles, orders 205
Paisley shawls 220, 221
schalls unis 125
Scottish scarves 124, 125
tippets 57
Sheridan, Betsy 69
Shirts (men’s) 48–9, 84, 150, 151
collars 149, 150
ruffles 48, 49, 50, 98, 101, 102, 154, 179, 180
sleeves 85, 150, 151, 228
Shirts (women’s) 86, 87
Shoes (men’s) 49, 85, 99, 149, 150, 161, 179, 180
pumps 104
red-heeled 145
sabots 146
sandals 140, 151–2, 157, 230
Vandyke roses 205, 207, 208
Shoes (women’s) 6, 7, 53, 64, 65, 68, 129, 130
cothurnes 115, 116
sandals 92, 94, 138, 139, 202, 217
Siddons, Sarah 73, 74
Side-pads 64
Side-rumps 66
Silk 45, 46, 49, 52–3, 54, 57, 59, 62, 63, 65, 69–70, 71, 73–4, 75, 83, 84, 88, 89, 90, 92, 93, 99, 101, 104, 105, 122, 124–6, 128–30, 138, 140, 145, 161, 173, 177, 179, 184, 189, 191, 193, 195, 196–7, 200, 205, 206, 208, 211, 221, 222–3, 229, 232
aerophane 124, 126
bizarre 35
brocaded 42, 43–4, 45, 62, 160, 222, 228
chenille 126
crepe 120, 146
damask 222
figured 40, 42, 45
flowered 59
gauze 61, 62, 64, 66, 70, 78, 86, 113, 118, 121, 124, 126, 127, 137, 169, 200, 201–2, 223, 226–7
lutestring 64–5, 128
Lyons 42, 59, 60, 62, 154, 157
moiré, watered 54, 56
painted, from China 59
sarsnet 126, 231
satin 50, 51, 54, 70, 75, 78, 79, 85–6, 92, 98, 104, 108, 109, 110, 120, 122, 124–5, 126, 127, 129–31, 157, 158, 169–70, 177, 179, 191, 193, 194, 195, 198– 9, 200, 201, 208, 210, 211, 213, 216, 217, 223, 224, 231–2
shot-silk 52
Spitalfields 58, 59
stockinette 104
taffeta 6, 7, 42, 53, 64, 66, 70, 90, 137, 162–3, 164, 208, 210
tissue 126, 157, 162
tulle 120, 127
velvet 20, 40, 42–3, 45, 48, 75, 77, 78, 98, 99, 120, 122, 124, 126–8, 129, 131, 153–4, 155, 156, 157, 160–1, 162, 165, 170, 173–4, 177, 179–80, 191, 204, 213, 218, 222, 228, 231, 232–3, 234
silk industry, France 42, 59, 62, 120, 124, 154, 157
Simond, Louis 123
Simpson, James
Paris after Waterloo 125
Skeleton suit 75, 77
Sleeves (men’s)
slashed 176, 178, 187, 188, 207, 208
Sleeves (women’s) 213
manchettes 59
à la mameluke 125, 126
scalloped 200, 201–2, 213, 214
slashed 163, 165, 169, 151, 174, 177, 179–80, 189, 193–4
Smock (women’s) 222–3, 224–5
Smollett, Tobias
Peregrine Pickle 13
Snuff-boxes 45, 84
Sobry, J.-F.
Discours sur les principaux usages de la nation françoise 50, 133, 151
Sontag, Susan 14
Soubise, prince de 43
Southey, Robert 28
Spanish dress 149, 163, 165–6, 167, 195, 198, 207–8, 209, 212, 229, 230, 234
Spencer, Lady Betty 195
Sporting costume 104
archers 208
Staël, Madame de
Corinne 118
Stanley, Lord 210
Stendhal 40, 81, 107, 129, 144
Life of Rossini 133
Stephanoff, J. P.
‘King-His Train Borne by Eight Eldest Sons of Peers, The’ 232, 234
Stephen, King of England 190
Sterne, Laurence 23
Sentimental Journey, A 39
Tristram Shandy 23
Stockings (men’s) 49, 83, 85–6, 101, 104, 161, 204,
Stomacher 19, 35, 57, 62, 63, 67
diamond 60, 62
échelles 6, 7, 53
Stothard, Charles Alfred 187
drawing taken from the Romance of Alexander 186
Monumental Effigies of Great Britain 186
Strawberry Hill 12, 184–5, 195
Strutt, Joseph 184–7, 221
Complete View of the Dress and Habits of the People of England 184, 213
Complete View of the Manners, Customs, Arms, Habits & of the Inhabitants of England 184, 192
costume drawings 185
Queenhoo Hall 230
Regal and Ecclesiastical Antiquities of England, The 185
Stuart, Charles Edward 205
Style troubadour, le 31, 118, 123, 129, 139, 162, 169–70, 171, 172, 173–5
Suits (men’s) 40, 42, 44, 45–6, 46, 48–9, 53, 83–4, 95, 96, 104, 148, 150, 200, 201–2
frock 33, 34, 46, 47–8, 48–50, 50
Vandyke 195, 198, 203, 205, 206, 207, 208–10
Surr, T.S.
Winter in London, A 102
Swift, Jonathan 18
Swords 36, 37, 39, 45, 49, 78, 98, 149, 165, 187, 205, 230
Napoleon 154, 155, 157, 158, 160
Tailors, tailoring 30, 42–3, 45, 48, 68, 76, 86, 95, 99– 104, 107, 152, 220
Taylor’s Complete Guide, The 102–4
Talleyrand 120, 161, 231
Tallien, Thérèse 92, 109
Talma, François-Joseph 84, 140–1, 150, 159, 213
Teillard, Madame 91
Ternaux 125
Terror, Reign of 84–5, 89–90, 109, 144, 147, 152, 171
Theatre and dress 74, 123, 137, 139–42, 144, 148–9, 150, 163, 164, 167, 173, 183, 187–8, 189, 190, 198, 210–11, 213, 214, 217–18, 219, 222, 231, 232–3, 234
commedia dell’arte 162, 167
Thermidorean Reaction 95
Thibaudeau, A.-C.
Mémoires sur le Consulat 96, 154
Thicknesse, Philip
Useful Hints to Those who make the Tour of France 36, 56
Tights (men’s) 105, 148, 182, 230, 231
Tights (women’s) 213, 214
‘Timeless’ dress 13, 22–3, 25, 28, 73, 102, 183, 190, 220, 203, 213, 216, 217–18, 225, 226
Tischbein, Johann
Goethe in the Roman Campagna 222
Titian 23, 174, 207
Toms, Peter 9, 203
Tournai 155
Trade cards 102
Trench, Mrs 219
Tricolour, tricolour cockades, sashes 86, 91, 145–6, 147, 149, 150, 152–3, 154
Tricoteuses 109
Trinquesse, Louis-Rolland Portrait of a Woman 169
Trousers, pantaloons 85, 95, 96, 101–2, 103, 104–8, 109, 146, 147, 148, 149, 150, 151, 152, 153–5, 212, 222, 228, 230
cossacks 107, 230
inexpressibles 102, 105
Trousers (women’s) 222, 223, 224–5
bloomers 224
Trousseaux 127
Tudor costume 187, 188–91
Tunics (men’s) 187, 188
supertunica 234
Tunics (women’s) 91, 113, 118, 120, 127, 136–8, 224
Turkish dress, turquerie 219, 222–3, 223–5, 226, 228–9
Turner, J.M.W.
Richmond Hill on the Prince Regent’s Birthday 131
Tussaud, Madame 39, 185, 187, 234
Tyson, Revd Michael 183
Underwear (men’s)
corsets 231–2
Underwear (women’s) 9, 92
corsets, stays 18–19, 37, 54, 73, 94, 100, 107, 125, 140
divorce corset 177
drawers 105
shift 200
underbodices, chemisettes 109, 110–11, 113–14, 115, 118, 126, 127, 177, 179, 202, 220, 221
Uniforms (England) 39, 231
Windsor 49
Uniforms (France)
Consulate habit dégagé 154–5
First Empire 20, 98, 99, 154, 157, 161–2
National Guard 86
Vanderbank, John 195
Vandyke dress 74, 110, 128, 163, 167, 172, 181, 183, 184, 187, 188–9, 190, 191, 192, 195, 198, 199, 203, 204–6, 207, 208–11, 212
boys 208, 210, 211, 212
‘Vandykes’ 211–12
Vanmour, Jean-Baptiste 222
Vaughan, Walter
Essay Philosophical and Medical Concerning Modern Clothing 3, 104, 236
Veils 13, 127, 130, 138, 188, 189–90
‘Roman’ 118, 121, 128
Spanish 165
Velazquez 212
Venice 236
Vermeer, Jan 163, 169
Vernet, Carle 94, 104
consuls 153, 154
Incroyables 95, 104
Vernet, Horace 125
‘Costume anglais’ 125, 126
Incroyables 103, 104, 105
Merveilleuses 124, 125–6, 129
Versailles 144–5
Vertue, George 8, 183, 195, 199, 207
Vestris, Mademoiselle 141
Vien, J.-M. 140, 167, 217, 222
Cupid Seller, The 136
Françoise-Suzanne, marquise de Migieu 137, 138
Madame du Barry 137
Virtuous Athenian Girl, The 136, 137
Young Corinthian Girl, The 136–7, 137
Vigée-Lebrun, E.-L. 89, 118, 138
Charles-Alexandre de Calonne 50, 51
Madame Adélaïde Perrégaux 165
Marie de Gramont, duchesse de Caderousse 165
Queen Marie Antoinette 62, 71, 75–6, 77, 78
Self-portrait with a Straw Hat 14, 15, 165, 198
Villiers, John, Earl of Clarendon 5, 62, 67–8, 83
Vincent, François-André 152
Mademoiselle Duplant 86, 87
Voltaire 144
Brutus 84, 141
Henriade 167, 174
Waistcoats (men’s) 8, 18, 28, 34, 35, 40, 41–3, 45, 46, 48, 52–3, 84–5, 86, 94, 95, 96–101, 102, 104, 106, 107–8, 109, 145–6, 147, 153, 154, 161, 162, 200, 202, 230
Vandyke 211, 212
Waistcoats (women’s) 34, 35, 67, 69, 86
antery 222–3, 225
Walking-dress (men’s) 99, 100, 104
Walpole, Horace 8, 12, 36–8, 48–9, 59, 62, 66, 73, 85, 137, 163, 183–4, 184, 185, 189, 191–3, 195, 198, 200, 203–4, 208, 210–11, 228
Castle of Otranto 187
Waterloo, Battle of 231
Watteau, F.-L.-J. 76
Watteau, Jean-Antoine 162, 167, 207
Wellington, Duchess of 120
Wertmüller, A.-W.
Queen, the Dauphin and Madame Royale, The 75
West, Benjamin 27, 217
Weston, John 99
Wharton, Edith
Custom of the Country, The 7
Wheatley, Francis
Mrs Stevens 68, 69
Whitley, W. T. 66
Whittaker, John
Coronation of George the Fourth, The 232, 234
Whytell, Ann 9, 10
Wigs (men’s) 9, 27, 39, 45, 52, 84, 161, 163, 204, 205, 231
aile de pigeon 43
bag 46
bob 8
club 38, 39
lawyer’s 50, 51
à la mousquetaire 40, 41
periwig 200, 202
peruke 188, 232, 234
physical 8
powdered 17, 18–19, 37, 49, 84, 96, 98, 99, 221, 222
Wigs (women’s) 9, 115
Wilde, Samuel
Portrait of a Lady 109, 111
William III, King of Great Britain and Ireland 184
William the Conqueror 123, 184
Williams, Helen Maria 85
Willison, George
Nancy Parsons 223, 224, 226
Wilson, Henriette
Memoirs 100–1
Winckelmann, Johann Joachim
Geschichte der Kunst des Altertums 135
Wollstonecraft, Mary 3, 83
Wolsey, Cardinal 184, 191
Woodville, Elizabeth 189
Woollen cloths 30, 46, 68, 69, 95, 102–3, 107, 110, 115, 125, 127, 140, 152
broadcloth 48
cashmere 118, 120, 121, 124, 125, 127, 128, 177, 179
facecloth 95
flannel 107
kerseymere 92, 107, 154
Working-class garments 35, 69, 85, 107, 190
Worth, Charles-Frederick 6, 120
Wright, Joseph
John Whetham 229–30
Mr and Mrs Thomas Coltman 34, 35–6
Sir Brooke Boothby 48, 49, 52–3
Young, Arthur 81, 85
Zincke, Christian Friedrich 191
Zoffany, Johann
Family of Sir William Young 208, 210, 211
George III, Queen Charlotte and their Six Eldest Children 208
John, Lord Mountstuart 208
Queen Charlotte 54