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Description: An American Style: Global Sources for New York Textile and Fashion Design,...
Index
PublisherBard Graduate Center
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Index
Illustrations are indicated by page numbers in italics.
A
A. Beller & Co., 59, 66–67, 74, 79, 80, 81–82
Aaron, David. See David Aaron & Co. Embroideries
Abacá cloth jacket, 66
African motifs, 59
Ainu motifs, 50, 56, 82, 87, 91
Akimel O’odham (Pima) motifs, 35, 35, 43, 45
American Arts and Crafts movement, 14, 26, 28, 41, 57, 95
American Museum Journal, 36, 38, 60–61, 62, 123, 126
American Museum of Natural History (AMNH): Asian Ethnographic Collections, 61
collaboration with design industry, 7, 13–14, 16, 18–19, 25, 38, 89, 93–94
Department of Anthropology, 14–16, 18, 25, 29, 33–34, 59, 73, 89, 91, 94
disseminating design through lectures and writings, 25, 36–45, 59, 95
Division of Anthropology Archives, 13
loans of ethnographic garments to fashion designers, 59–60, 91
specimens and study rooms, 31–36, 32. See also Exhibition of Industrial Art in Textiles and Costumes
American Silk Journal, 91–92, 92
Amur River motifs, 43, 56
Amy Mali Hicks Studio, 58
“Ancient Peruvian Cloths” (Mead), 38
Andean motifs, 77, 81
Animal hides, 38, 41, 41, 48, 51
Anthropology Papers of the American Museum, 36
Anthropometric photography, 57
Anti-modernism, 21
Arapaho motifs, 37, 82
The Architect and Industrial Arts (exhibition 1929), 96
Arctic cultures. See Eskimo motifs; Inuit culture
Armfield, Maxwell, 42, 45, 56
Armory Show (New York 1913), 14
Arthur Wesley Dow Summer School at Emerson House, 27
Atelier Martine, 27
Aurora, New York, 28
Austin, Mary, 28
Avant-garde aesthetics, 14, 27–28, 57
Aztec art, 27, 39, 39, 43
B
Bach, Richard F., 13, 60–61, 89, 91
Bagobo people, 81
Bark cloth, 39, 50, 57, 61, 77
Basketry, 32, 39, 44, 45, 82, 86, 122
Batchelder, Ernest, 37–38, 38, 95, 122
Batik, 20, 41, 57, 68, 76, 77, 79, 81–82, 83
Beadwork, 37, 47, 56, 67, 86, 93, 95
Belding Brothers, 43, 45
Bird, Harry, 59
Bird motifs, 59, 77, 106–7
Blackfoot motifs, 37, 57, 67, 78, 79, 92, 93, 126, 129
Blanck & Co., 79
Blausen, Whitney, 18, 42
Block printing, 41, 75–77, 76, 123
Blum, Albert, 16, 89
Boas, Franz, 18
Bonwit Teller & Co., 57, 59, 59–61, 62, 65, 74, 79, 80, 91, 96, 114
Boston Society of Arts and Crafts, 16
Braun, Barbara, 21
British handicraft and folk art, 13
Brooklyn Eagle (April 5, 1939), 17
Brooklyn Museum Institute, 14, 16, 32, 45, 79, 81, 90, 93
Bruno’s Weekly, 28
Bukhara motifs, 65
Burmese motifs, 60
C
Camera Work (magazine), 28
Canterbury Cretonnes, 76, 77
Central America expedition (1917), 34
Central Textile Co., 37
Cheney, Charles, 89
Cheney Bros. Silks, 42, 43, 45, 85, 86, 114–15
Cheyenne motifs, 78, 79
Chilkat Northwest Coast bark cloth, 39
Chinese motifs, 61
Chiriquí (Panama) motifs, 41–42
Clifford, James, 29
Coady, Robert J., 28
Cole, Henry, 13
Collins, Harry, 67, 74, 79–81, 80, 109–10
Colombian motifs, 34, 61, 95
Colonial revival, 26
Columbia University’s Teachers College, 27, 42
Comanche motifs, 93
Composition (Dow), 27
“The Conventionalized Figures of Ancient Peruvian Art” (Mead), 37
Coptic motifs, 59, 65, 79
Coster, Esther A., 35, 35–36, 38
“Costumes of the Plains Indians” (Wissler), 37
The Craftsman (magazine), 38
Crawford, M. D. C. (Morris De Camp), 16
biography, 108
and Designed in America movement, 16
and Exhibition of Industrial Art in Textiles and Costumes, 13, 73, 81–85
outreach to fashion industry, 25, 29–31, 33, 55, 59–63
post-exhibition career, 90, 96
post-exhibition role of AMNH, 89
publications and lectures by, 36, 36, 39–45, 42, 60, 123
“Creating a National Art” (Spinden), 96
“Creative Textile Art and the American Museum” (Crawford), 45, 123
Crow motifs, 82
Culin, Stewart, 14, 18, 73, 79, 90, 93, 96
Curren, Arthur, 41, 44, 45
D
Dakota Indian motifs, 37, 61
David Aaron & Co. Embroideries, 73–74, 79, 82, 84, 115
“Decorative Value of American Indian Art” (Coster), 35
“Design and Color in Ancient Fabrics” (Crawford), 38
Designed in America campaign, 16, 29
Design in Theory and Practice (Batchelder), 38, 122
“Designs from Primitive American Motifs” (Dow), 27
Dorn, Marion, 42
Doucet, Jacques, 55
Dow, Arthur Wesley, 13–14, 19, 27–29, 33, 42, 95
Dress Up Bureau advertisements, 56, 57
Dryden, Helen, 92
Dye crisis of World War I, 41
E
École Martine, 27
Embroidery, 41, 57, 59, 66, 71, 76, 77, 79, 81–82, 84
Engel, J., 41
Eskimo motifs, 6, 78, 79, 87
Ethnography and ethnographic collections, 14, 16, 19, 27–28, 30–36, 45
European design centers, U.S. reliance on interrupted by World War I, 7, 13, 15, 25, 55, 95
Exhibition of Industrial Art in Textiles and Costumes (AMNH 1919), 72–87
background, 7, 15, 18–20, 58
batiks and embroidery, 81–82, 83–84
critical responses, 82–87
Eastern Woodlands Hall, 74–75, 78–79
fashion installations, 78, 78–81, 80
follow-up to, 89–94, 96
goals of, 73–74
installation of, 74, 74, 76
list of exhibitors, 74, 130
organizing committee, 73
Plains Indians Hall, 74–75
press release, 73
and Spinden, 73–75, 77–78, 90
textile technologies, 74–77, 74–78
Exploitive appropriation, 59, 61–63, 87, 95
F
Fairchild, E. W., 16
Falls, Charles B., 92, 127
Fashion designers, 54–63
AMNH collaboration with, 7, 13–14, 16, 18–19, 25, 38, 89, 93–94
AMNH curators reaching out to, 55–56
drawing upon AMNH collections, 57–63, 90
loans of ethnographic garments to, 59–60, 91
Women’s Wear showing styles inspired by Indian exhibit, 55. See also specific designers and department stores
Field Museum, 32
Filene’s Sons and Co., 82
Folk cultures, 30
Freed, Stanley, 18, 90
Frutchey, Charles A., 59
Fry, Marshall, 35
Fulton, Jock, 45
Functionality, 58, 87
Funsten Brothers, 82
Fur garments, 79, 81. See also Koryak fur garments
G
Georgian style, 26
Global motifs, 54–63
Goddard, Pliny E., 18, 82–84
Goldwater, Henry, 41
Goldwater, Robert, 21
Goode, George Brown, 32–33
Good Furniture, 26
Green, K. L., 92
Greenwich Village, New York City, 20, 28, 45, 57, 59, 81
Guatemalan motifs, 34, 44, 59–60, 70–71, 77, 83, 125
H
H. R. Mallinson & Co., 19–20, 42, 44, 45, 74–77, 81, 92, 94, 115–16, 121, 123, 125–26, 129
Haney, James P., 89
Hanson, E. Irving, 45, 89
Harris, William Laurel, 16, 26, 29, 45, 90
Hart, Harriet, 44, 45
Hartley, Marsden, 28
Harvard’s Peabody Museum, 90
Hausa motifs, 48, 56
Heinke, Alfred J., 45
Hoganson, Kristin, 25
Hopi motifs, 35, 91
Huipil, 34, 60, 70, 82, 125
Hutchinson, Elizabeth, 21, 38
I
“Imagined community” of dress, 25
“Imperialist Nostalgia,” 57
Inca motifs, 92, 127
“Indian Beadwork: A Help for Students of Design” (Wissler), 37, 86, 122
The Indian Craze: Primitivism, Modernism, and Transculturation in American Art, 1890–1915 (Hutchinson), 21
“Indian Pottery and Decorative Arts” (Spinden), 59
Indigenous American designs and materials, 7, 13, 26–27, 57. See also National design language; specific tribes and cultures
“In Search of a National Style” (Blausen), 16, 18
Interdisciplinary methodology, 18
Inuit culture, 38, 78, 79
J
J. A. Migel, Inc., 74
J. Wise Company, 20, 25, 69–71, 82, 83, 91, 114
Japanese designs, 81, 93
Javanese textiles, 56, 81
Jesup North Pacific Expedition (1897–1902), 31
Johnson, Cowdin & Co., 20, 45, 116
John Wanamaker department store, 16, 43, 45, 60, 60, 116
Joseph Berlinger, 45
K
Kahn, Otto, 79, 81–82
Karasz, Ilonka, 16, 19–20, 44, 45, 48, 53, 57, 110, 123, 126
Karasz, Mariska, 52, 57–60, 106, 110–11
Kent, Henry Watson, 13–14, 42, 91
Keramic Society of New York, 35
Kevorkian Gallery, 79
Khaki-Kool silk line, 45
King, Elizabeth Miner, 25, 55
Kissell, Mary Lois, 33, 95
Korean motifs, 52, 57
Koryak fur garments, 51, 56–57, 61, 67, 78, 79, 81, 95, 127
L
Ladies Home Journal’s American Fashions for American Women campaign, 26
La Guardia, Fiorello, 90
Land of Desire (Leach), 18
Leach, William, 18
Lears, T. J. Jackson, 21
Levinson & Bessels Manufacturing, 43, 45
“The Loom in the New World” (Crawford), 38
Looms. See Weaving and looms
Lowry, Helen Bullitt, 85
Lucas, Frederic, 57, 90
Luhan, Mabel Dodge, 28
M
MacCurdy, George Grant, 42
Marshall Field & Company, 76, 77
Mayan motifs, 29, 59, 60, 92, 127
Mayer, Edward L., 59, 61, 93, 95–96, 111
McKnight, Lola, 92
Mead, Charles W., 14
biography, 108
curatorial role of, 38
and Exhibition of Industrial Art in Textiles and Costumes, 13
outreach to fashion industry, 18–20, 25, 29, 33–34, 95–96
post-exhibition role of AMNH, 91
publications and lectures by, 36, 36–38, 45, 93, 122
Mechlin, Leila, 32–33
Meserole, Harriet, 20, 37, 51, 57, 61, 91, 91, 111
Mesoamerican civilizations, 29–30, 38–39, 45
Metropolitan Museum of Art, 14, 16, 33, 61, 90–91, 93–94, 96
The Costume Institute, 108
Mexican motifs, 33, 45, 125
Mexixe line, 45, 121
Meyer, Max, 20, 42, 66–67, 73–74, 79, 80, 81, 111–12
Milbank, Caroline, 25–26
Mitschke, Walter, 92–94, 93, 129
Moccasins, 38–39
Modern art movement, 14, 21
Modernist primitivism, 21, 27–31
Monroe Doctrine (1823), 30
Moreland, Georgia, 41
Moro jackets, 60
“Morris De Camp Crawford and American Textile Design, 1916–1921” (Whitley), 16
“Museum age” (1880–1920), 31
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, 93
Museum of Modern Art, 96
Museum of the American Indian, 93
N
Nanai fish-skin coats, 69, 82
National Arts Club (New York), 16
National design language: adaptation of indigenous motifs to inform, 13–14, 42, 42, 95–96
and AMNH exhibition (1919), 16, 18, 21
Crawford’s call for, 30, 45, 61
Dow’s call for, 29
lack of, at time of World War I, 26
Wissler’s call for, 39
National Museum of the American Indian, 93
Native American Art and the New York Avant-Garde (Rushing), 21
Native Americans. See Indigenous American designs and materials; National design language; specific tribes and cultures
Natural History, 89
Navajo motifs, 35, 84, 86, 121
Neoclassical style, 26
New York: design education in, 27–31
fashion at time of World War I, 25. See also Greenwich Village, New York City
New York Times: on Exhibition of Industrial Art in Textiles and Costumes, 85
on Women’s Wear design contests, 42
Nivkhi fish-skin coats, 56, 127
“Northern Colombian clay cylinder” print, 29
Notan, 27
Nuxalk (Bella Coola) mask, 53, 57
O
O’Hara, Dorothea Warren, 35, 35
Ojibwa motifs, 35, 35, 95
Orientalism, 20, 55
Oriental Silk Co., 41, 41
Osborn, Henry Fairfield, 29, 73, 84, 89–90
P
Panama-Pacific International Exposition (San Francisco 1915), 42
Paquin, Jeanne, 55
Paracas motifs, 76, 77, 81
Persian motifs, 79, 81, 85
“Peruvian Art: A Help for Students of Design” (Mead), 37, 93, 122
Peruvian motifs, 29, 29, 33–34, 34, 36, 37–38, 43, 45, 57, 76–77, 77, 93, 95, 125
Philadelphia Commercial Museum, 89
Philippine motifs, 60, 66, 71, 81–82, 87, 95
Plains Indians, 15, 31, 37–38, 58, 74, 79, 81, 122
Poiret, Paul, 25, 27, 55, 57
Post-Columbian World: Ancient American Sources of Modern Art (Braun), 21
Powys, Marion, 85, 85
Primitive Negro Art: Chiefly from the Belgian Congo (exhibition 1923), 96
“Primitive Textile Arts” (Wissler), 39, 40
Primitive textile decoration vs. modern machine ornamentation, 41
Primitivism, 13, 21, 96
use of term “primitive,” 20–21
Primitivism and Modern Art (Goldwater), 21
“Primitivism” in 20th Century Art (Rubin), 21
The Principles of Design (Batchelder), 38, 122
Printing technologies, 74–78
Prior, Sylverna, 61
Q
Quillwork, 37, 39
R
Reeves, Ruth, 19, 35, 42, 49, 57, 61, 74, 79, 81, 83, 93–94, 112
Reindeer Tungus (Evenk) tribe, 81
Reiss, Fritz Winold, 28
Rodman, Henrietta, 58
Roller stamps, 33, 34, 45, 75, 77, 93, 94, 125
Roosevelt Corollary (1904), 30
Rosaldo, Renato, 57
Rubin, William, 21
Rushing, William Jackson, 21, 27
Ryther, Martha, 19–20, 35, 42, 43, 45, 74, 77, 77, 79, 81, 83, 94, 112–13
S
Sabine, William H., 57
“Salvage anthropology,” 33
Scarves, 41, 42
Sherwood, George, 34
Shoshoni motifs, 129
Siberia. See Koryak fur garments; Nivkhi fish-skin coats
Silk (trade journal), 26
Silk designs, 41, 41, 45, 52, 69, 77, 81, 85, 91–93, 129
Sioux motifs, 47, 56, 61, 78, 79, 86–87, 92–93, 129
Slaughter, Hazel Burnham, 42, 74, 77, 79, 81, 83, 113, 126
Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History, 32
The Soil (magazine), 28
Southwest Indians, 31. See also specific tribes
“Special Textile Processes and Products” (Crawford), 39
Spinden, Herbert J., 17
biography, 108–9
curatorial role and outreach to fashion industry, 18–20, 25, 29–31, 55, 63
and Exhibition of Industrial Art in Textiles and Costumes, 13, 16, 73–75, 77–79, 81–82, 90, 95
expedition to Central America, 34
lectures by, 38–39, 39, 59, 126
post-exhibition career, 90
post-exhibition role of AMNH, 89–90
Stehli Silk Co., 92, 127
Steichen, Edward, 92
Stickley, Gustav, 38
Stieglitz, Alfred, 28
“A Study of Chiriquian Antiquities” (MacCurdy), 42
“A Suggested Study of Costumes” (Wissler), 38
T
Tannahill, Mary, 68, 74, 79, 81, 83
Taos, New Mexico, 27
Tapa Oceanic bark cloth, 39, 57
Tarbell, Ida M., 26
Tariffs on European goods, 26
Tea gown, 66
Tehuelche (Patagonia), 39, 41
Terminology, explanation of, 20–21
“Textile Arts of Mexico and Central America” (Spinden), 39, 126
“Textile Arts of Peru” (Crawford), 41
“The Textile Museum, Its Value as an Educational Factor” (Kissell), 33
Textile techniques, 74–77, 74–77
Things American (Trask), 63
Tice, Clara, 58
Titicaca motifs, 45
Tohoro O’odham (Papago) motifs, 43, 45
Traphagan, Ethel, 91
Trask, Jeffrey, 14, 63
Tungus garments, 57
Turkish designs, 79
Turner, Jessie Franklin, 19, 59–61, 62, 65, 73, 79, 80, 93, 95, 113–14
U
United States’ hemispheric supremacy, 30
United States National Museum of Natural History (Smithsonian Institution), 32
V
Vogue, 25, 58, 61, 62, 91, 91, 92
W
Walls, Mary, 60
Wanamaker. See John Wanamaker department store
Warren, Winifred, 65, 74, 79, 80
Waugh, Gwenyth & Coulton, 45, 85
Wax-resist process, 81
Weaving and looms, 34, 34, 38, 41, 74, 74, 125
Weber, Max, 28
West African Hausa motifs, 48, 56
Whitley, Lauren, 16, 42, 90
Wilhoit, Phoebe, 91, 92
Wilson, Imogene, 93–94
Winslow, Leon, 89
Wissler, Clark, 15
anthropology curatorial role of, 34, 38
biography, 109
and Exhibition of Industrial Art in Textiles and Costumes, 13
lectures and publications by, 36, 37, 38–39, 40, 58, 86, 122
outreach to fashion industry, 18–20, 25, 29, 34, 45, 60, 91
post-exhibition role of AMNH, 89, 91, 95–96
on “salvage anthropology,” 33
Witters, Nell, 77
Women’s Wear: Crawford as journalist for, 13, 15, 29, 41–42, 89–91
design contests, 16–17, 42, 45
on Exhibition of Industrial Art in Textiles and Costumes, 85–86
on Indian beadwork and embellishments, 37
Making Designers column, 25–26
posters, illustrations, etc., 73
showing styles inspired by Indian exhibit, 55
on World War I Euro-American styles, 25
Woodstock, New York, 28
World War I, 7, 13, 18, 25, 55, 95
Worth, Charles Frederick, 55
Y
Yakut culture, 79
Ye Greenwich Village Prints, 85
Yucatan hieroglyphs design, 28
Z
Zorach, Marguerite, 28, 42
Zorach, William, 28
Zuni motifs, 35, 91, 93–94, 129