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John Styles (Editor), Amanda Vickery (Editor)
Description: Gender, Taste, and Material Culture in Britain and North America, 1700–1830
Index
Author
John Styles (Editor), Amanda Vickery (Editor)
PublisherYale Center for British Art
PublisherPaul Mellon Centre
View chapters with similar subject tags
Index
Illustrations are indicated by page numbers in italics.
 
Accounting and account books: credit and, 125–28, 130, 131, 182
women and, 8, 13, 194
Adam, Robert, 273, 284–85
Adams, Abigail, 235, 272
Adams, Henry, 239
Adams, John, 229–32, 234–35, 239, 272
Adams, Samuel, 1
Addison, Joseph, 16
Advertising: consumer choice highlighted in, 141
gender and, 12
manipulative power of, 151
neatness and, 216
shopping and, 2, 171
Aesthetics: domestic, 9, 154
language of, 11, 204, 205, 215, 218–19
taste and, 15, 18, 57
Agency: in consumption, 62
shopping and, 180–91
Age of Homespun, The (Ulrich), 24
Alcock, Thomas, 254
Alcohol consumption, 249, 251–54, 255
Ambiguity and social imaginary, 84
America, 22–25
consumer culture, 126, 231, 235
crafts of, 23
manufactured goods, 225, 235, 241–42
Ancestry, portraits as documentation of, 331–39
Anson, Thomas, 206, 209, 214–15
Antiquarianism and portrait collections, 331, 338
Apothecary, 76, 253
Apprentices, housing of, 63
Arches, 154, 155, 210
Architecture: closets in house plans, III design and communal identity, 267
Federal style, 267
gendered spaces, 10–11
Georgian style, 216
house design, 10, 44–57, 81–84, 267–86
Neoclassical style, 269, 273
Neo-Palladian style, 83
Palladian style, 113
privacy and, no, 114
shops use of, 154–57, 185–86
in wallpaper patterns, 210
Aristocracy: and duty to maintain family collections, 340
laboring class and, 255
marriage and ancestry of, 316–20
portrait collections of, 317, 340
taste and, 252
Armitage, David, 23
Arnold, Benedict, 86
Art: gender and, 315
locations to display, 331
material culture and, 22
as parlor furnishings, 50, 56
portrait collections, 315–44
Artisans, 42, 44
Assembly halls, 154
Atherton, Elizabeth, 316
Auctions, 152
Austen, Jane, 283
Autobiography (Franklin), 231
Autonomy in consumer choice, 133–46
 
Backway, Benjamin, 93, 95
Bacon, John, 278–81, 286
Bailey, Lucy, 191
Baird, Rosemary, 323
Ball, Jane, 136–37
Barbauld, Anna Laetitia, 108
Barber, John Warner, 94
Barbon, Nicholas, 249
“Bargain hunter,” 166
Baring, Thomas, 204, 215
Barksdale, Eliza, 196–97
Barley, Maurice, 97
Barnard, Hannah, 9
Barthes, Roland, 293
Bayley, Lewis, 114
Beau monde: attempts to join, 296–98
fashion and, 293–313
identity, 347
defined through dress, 308
jewelry and, 303, 307
masculinity and, 5
political allegiance and, 300–301
social networks and, 299
Beauty: language of, 215
virtue of when shopping, 133
Bedchamber: closets and, iii
as reading space, 88, 89, 91
Bed coverings, 74–75
Beds, 61, 71
Beer, 249
Bell, Rebecca, 55–57
Bell, Robert, 101
Benjamin Franklin (Duplessis), 236
Benjamin Franklin (Feke), 230
Bennett, Elizabeth, 55–57
Bennett, Joshua, 55–57
Bennett, Mary, 85, 88
Bennett, Sarah, 85
Bentley, Thomas, 18
Bess of Hardwick, 327
Bingham, William and Anne, 272, 273, 279
Birdcages, 50
Bisset, Richard Lamar, 272–73
Bluck, John, 305
Blyth, B., 185
Boddington, John, 300
Books: as dangerous, 101
as evidence of literacy, 50
feminine quality of, 12
fiction and novels, 85–86
laboring class and, 248
living spaces described in, 107–8
as object of male material culture, 163
popularity of, 85–86
religious, 85
Booksellers, 86, 88
Borsay, Peter, 18
Boscawen, Fanny, 171
Boswell, James, 5–6, 63
Bourdieu, Pierre, 18
Bourgeoisie, 247, 252, 255
Bownd, James, 85
Boyce, Antipas, 96
Boydell, John, 84, 96
Bradshaigh, Lady, 87–88
Braithwaite, Martha, 154, 155
Brass, 71, 77
Braziers, 81
Breen, Timothy, 1, 23, 126
Bricklayers, 97–98
Bridle, Martha, 68
Britain: Acts of Trade and Navigation, 235
manufactured goods, i, 8, 225, 235, 248, 286
material culture and, 23
North America and, 22–25, 248
Broadcloth, 225
Brown, Mather, 233
Brydges, James, 98–100
Buck, Anne, 294
Bunyan, Mary, 70
Burney, Fanny, 2
Burr, Esther Edwards, 86–92, 103, 110
Burr, Reverend Aaron, 86
Bushman, Richard, 126
Bust of King George III (Bacon), 279
Buttons, 226
Byng, John, 3, 11
 
Cabinet Dictionary (Sheraton), 216
Caesar, Jane Adelmare, 320–21
Caesar, Julius Adelmare, 320–21
Candles, 258
Candlesticks, 71
Capitalist ideology, 247, 248
Carpenter, Jabez, 132, 140
Carpenters, 97, 98
Carter, Landon, 182, 188, 195
Carter, Lucy, 182, 187, 188
Cary, John, 249
Cash, 131, 192–95, 197
Cavendish, Charles, 325, 338
Cavendish, Henrietta, 12–13, 320, 324–40
Cavendish, William, 325, 327
Cellars, 55, 69
Ceramics, 42
Certeau, Michel de, 43
Chairs, 281, 285
Chamberlayne, Rebecca, 193
Chandler, Winthrop, 93
Chandler’s Shop Gossips, or Wonderful News, The (artist unknown), 159
Chandos, Duke of, 98–100
Characteristics of Men, Manners, Opinions, Times (Shaftesbury), 267
Charles, 9th Viscount Irwin (Wilson), 318
Charles II, 323
Charwoman, 69
Cheesemonger, 76
Child, Josiah, 248
Chimneypieces, 48, 53, 277–81, 280, 329–30, 330
China, feminine quality of, 12
Chippendale, Thomas, 11, 12, 271
Choice: advertisement of, 141
authority and, 188
autonomy and, 133–46
beau monde and, 295
collaborative shopping and, 126
consumer credit and, 8, 128, 132
economics of, 127–33
fashion and, 294
gender and, 140–42
heirlooms and, 339
material culture and, 16
ownership and, 188
politics and, 125–49
proxy shopping and, 8, 125, 128, 142
shopping and, 151–77, 181–91
shops and, 151–77
slaves and, 136
taste and, 18, 20, 133–35
women and, 187–91, 197
Christian, Priscilla, 182
Clarissa (Richardson), 85, 86–88, 109–22
Clark, William, 84
Clayton, Christopher, 97
Clayton, John, 256–57
Clerical workers, 69, 70
Clocks, 50
Closets: devotional use of, 92
as feminine space, 103, 109–22
as haven, 91
in literature, 109–22
as masculine space, 103
as protected space, 100, 117
as reading space, 91
use and locations, 83–84, 91–100, 109–22
Cloth. See Textiles
Clothing. See Dress
Coach-harness maker, 76
Coats of arms, 322, 329
Cobbett, William, 17
Coffins, 37, 119
Coggan, John, 93
Collecting: aristocracy and, 340
and decorum, 338
women and, 12–13
Colman, Benjamin, 102
Colonial-style houses, 273
Color, language of, 208–10
Commerce: and laboring class, 248–60
women and, 192. See also Merchants
Confinement of spaces and gender, 91, 100
Conservative social thought, 3, 248, 256–57, 260
Consumer culture: American, 126, 231, 235
choice and, 171
feminization of, 228, 253
French, 251
gendered analysis of, 181, 229
laboring class and, 248–63
social character of shopping and, 195–97. See also Choice
Consumption: agency in, 62
attitudes to possessions
of British goods by Americans, 225, 235
choice in, 62, 125–49
decency and, 252
domestic, 247
gendered analysis of, 6–7, 164–67, 180, 186, 253
household as center of, 180
indirect, 77
laboring class and, 251
male, patterns of, 6
politicization of, 231
shopping and, 165
social class and, 146, 180
Contingency and social imaginary, 84
Coopers, 81
Copper, 71, 77
Correspondence shopping, 170, 171
Cotton: counterpanes, 20, 74–75
curtains, 74
furnishings, expense of, 75
laboring class and, 248, 249
quilts, 74
Cotton, John, 93
Cottrell-Dormer, Charles, 320–21
Cottrell-Dormer, Jane, 338
Counterpanes, 20, 71, 72, 74–75
Country Gentleman’s Architect, The (Miller), 272
Court at St. James, The (artist unknown), 304
Court dresses, 301–3, 302
Courtney, Nicolas, 339–40
Courts of law, 3, 61–80, 217
Cox and Berry, 88
Crabtree, Henry, 68
Craftsmen, 69
Credit, consumer: access to, 128
autonomy of choice and, 8, 128, 132, 133
commercial economy and, 127, 145, 146
networks, 132, 182
women and, 191, 192–95
Crests, family, 322, 329
Crooke, Robert, 128, 130, 131, 136
Crow, Thomas, 183
Culture. See Material culture
Cunningham, Nathanial, 83, 96
Curtains, 71–74, 100
Curwen, Samuel, 317
Custodianship of ancestral property, 12, 339
Cutlery, 194–95, 251
 
D’Agar, Charles, 333, 334
Dahn, Johanna, 9
Damask, 203
Davidoff, Leonore, 295
Davies, David, 258
Decency: alcohol’s effect on, 255
as criteria for economic hierarchy, 252, 256
laboring class and, 247, 253–57
Decoration. See Interior decoration
Decorum: collections and, 338
gendered rooms and, 10–11
house design and, 10
morality and, 17
taste and, 16–17
wallpaper choice and, 215–16
Deetz, James, 23, 24
Defoe, Daniel, 2, 108, 249–50, 259–60
Delany, Mary: on Cavendish portrait collection, 331–34, 337, 338
china display of, 9
domestic division of labor and, 7
lexicon of aesthetics and, 11
Deptford architecture, 44–57
Description of the Miseries of a Garreteer Poet, A (artist unknown), 66
Design books, 12, 272
Devis, Arthur, 315–16
Devonshire House art collection, 331
de Vries, Jan, 7, 187
Diaries, 85, 296–97
Discourses (Reynolds), 15
Distressed Poet, The (Hogarth), 65
Dodson, Martha, 203
Domestic economy: as criteria for economic hierarchy, 256
laboring class and, 247–63
women and, 187–91
Domestic privacy, 107–8
Doors and windows: casements for, 48, 53
laboring class and, 258
shops use of, 2, 153, 155
Drapers, 157, 158, 166
Drawing Room, St. James’s (Bluck), 305
Dress: breeches, 226–28, 227, 243
buckles, 226
coats, 129, 163, 226–28, 227, 241, 245
court dresses, 301–3
fans, 143,
gowns, 129, 144, 301–3
hats, 61, 226
laboring class and, 251, 252
mantuas, 52–53, 55
masculinity and, 241–43
ribbons, 160, 181–87
royal court and, 301–3
velvet, 226
women’s purchases of, 194. See also Fashion
Dressmakers, 52–53, 55
Dressmaking shop, 52–57
Drunkenness, 251–55
Dumoy, Mary, 140
Duplessis, Joseph Siffred, 236
Dwight, Thomas, 239–40
Dyke, John, 213, 215
 
Earthenwares, 248, 249, 251
East India Company, 248
Economy: of choice, 127–33
political, 248–52
virtue of, 231, 247. See also Domestic economy
Eden, Frederick, 258
Edwards, Jonathan, 85, 86
Elite class: beau monde and, 293–313
closets of, 96
communal identity and, 267
consumer culture and, 133
as custodians of ancestral property, 339
domestic aesthetics of, 154
fashion and, 240, 242–43, 309
gender and, 6, 193
leisure and entertainment venues, 154
literature and, 85
marriage and ancestry of, 316–20
material culture and, 135, 228–34, 237, 299
portrait collections of, 317, 321, 324–40
proxy shopping and, 136, 193
relationship with merchants, 182
shopping and, 141, 154
social networks and, 170–71
taste and, 15, 16
Elizabeth I, 320–21
Ellis, William, 214
Ellyott, John, Jr., 96
Embroidery, 56, 239
Emlen, Susanna, 279, 285
“Ende of the Clossette” (Smythson), 94
Etiquette, 301
European manufactured goods, 180, 225
European Traveller in America, The, 19
Evans, William, 214
Evelina (Burney), 2
Expedition of Humphry Clinker, The (Smollett), 3
 
Fairs and fairings, 183
Fanlights, 275–77, 276
Farrin, Jane, 217
Fashion: beau monde and, 293–313
British, 286
elite class and, 240, 242–43, 309
Federal style and, 229–31
feminization of, 228
gendered, 102
leading to moral decay, 3
masculinity and, 228–29, 237, 240–43
material culture and, 127, 298
political allegiance and, 300–301
republican, 239
shopping and, 165
sociability and, 234
social networks impact on, 170–71
social status and, 294
wallpaper and, 214
women and, 168, 243
Fashion System, The (Barthes), 293
Faulkner, Thomas, 323
Federal style, 229, 267
Feke, Robert, 230
Females. See Gender; Women
Femininity: of certain commodities, 12
of closet spaces, 103, 109–22
consumer culture and, 228, 253
critiques of, 42
epistolary and, 100
fashion and, 228
of lace, 239
luxury and, 16
of retail space, 158–62
of rooms, 218
shopping and, 228
of tea tables, 50
of wallpaper, 217
Ferris, Thomas, 201
Fiction. See Books
Fielding, Henry, 86, 112–13, 191
Financiers, 248–49
Finn, Margot, 4
Fireplace. See Chimneypieces
Fish sellers, 69
Flint & Palmer, 166
Floral wallpaper patterns, 210
Fludyer, Samuel, 213
Following the Fashion (Gillray), 296, 297
Food, 42
Foot, Ann, 81–83, 82
Fox, Caroline, 8, 322–23, 338
Fox, Charles, 323
Fox, Henry, 322–23
Fox-Strangways, Susan, 323
Frames, portrait, 321, 329
France, 15, 251
Frances, Viscountess Irwin (Wilson), 319
Franklin, Benjamin, 231–32, 235–36
Friendly Advice to the Poor (Clayton), 256–57
Furniture: American, 23
availability of, 42
gilded, 112
japanned, 11, 112
laboring class and, 249, 251
parlour, 50, 52–53, 282–85
shops use of, 154. See also specific rooms
 
Garret chamber, 56, 63, 64, 69, 72, 76, 83
Garrison, J. Ritchie, 21
Gee, James, 20
Gender: advertising and, 12
art and, 315
consumer choice and, 140–42
consumer culture and, 181, 229
decorum and, 215–16
differences in criticisms of shopping, 164–67
division of desire, 253, 260
division of labor, 252, 253, 260
fashion and, 102
influence on architecture of houses, 10–11, 44–57
interior decoration and, 267–91
and inventories, 84
material culture and, 2–14, 22, 127, 187
perspective on, 42
portrait collections and, 315–44
retail space and, 158–62
shopping and, 141–42, 145, 151–52, 162–68, 179–200
taste and, 2–14, 168
Genealogy, 315–44
Gentleman and Cabinet-Maker’s Director, The (Chippendale), 11
Gentry. See Elite class
George III, 162, 307
George IV, 204, 209
Georgian style: furniture design by women, 283
interior decoration and, 210
in London, 267
neatness of, 216
Gilbert, Henry, 76
Gilded materials: furniture, 112
portrait frames, 329
shops use of, 154
Gillis, Christina Marsden, 107
Gillray, James, 296, 297
Gin, consumption of, 254
Girouard, Mark, 10
Glass, shops’ use of, 154
Glennie, J. S., 139
Globes, 163
Goldsmith, Oliver, 86, 101
Goldsmiths, 154
Gookin, Daniel, 88
Goulding, Richard W, 334
Gray, Edward, 85
Greene, Jack, 23
Grimes, Abraham, 6
Grocers, 76
Guns, 163
 
Haberdashery, 12
Habitus, 44
Hadwin, Ruth, 133
Hague, Benjamin, 329–31
Hall, Catherine, 295
Ham, Elizabeth, 50
Harcourt, Lydia, 61, 62, 63
Harley, Edward, 324
Harlots, 37
Harlot’s Progress, The (Hogarth), 38–41, 64
Harrateen, 71, 73–74
Harrower, John, 188
Haywood, Eliza, 254
Heirlooms, 339–40
Hellier, Cathy, 196
Henrietta Cavendish Holles, Countess of Oxford (Kneller), 328
Heraldic devices, 322, 329, 338
Herbert, Elizabeth, 320
Herbert, Henry, 320
Hering, Oliver, 142
Higginson, Catherine, 76
Hill, Frances Baylor, 195–9 6
Hill, Henry and Ann, 267–86, 268
Hog, Elizabeth, 182
Hogarth, William, 37, 38–41, 64, 65
Holland House, 322, 322–23
Holles, Frescheville, 334
Holles, Gervase, 331, 334, 340
Holles, John, 325
Holles, Margaret, 325
Holyoke, John, 81
Honyman, Frances, 132
Hook, John, 185–86, 186, 192, 193–94
Hooker, Thomas, 93
Horn, James, 24
Horry, Harriott, 135–36, 142
Housekeeping
Houses: availability of, 42
design and decoration of, 10–11, 111, 267–91
furnishing public and private rooms, 56–57
laboring class and, 250
material culture and, 298
as measure of economic development, 250
in novels, 108–9
portrait collections in, 315, 331
taste and gender influences, 44–57
Housewifery, 253
Hudson, Derek, 323
Hume, David, 202
Humphreys, David, 239
Hunter, J. Paul, 111
Huntington, Benjamin, 238
 
Implication and social imaginary, 84
Individuality and private space, 111
Industry, virtue of, 231, 247, 249
Inscriptions on portraits, 329–34, 340
Interior decoration: chimneypieces, 48, 53, 277–81, 329–30
closets, 111–12
counterpanes, 72
curtains, 72
and domestic privacy, 107
gender and, n, 267–91
Hill house and, 279–85
in novels, 108–9
Paneled walls, 46, 47–48, 52, 55
quilts, 71, 72, 74
shops and, 154–57, 185–86
Victorian, 218
wallpaper, 201–19
women and, 13–14
Inventories, 84, 85
Iron pots, 71
Isaac, Rhys, 191, 196
Isaacs, Elias, 61, 64
 
“James Wheeleys Paper Hanging Warehouse” (artist unknown), 206
Jefferson, Thomas, 232, 234, 235, 239
Jeffrey, Francis, 107
Jewelry, 303–7
Johnson, Charles, 205
Johnson, Samuel, 214
Jones, Robert, 16
Jones, Sarah, 68
 
Keir, James, 275–77, 286
Kennet, Robert, 282, 286
Kertesz, Andre, 84
Kitchens, 273
Kneller, Godrey, 323, 327, 328
Knight, Sarah Kemble, 181–82
Knox, Henry, 225, 226, 242
Kowaleski-Wallace, Elizabeth, 12, 191
 
Laboring class: domestic life, 247–63
luxuries and, 3
relationship with merchants, 182
social crisis and, 257–60
Lace, femininity of, 160, 239
Lady Caroline Fox, Baroness Holland (Ramsay), 324
Lady Frances Spencer (D’Agar), 333, 334
Lady Jane Cavendish (artist unknown), 335
Lamar, Mary, 267–86
Landlords and landladies, 64–77, 203, 204
Landowners, 248–49. See also Elite class
Langford, Paul, 309
Law: criminal, 3, 61–80, 217, 235
sumptuary, 17, 237, 308
Lee, William, 193
Lely, Peter, 331
Lemire, Beverly, 239
Lennox, Sarah, 323
Letters, 86–92, 100, 171, 201–19, 298–99
Lewis, Judith, 339
Lexicon: of aesthetics, 11, 201, 204, 205, 215, 218, 219
of color, 208–10
of patterns, 210–15
of taste, 201–19
Libraries: of ministers, 93, 96, 100
private English, 85
Lighting, 281, 299–300
Linen: curtains, 71, 73–74
laboring class and, 248, 258
quilts, 74
Linsey-woolsey, 71, 73–74, 137
Literacy, 50
Locke, John, 17
Lodging: laboring class and, 250
rented, 64–77
of servants and apprentices, 63. See also Houses
Lofts, 83
London: beau monde and, 293–313
as cultural center, 270, 286
lodging in, 272
Looking glasses, 71, 72–73
Loveday, John, 317
Luxury: British manufacturers and, 8, 286
distinction from necessity, 252
feminine quality of, 16
laboring class and, 3, 248, 258
men as purchasers of, 7, 218
middling class and, 162
as opposite of virtue, 3, 15–16, 217, 219
shopping for, 165
taste and, 14, 202
 
Machin, George, 329–31
Maclay, William, 238–39
Maddox, Isaac, 255, 256
Magazines. See Newspapers and magazines
Magistrates, 37, 84
Magnalia (Mather), 85
Mahogany: handrails, 273
looking glasses, 73
waiters, 71
Mandeville, Bernard, 3
Man of Pleasure’s Pocket Book, The, 296
Mantels. See Chimneypieces
Man Traditionally Identified as Gervase Holles (artist unknown), 326
Man Traditionally Identified as Sir Charles Cavendish (van Somer), 336
Mantua shop, 52–57
Manufacturing, 1, 8, 154, 225, 235, 248, 286
Maps, 50
Markets, 152
Martain, Sarah, 132–33
Martyn, Henry, 249
Masculinity: of closet spaces, 103
clothing and, 241–43
confinement and, 100
corrupted by British clothing, 240
economy and, 231
fashion and, 228, 229, 237, 240–43
industriousness and, 231
patrilineage and, 338
of retail space, 158–62
of rooms, 218
shopping and, 167
sociability and, 232
transatlantic comparison, 5
Mason, Simon, 253
Massie, Joseph, 250, 258
Material culture, 21–22, 293–31:3
American national consciousness and, 25, 228
changes in, 1
collaborative shopping and, 146
consumer choice and, 16
correlated to personality, 241
desire and, 180
elite class and, 135, 154
expressed through literature, 102
fashion and, 127, 290
gendered analysis of, 2–14, 187
houses and, 298
laboring class and, 249
linked to moral development, 254
London and, 286
men and, 163, 164
political power and, 238
sensus communis and, 267
slaves and, 137
of sociability, 42, 238
studies of, 2, 42
taste and, 57
transatlantic, 1, 23
Mather, Cotton, 85, 92
Matrilineal portrait displays, 327
Maverick, Jotham, 88
McInnis, Maurie, 284
McKendrick, Neil, 18, 151
McKernan, Anne, 137
Mechanick Exercises (Moxon), 98, 98
Mein, John, 86, 88
Melton, Sarah, 52–57
Memoirs of Miss Sidney Bidulph (Sheridan), 113
Men: assisted by women while shopping, 168
class identity of, 229
closeted confinement and, 103
clothing and fashion knowledge, 228
criticism of shopping habits of, 166–67
gender identity of, 229
luxury goods and, 7, 218
material culture and, 163, 164
parlor furnishings, 50
plebeian, 62
political identity of, 229
shopping and, 162–68. See also Gender
Merchants: closets used as reading space, 93–94
closets used as workspace, 98, 100
economic thought and, 248–49
importance of women customers to, 193
inventories and, 84
middle-class status of, 42, 44
relationship with customer, 182
Metalwares, 248
Meyer, Esther, 53
Middleton, Mary, 142
Middling class: beau monde and, 294–95
shopping and, 162
social crisis and, 257
Milk bars, 154
Miller, James, 272
Miller, Lewis, 189, 190
Milliner’s Shop or Splittfarthing’s the Milliner’s, A (artist unknown), 160
Ministers, 84, 87, 93, 96, 100
Mirrors, 50, 155
Moldings, 154
Montagu, Elizabeth, 284–85
Montagu, George, 163–64, 170
Montagu, Mary Wortley, 169, 329
Montagu House art collection, 331
Morality, 3, 217, 254–55
Morgan, Marjorie, 295
Moritz, Carl Philipp, 63
Morland, George, 184
Morning Ramble, or The Milliners Shop, A (artist unknown), 161
Morton, Mary Robinson, 133, 135, 145
Moxon, James, 97–98
Moxon, Joseph, 98
Mrs. Washington (Norman), 185
Muckenfuss, Henry, 131
Munster Village, The (Walker), 102
 
Nationalism, 229
Naval seamen, 63
Neatness: virtue of, 216–17
wallpaper patterns and, 214
“Negro cloth,” 137–38
Neoclassical shop screen inside Freibourg & Treyer, Tobacconists, Haymarket, London (artist unknown), 157
Neoclassical style: chimneypieces, 46, 277–79
doorways, 55
furnishings, 275
Hill house and, 273
influence of Chippendale, Seddon, and Wedgwood, 271
masculine quality of, 18
neatness of, 216
shops use of, 154
transfer from England to America, 269
wallpaper and, 214
Neo-Palladian style, 83
Newball, John, 253
Newspapers and magazines: criticism of fashion and dress, 228–29, 240–42
depiction of slaves in, 138
laboring class and, 248
as resource on style for women, 271
Newton, Isaac, 208
New Way to Secure a Majority, A (artist unknown), 152
Nobles. See Aristocracy; Elite class; Royal court
Norfolk House art collection, 331
Norman, J., 185
Norton, Mary Beth, 14
Novels. See Books
 
Observations on the Commerce of the American States (Sheffield), 19
Observations on the Present State of the Parochial and Vagrant Poor (Scott), 259
Occupations. See specific occupation
Ogee molding, 48, 55
Old Bailey (criminal court), 3, 61–80, 217
Old-clothes seller, 69
On Reading (Kertesz), 84
Ormond, Duke of, 100
Ornaments. See Dress; Interior decoration
Osnaburg, 194
Overseers, 188
Owen, Robert, 166
 
Page, Jane Frances Walker, 189
Pain, William, 272
Painted Bird Wings (Miller), 190
Palladian style, 113
houses, 273
neatness of, 216
Pamela (Richardson), 85, 88–92, 114, 119
Paneled walls, 46, 47–48, 52 55
Paper as luxury, 258
Parlor: furnishings, 50, 52–53, 282–85
locations of, 273
Parrott, Richard, 251–52, 256
Paternalism, 187
Patriarchy: art and, 315
consumer choice and, 187
myth of, 7
portraiture and, 317
Patrilineal portrait displays, 12, 327, 338
Patterns: books of, 12
language of, 210–15
wallpaper, 211–13
Patterson, Thomas, 47–48
Pawnbrokers, 68, 76–77
Peckham, Harry, 162
Pelham, Thomas, 325
Pemberton, James, 85
Penn, Ajine Allen, 270
Penningroth, Dylan, 189–91
Pepys, Samuel, 163
Pewter, 71
Philadelphia architecture, 44–57, 267
“Phillips Garden, Working Goldsmith and Jeweller” (artist unknown), 156
Piazzas, 273
Pillars: shops use of, 154
wallpaper patterns, 210
Pinckney, Eliza, 126, 135–36, 140
Pinckney, Frances, 137
Pincot, John, 217
Place, Francis, 15
Plan of the English Commerce, A (Defoe), 249–50
Plebeian consumers, 22, 62, 63. See also Laboring class
Plymley, Katharine, 9
Poets, 64
Pointon, Marcia, 315
Politics: consumer choice and, 125–49
of consumption, 231
fashion and, 300–301
material culture and, 225–63
Pollard, William, 196
Polygraphice (Salmon), 329
Pond, Arthur, 8
Pope, Alexander, 202
Porcelain, 8, 286
Porter, David, 18
Porter, Roy, 294
Portrait of Thomas Jefferson (Brown), 233
Portraits: as biographical documents, 331
collections of, 315–44
country house as location of, 317, 331
display of, 321, 329
gender of sitter and display of, 329
inscriptions on, 329–34
matrilineal displays, 327
patrilineal displays, 327
Pots, 71, 77
Potters, 53
Powel, Samuel and Elizabeth, 277
Practical House Carpenter, The (Pain), 272
Practicality, virtue of, 133
Practice of Piety (Bayley), 114
Pratt, Roger, 111
Pride and Prejudice (Austen), 283
Pride’s Exchange Broke Up, 165
Priest, Susannah, 61, 64
Priestley, Joseph, 258
Prince, Sarah, 86–92, 100, 103
Prince, Thomas, 86
Privacy: closets used for, 9, 109–22
domestic, 56–57, 107–8, 274
Progressive social thought, 248–52, 260
Promenades, 154
Prostitutes, 37, 64, 69
Proudlove, John, 97
Proxy shopping: choice and, 8, 125, 128, 142, 181
collaborative shopping and, 192, 193
defined, 170
as economic agents, 130
slaves and, 135–38, 146
taste and, 171
transatlantic, 269
Purefoy, Elizabeth, 169
 
Queen Charlotte (Ramsay), 303, 306
Quilts, 71, 72, 74
 
Race, 140–42, 145
Ramsay, Allan, 303, 306, 323, 324
Ramsden, William and Bessy, 6–7
Raven, James, 85
Reading, 84–105, 110
Reconstructed Plan of George and Martha Braithwaite’s Goldsmith’s Shop, 155
Rectors, 77
Reeve, Tapping, 142
Religion: books and, 85, 88
decorum and, 17
and devotional use of spaces, 92, 109
privacy and, no, in
virtue of simplicity and, 217
Republicanism: consumer culture and, 235, 237
fashion and, 239, 240
luxury and, 16
material culture and, 243
Retailing. See Shops
Reverend Ebenezer Devotion (Chandler), 93
Reynolds, Joshua: on dress, 15
portraits by, 8, 323
on taste, 16, 202
Ribbons, 160, 181–87
Ribeiro, Aileen, 294
“[Richard] Masefield’s . . . Manufactory in the Strand, London” (artist unknown), 207
Richardson, Samuel: books by, 85–92
correspondence with Lady Bradshaigh, 87
on importance of closets, 9
living spaces in books by, 107–22
on shopping and gender, 158–60
Robert Gwillym of Atherton with His Family (Devis), 315–16, 316
Robinson, Frederick, 15
Roche, Daniel, 308
Rooms. See specific room
Rope maker, 85
Rotch, Mary, 133
Rouquet, Jean André, 154
Royal court: beau monde and, 301–3
influence on taste, 18
Rumreil, Sarah, 128, 131
Rybczynski, Witold, 110
 
St. Giles’s Beauty, A (artist unknown), 67
Salmon, William, 329
Savile, Gertrude, 296
School, 55–57
Schumo, Barney, 53–55
Schumo, Phebe, 53–55
Scientific instruments, 163
Sconces, 299–300, 300
Scott, John, 259–60
Seddon, George, 271
Sensus communis, 267, 269, 286
Servants, 63
Sewing supplies, 194
Shackleton, Elizabeth, 9, 10
Shaftesbury, third Earl of, 16, 267
Sheffield, Earl of, 19
Shellwork, 56
Sheraton, Thomas, 216
Sheridan, Frances, 113
Shields, David, 267, 286
Shipping agent, 81
Shopkeepers: credit extension and collection, 125–27
middle-class status of, 42, 44
use of tactile engagement, 170
Shopping, 125–222
advertising and, 2, 171
agency and, 180–91
association with women, 162–68
birth of, 151
cash used for, 131, 192–95, 197
as collaborative act, 8–9, 126, 133
consumer choice and, 151–77, 181–91
creating shared tastes, 126
as diversion, 179
as endorsement of status, 140
as entertainment, 2
feminization of, 228
gender differences, 141–42, 171, 180, 193
as leisure activity, 196
pleasure of, 160–62, 270
proxy, 125–27, 170
slaves and, 135–38
social character of, 140, 157–58, 169–73, 195–97
social class and, 186
women and, 2, 3, 192–95, 197
Shops: beau monde and, 307
birth of retailing and, 151–61
consumer choice and, 151–77
consumer credit and, 8
design of, 2, 154–55, 185–86
femininity and masculinity of, 4–5, 162, 167
gender strategies of, 158–62, 171
interior decoration of, 152–62, 185–86
shop ping and, 2
strategies of shopkeepers, 153
Silk: clothing, 62
as luxury item, 286
quilts, 71, 74
waistcoats, 241
Silversmiths: American, 23, 226
as luxury, 8
women as customers of, 218
Silverware, 194–95, 251
Simon, Peter, 128, 131, 145
Simons, Ann, 130
Singleton, Mary, 130
Sir Charles Grandison (Richardson), 85, 114, 119
Skinner, William, 84–85
Slave Girl Going to Market (Glennie), 139
Slaves: consumer knowledge and, 135–38
proxy shopping by, 130, 135–38
Smith, Adam, 258
Smith, Ann, 131
Smith, Charlotte, 205, 211–13, 214
Smith, Mary, 52–57
Smith, Richard, 94, 96
Smith, Thomas and Rebecca, 81, 82
Smollett, Tobias, 3, 202
Smythson, Robert, 94, 97
Snuff, 254
Sociability: fashion and, 231, 234
houses and, 109–10
laboring class and, 247
material culture and, 238
parlor furnishings and, 50, 52–53, 282
shopping and, 157–58
shops and, 171
Social class: bias in inventories, 64, 84
closets and, 110
consumer choice and, 20, 140–42, 145, 180
decency and, 252, 256
decorum and, 215–16
divergence, 259, 260
divisions sharpened during social crisis, 257
fashion and, 294
material culture and, 127, 267–69
shopping and, 126. See also specific class
Social crisis and class hierarchy, 257–60
Social imaginary: construction of, 101
gendered, 83–84, 103
as process, 44
vernacular strategies, 84
Social networks: beau monde and, 295
confirmed through dress, 307
as restraint on excess, 170–71
taste and, 169, 284–85
Social theory versus social imaginary, 84
Soldiers, 63
Somerset, Elizabeth Berkeley, 9
Spaces: country homes and, 315
gendered, 10–11, 103, 109–22
portrait displays and, 329
as possessions, 119
private and public space, 56–57, 107, no, 114, 274
for reading and writing, 91, 102, 103
Spencer, Charles, 320
Spencer, George, 320
Spoons, 71
Stairs, 46, 273
Stand Coachman, or the Haughty Lady Well Fitted (artist unknown), 153
Staves, Susan, 339
Stith, Richard, 185, 186
Stoddard, Anthony, 81, 83, 100
Stuart, James, 284–85
Stuart, Louisa, 307
Style. See Fashion
Sugar, 194, 258
Sumptuary laws, 17, 237, 308
Supplemental Magazine, The (artist unknown), 165
Supposition and social imaginary, 84
Swift, Jonathan, 163
 
Tables, 37, 50
Tadmor, Naomi, 90, 110
Taste, 14–21
American, 19, 25
attempts to define, 43
color choice and, 209–10
consumer choice and development of, 18, 20, 133–35
as criteria for economic hierarchy, 252, 269
display of, 274–75
fashion and, 294
gendered analysis of, 2–14
influence on architecture of houses, 44–57
language of, 201–19
luxury and, 14, 202
material culture and, 57
perspective on, 42
power and, 19
as process, 57
as product of collaborative shopping, 145, 169–73
proxy shoppers as arbiters of, 171, 267
slaves and, 136
social class and, 15, 16, 260
social networks impact on, 170–71
transatlantic transfer of, 284
wallpaper and, 201–22
women and, 168
Tawdry, Jone: consumer choice and, 187
relationship with merchants, 181, 182
Taylor, Charles, 44, 83–84
Tea: fashion of, 253
feminine quality of, 12
laboring class and, 249, 254, 256, 258
popularity of, 20, 194
taxation of, 253
Teachers, 55–57
Teakettles, 71, 72, 75, 76
Temple, William, 256–57
Tenants, 64–77
Textiles: bed coverings, 74–75
curtains, 73–74
manufacturers, 237–38
men’s purchases of, 194
shopping for, 128
similarities to wallpaper, 218
women’s purchases of, 194–95, 197. See also specific types
Theaters, 154
Thomas Hooker House, Hartford (Barber), 94
Thomas Wentworth, Earl of Strafford (Van Dyck), 332
Thoughts on Religion (Edwards), 85
Thrift, virtue of, 166
Thynne, Mary, 303–5
Tillyard, Stella, 323
Tin, 71
Tisdale, Sarah, 191
Tobacco, 254
Tories, 255
Trade. See Commerce
Trade cards, 156, 206–7
Travel, social, 196
Trollope and Sons, 201–19
Tryon, Thomas, 249
Tucker, Joseph, 250
Tucker, Josiah, 255, 256, 259–60
Tunstall, Len, 196
Turner, 53–55
Turner, Thomas and Peggy, 90
Turrell, Ebenezer, 101–2
 
Ulrich, Laurel, 13, 24, 191
Upholsterers, 283
Upton, Dell, 44
 
Valentines Day, The Fairing (Morland), 183, 184
Vanbrugh, John, 110
Vanderlint, Jacob, 250, 259–60
Van Dyck, Anthony, 331, 332
Vanrhyn, Ann Eleanor, 125–27
van Somer, Paul, 336
Veblen, Thorstein, 18
Velvet, 226, 235
Vernacular legitimacy, 103
Vertue, George, 327
Vesey, Denmark, 127
Vesey, Elizabeth, 285
Vicar of Wakefield, The (Goldsmith), 85, 101
Victorian style, 17, 218
Vindication of Commerce and the Arts, A (Temple), 256–57
 
Wadsworth, Jeremiah, 226, 241–42
Wahrman, Dror, 18
Waistcoats, 61, 163, 241
Waiters, 71
Walker, Mary, 102
Wallpaper: cost of, 203
dressing rooms and, 11
gender and, 204, 217–18
history of, 202–3
neatness of, 214, 216
as reinforcer of social hierarchies, 216
taste and, 201–22
women as purchasers of, 218
Walnut, 73
Walpole, Horace: on
Cavendish portrait collection, 13, 324–25, 337
on Fox, 323
on jewelry, 303
proxy shopping by, 170, 171
on shopping, 163–64
shopping and, 168
wallpaper and, 204
Walton, Sam, 179, 196
Ware, Isaac, 10, 216
Warren, Joseph, 102
Washington, George, 225–28, 235, 239, 241–42
Washington, Martha, 183, 185, 225
Watt, Ian, 88, 107, 108
Weatherglass, 50
Weavers, 74
Webb, Joseph, 81
Webb, Parthenia, 70
Webster, William, 91, 92
Wedgwood, Josiah, 18, 154, 271
Weekes, Rebecca, 55–57
Weeton, Ellen, 13
Welbeck Abbey, 13, 324–40, 325
Weld, Isaac, 19
Wentworth, Anne (Countess of Strafford), 297–303
Wentworth, Thomas, 297, 298
Wesley, John, 217
West, Benjamin, 272
West, Shearer, 315
Wetenhall, Edward, 112
Wheeley, James, 206, 208
Whigs, 232, 248
Whitall, Ann Cooper, 183
White, Sarah, 68
White, William and Mary, 277
Wilson, Benjamin, 317, 318, 319
Windows. See Doors and windows
Wine merchants, 270
Wirt, Elizabeth, 188
Wirt, William, 188
Wolff, Cynthia Griffin, 88, 117
Women: alcohol consumption by, 254–55
assistance to men while shopping, 168
cash economy of, 194–95
closeted confinement and, 103
commercial importance, 192
confinement of closets as haven, 91
consumer choice and, 187–91, 197
consumer credit and, 130
credit use, 131
criticism of shopping habits of, 164–66
decency and, 254
domestic economy and, 187–91
fashion and, 168, 243
friendships, 90
group travel of, 196
interior decoration and, 13–14
laboring class and, 62, 253–57
as landlords, 70
literacy and, no, in
material culture and, 2
novels and, 92, 101
pattern books and, 12, 272
piety and, 101
portrait displays and, 321
as purchasers of textiles and clothing, 194, 195
role as consumers, 142, 180
shopping and, 162–68, 180
taste and, 16, 18
as tenants, 69
wallpaper and, 218. See also Gender
Woodforde, James, 4
Wool: curtains, 71
laboring class and, 248
manufacturing of, 226
quilts, 74
Working class. See Laboring class
Worsted curtains, 71, 73–74
Writing, furnishings and spaces for, no, in
 
Yew Tree Farm, 97
Young, Arthur, 258